installing head gasket

[CB]

Yesterday I changed the fork oil in my KLR. When I reinstalled the drain screws, I only tightened them very lightly as I was afraid of stripping them. Today I found some slight seepage around the drain screws. So I tried to lightly, carefully tightened them a bit more. Unfortunately the screw head popped off one of the screws. I had maybe 2 to 4 lbs of torque on the screw -- it never felt like it even seated solidly. My questions for the group are: Is this common? Should I expect the screws to seat solidly? Are there any tricks people use to keep the screws from leaking without worrying about breaking or stripping them? Thanks, Clark

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 18:11:26 -0700 CB writes:

> > Yesterday I changed the fork oil in my KLR. When I reinstalled the > > drain screws, I only tightened them very lightly as I was afraid of > > stripping them. Today I found some slight seepage around the drain > > screws. So I tried to lightly, carefully tightened them a bit more. > > Unfortunately the screw head popped off one of the screws. I had > maybe 2 to 4 lbs of torque on the screw -- it never felt like it > even > seated solidly. > > My questions for the group are: > > Is this common? > > Should I expect the screws to seat solidly? > > Are there any tricks people use to keep the screws from leaking > without worrying about breaking or stripping them? > > Thanks, Clark

<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Clark, That's a bummer of a story. I don't know if the bolt head popping off is common but the fasteners are know to be of questionable quality. I replaced my fork drain screws with sockethead bolts I got at a local hardware store. I think you should expect the screws to seat solidly. At least solidly enough that fluid doesn't leak. If you haven't been able to remove the broken screw may I suggest you consider very carefully using a very small left handed drill bit. And make sure you drill on center and on line with the screw body. The drill bit can probably be bought at any good hardware store. Make sure it's so small you won't touch the threads when drilling. And also remember to put the drill in reverse. I'm guessing the broken part will back out very easily. Good luck and best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Ross Lindberg]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote:

> > On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 18:11:26 -0700 CB writes: > > > > Yesterday I changed the fork oil in my KLR. When I reinstalled

the

> > > > drain screws, I only tightened them very lightly as I was afraid

of

> > > > stripping them. Today I found some slight seepage around the

drain

> > > > screws. So I tried to lightly, carefully tightened them a bit

more.

> > > > Unfortunately the screw head popped off one of the screws. I

had

> > maybe 2 to 4 lbs of torque on the screw -- it never felt like it > > even > > seated solidly. > > > > My questions for the group are: > > > > Is this common? > > > > Should I expect the screws to seat solidly? > > > > Are there any tricks people use to keep the screws from leaking > > without worrying about breaking or stripping them? > > > > Thanks, Clark > <><><><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><><><> > > Clark, > > That's a bummer of a story. I don't know if the bolt head popping

off is

> common but the fasteners are know to be of questionable quality. I > replaced my fork drain screws with sockethead bolts I got at a local > hardware store. > > I think you should expect the screws to seat solidly. At least

solidly

> enough that fluid doesn't leak. > > If you haven't been able to remove the broken screw may I suggest

you

> consider very carefully using a very small left handed drill bit.

And

> make sure you drill on center and on line with the screw body. The

drill

> bit can probably be bought at any good hardware store. Make sure

it's so

> small you won't touch the threads when drilling. And also remember

to

> put the drill in reverse. I'm guessing the broken part will back

out

> very easily. > > Good luck and best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

A very good suggestion by Jeff. Make sure you center-punch the screw first to make sure the drill bit starts in the center. I have a set of left-hand drills and extractors that cost about 50 bucks at the auto parts store. Sometimes I get lucky and the drill backs the screw out without having to use the extractors. Ross Lindberg Back in CA for 2 months. At least I saw a KLR this morning

>

[GMac999]

One other thing about the factory screws. They have a plastic washer under them. Mine were missing compliments of the DPO. Once I replaced them, and the screws too, they haven't weeped any. Of course the fork seals are a different story. GregM -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ross Lindberg Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:50 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Fork Oil Drain Screw

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 18:11:26 -0700 CB writes: > > > > Yesterday I changed the fork oil in my KLR. When I reinstalled the > > > > drain screws, I only tightened them very lightly as I was afraid of > > > > stripping them. Today I found some slight seepage around the drain > > > > screws. So I tried to lightly, carefully tightened them a bit more. > > > > Unfortunately the screw head popped off one of the screws. I had > > maybe 2 to 4 lbs of torque on the screw -- it never felt like it > > even seated solidly. > > > > My questions for the group are: > > > > Is this common? > > > > Should I expect the screws to seat solidly? > > > > Are there any tricks people use to keep the screws from leaking > > without worrying about breaking or stripping them? > > > > Thanks, Clark > <><><><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><><><> > > Clark, > > That's a bummer of a story. I don't know if the bolt head popping off is > common but the fasteners are know to be of questionable quality. I > replaced my fork drain screws with sockethead bolts I got at a local > hardware store. > > I think you should expect the screws to seat solidly. At least solidly > enough that fluid doesn't leak. > > If you haven't been able to remove the broken screw may I suggest you > consider very carefully using a very small left handed drill bit. And > make sure you drill on center and on line with the screw body. The drill > bit can probably be bought at any good hardware store. Make sure it's so > small you won't touch the threads when drilling. And also remember to > put the drill in reverse. I'm guessing the broken part will back out > very easily. > > Good luck and best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT A very good suggestion by Jeff. Make sure you center-punch the screw first to make sure the drill bit starts in the center. I have a set of left-hand drills and extractors that cost about 50 bucks at the auto parts store. Sometimes I get lucky and the drill backs the screw out without having to use the extractors. Ross Lindberg Back in CA for 2 months. At least I saw a KLR this morning > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links ____________________________________________________________________________________ Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit. http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097

[geobas]

I don't know how to get the broken screw out but on my BMW's I always used a soft copper washer as a protection against leaks. I had a couple left over to use on my KLR when I changed the fluid. George Escondido, CA Ross Lindberg wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , Jeff Saline wrote: > > > > On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 18:11:26 -0700 CB writes: > > > > > > Yesterday I changed the fork oil in my KLR. When I reinstalled > the > > > > > > drain screws, I only tightened them very lightly as I was afraid > of > > > > > > stripping them. Today I found some slight seepage around the > drain > > > > > > screws. So I tried to lightly, carefully tightened them a bit > more. > > > > > > Unfortunately the screw head popped off one of the screws. I > had > > > maybe 2 to 4 lbs of torque on the screw -- it never felt like it > > > even > > > seated solidly. > > > > > > My questions for the group are: > > > > > > Is this common? > > > > > > Should I expect the screws to seat solidly? > > > > > > Are there any tricks people use to keep the screws from leaking > > > without worrying about breaking or stripping them? > > > > > > Thanks, Clark > > <><><><><><><><><> > > <><><><><><><><><> > > > > Clark, > > > > That's a bummer of a story. I don't know if the bolt head popping > off is > > common but the fasteners are know to be of questionable quality. I > > replaced my fork drain screws with sockethead bolts I got at a local > > hardware store. > > > > I think you should expect the screws to seat solidly. At least > solidly > > enough that fluid doesn't leak. > > > > If you haven't been able to remove the broken screw may I suggest > you > > consider very carefully using a very small left handed drill bit. > And > > make sure you drill on center and on line with the screw body. The > drill > > bit can probably be bought at any good hardware store. Make sure > it's so > > small you won't touch the threads when drilling. And also remember > to > > put the drill in reverse. I'm guessing the broken part will back > out > > very easily. > > > > Good luck and best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > A very good suggestion by Jeff. Make sure you center-punch the screw > first to make sure the drill bit starts in the center. I have a set > of left-hand drills and extractors that cost about 50 bucks at the > auto parts store. Sometimes I get lucky and the drill backs the > screw out without having to use the extractors. > > Ross Lindberg > Back in CA for 2 months. > At least I saw a KLR this morning > > > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Wed, Mar 14, 2007 at 06:11:26PM -0700, CB wrote:

> > Are there any tricks people use to keep the screws from leaking > without worrying about breaking or stripping them?

The factory screws are junk. If they salt the roads where you live, and you ride year-round, you're very lucky you could remove them at all without twisting the heads off or stripping them. Go to Sears and get the Craftsman micro-extractor kit, the one where each extractor has a tiny drill bit on one end and a tiny EZ-Out on the other end. These will reliably remove the fork drain screws and you can start with the smallest size then work up if you are worried about damaging the soft aluminum around the (soft crappy) steel screw. I replaced my drain screws with stainless so they would not corrode in place causing this to happen again. And I used a little, little bit of anti-seize up near the head where I was pretty sure it could not get washed into the fork oil.

[CB]

Nope, I had it in place. The screw is apparently made out of some kind of stamped cheese. It looks like I may have a happy ending to my story though. Using a Dremel, a tiny drill bit and and equally tiny extractor, the screw came right out. Looks like no thread damage from my efforts. (WooHoo!) I'll replace both screws, refill the oil and hopefully go on my happy way for a while.. Thanks to all for the suggestions. Clark

On Mar 15, 2007, at 7:09 AM, Ronald Criswell wrote: > I believe there is a little rubber seal that you might have left > off or misplaced. > > Criswell > On Mar 14, 2007, at 8:11 PM, CB wrote: > >

[dooden]

I also feared that they might be of the compressed oatmeal design and of course overtorqued at the factory. Removing mine I used a hand held hammer activated impact with a phillips socket on the end. Figured if they were stuck using this impact with a light tap would not only keep from striping the head, also assist in breaking them free. Made sure both had the little seals/gasket thingys on them before closing up of course. Hint: Do not use compressed air on the valves to speed the draining process up , unless your in your gravel driveway and are looking for some dust control. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, CB wrote: > > Nope, I had it in place. The screw is apparently made out of some > kind of stamped cheese. > > It looks like I may have a happy ending to my story though. Using a > Dremel, a tiny drill bit and and equally tiny extractor, the screw > came right out. Looks like no thread damage from my efforts. > (WooHoo!) > > I'll replace both screws, refill the oil and hopefully go on my happy > way for a while.. > > Thanks to all for the suggestions. > > Clark > On Mar 15, 2007, at 7:09 AM, Ronald Criswell wrote: > > > I believe there is a little rubber seal that you might have left > > off or misplaced. > > > > Criswell > > On Mar 14, 2007, at 8:11 PM, CB wrote: > > > > >

[kestrelfal]

Did more searching. Elastomer-coated gasket; provides better sealing. http://www.cometic.com/est.aspx http://www.dupontelastomers.com/Applications/Automotive/head.asp Fred --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "hunter_chevy" wrote:

> > I'm in final stages of putting my motor back togehter after the > cranshaft bearing decided to eat itself. When I pulled the head > gasket off, I found KHI had installed it with black rtv on both > sides. I have never seen this on a head gasket, and wanted to get > other opinions on this. Should I use gasket sealer on the head gasket > or not. > > Also, just wanted to give props to Mark for selling me the head gasket > and shipping it quickly and packaged extremely well. Thanks Mark! > > > Hunter > A17 - on the mend > '83 V45 Interceptor > > Marion, NY >