permanent magnet alternator

[Norm Keller]

Some may recall my question regarding results of an attempt to reduce the voltage drop between the regulator/rectifier output (white wire) and the battery. At full output measured in the output wire from the regulator/rectifier at 13.9 volts and dash voltmeter reading just over 13 volts, there was 0.7 volts drop between the output terminal of the regulator/rectifier and the battery positive. "Aha!", I thought, "Here's an opportunity to reduce the voltage drop which should increase the charging system output. A 12 gauge wire was soldered in parallel with the output wire and connected to the battery side of the starter relay. (Effectively to the battery positive) On retest there was zero voltage drop but the alternator output remained at 13.0 amps and dash voltmeter at just over 13 volts. I was mystified for some time but a call to an old buddy who teaches power generation clarified the issue. I should have explained the effect on my own as I am quite aware of the current output, self limiting characteristics of alternators but as with all things which one is not using frequently..... The reason is that the KLR alternator is capable of 13.9 amps at which point the counter induction of the stator begins to reduce the magnetic field strength of the armature so much that the output current falls off. This I knew but wasn't bringing into the question. This effect is the reason that automotive alternators utilize a single element regulator which limits voltage rather than requiring a two element regulator to limit both voltage and current as is the case of DC generators. (DC generators also use a third element to prevent reverse current because they don't use diodes but that's not pertinent) What I did not know is that the regulator is likely designed to take this into effect such that the designers likely used fairly light wire between the regulator and battery knowing that some voltage drop would have no effect on current delivery. The risk I take in reducing the voltage drop between regulator and battery is that they may have taken this voltage drop into account as an assistance to regulating voltage. Removing the effect of the lighter wire could have a detrimental effect on the regulator life so I will remove the heavy wire. Note that this has nothing to do with reducing voltage drop to other loads on the bike by use of relays. Klaus & I have been talking about this problem and came to the conclusion that this effect was not an Ohm's Law problem but were stopped at that point. Thanks for your help, Klaus. Drop by and I'll by the coffee. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[cvetterdesigner]

This is my first experience on a Yahoo Group. I am impressed at the intelligence and quality of information you have passed on to me. One member commented that it was nice to be included in the design process. I guess this is exactly what is happening. From time to time, I will post pictures and comments on: www.craigvetter.com A lot of work and refinement needs to be done before I have something to sell. This is a labor of love. Test rides... well, somebody has to do it. I'm glad it is me. I will be here to answer questions and hope that you will have answers to questions I have. You, as fellow KLR owners know what works and what does not. Already I have learned which lights should be used, which fender, and potential problems in cooling. You guys are great. Thanks for being a part of the design process. Craig Vetter Designer

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cvetterdesigner" wrote:

> > This is my first experience on a Yahoo Group. I am impressed at

the intelligence and quality

> of information you have passed on to me. One member commented that

it was nice to be

> included in the design process. I guess this is exactly what is

happening.

> From time to time, I will post pictures and comments on: > > www.craigvetter.com > > A lot of work and refinement needs to be done before I have

something to sell. This is a

> labor of love. Test rides... well, somebody has to do it. I'm

glad it is me.

> > I will be here to answer questions and hope that you will have

answers to questions I have.

> You, as fellow KLR owners know what works and what does not.

Already I have learned which

> lights should be used, which fender, and potential problems in

cooling. You guys are great.

> > Thanks for being a part of the design process. > > Craig Vetter > Designer >

Hi Craig, If you need the faring 'side-load-tested', that is, how well will it fare in the horizontal position while doing the flop and drop, rider ejection drills. There are at least 4 (maybe as many as 8), fully- experienced folks that in the previous 12 months that have seriously side load tested their KLR's--generally breaking bones and such, with various amount of damage done to self and the KLR. You know the type: Folks not afraid to ride their bikes in remote places and break stuff. That sort of thing. Thought I would offer--should you need some folks with various- adverse-experiences to field test the final prototype. Most likely, they can be trusted to fully meet the operational test specs. revmaaatin. who is one of those 8 bone breakers---although negligible damage to the bike