caliper pins nklr

[ryanojerio]

Hey all, I got a battery tender and new batter the other day and I want to hook up the leads so I can just plug in the tender with out messing with the seat. I read that the electrical system is a negative ground system so the negative wire should be connected to the chassis. There is a convenient bolt on the frame about an inch behind the seat bolt that looks like a good spot to attach the black lead. I used some sandpaper to remove the paint around the bolt hole to bare metal. Am I good to go? Thanks, Mr. Electricity challenged

[Jeff Saline]

On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 19:32:20 -0000 "ryanojerio" writes:

> Hey all, > > I got a battery tender and new batter the other day and I want to > hook > up the leads so I can just plug in the tender with out messing with > the seat. I read that the electrical system is a negative ground > system so the negative wire should be connected to the chassis. > There > is a convenient bolt on the frame about an inch behind the seat > bolt > that looks like a good spot to attach the black lead. I used some > sandpaper to remove the paint around the bolt hole to bare metal. > Am > I good to go? > > Thanks, Mr. Electricity challenged

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Mr. Electricity challenged I'd say you've got it covered electrically. But if that bolt is for the subframe I suggest you reconsider using it. The subframe requires firm clamping from the fasteners and I think adding the soft metal eyelet of the electrical connector to this clamping force would be less than ideal. You could always just connect the negative wire to the battery negative terminal and not worry about it. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Erik]

> Mr. Electricity challenged > > I'd say you've got it covered electrically. But if that bolt is for the > subframe I suggest you reconsider using it. The subframe requires firm > clamping from the fasteners and I think adding the soft metal eyelet of > the electrical connector to this clamping force would be less than ideal. > > You could always just connect the negative wire to the battery negative > terminal and not worry about it.

That's what I did. Works perfectly. erik

[dooden]

That'll work... myself I went direct to the battery, but either way works when grounding. In fact I picked up extra 2-Way connectors (like 4-Way flat) locally since the size/pins were the same as the Tender and added to my lawn tractor and 4 Wheeler. Heck even took my small 1 amp charger, cut the leads and wired a 2 way connector on it so now I can mix and match to whatever I feel like doing. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "ryanojerio" wrote: > > Hey all, > > I got a battery tender and new batter the other day and I want to hook > up the leads so I can just plug in the tender with out messing with > the seat. I read that the electrical system is a negative ground > system so the negative wire should be connected to the chassis. There > is a convenient bolt on the frame about an inch behind the seat bolt > that looks like a good spot to attach the black lead. I used some > sandpaper to remove the paint around the bolt hole to bare metal. Am > I good to go? > > Thanks, Mr. Electricity challenged >

[J Fortner]

Connect the positive lug to + on the battery and the negative to the - on the battery. Run pigtail out the left side and attach with zip ties to the frame downtube. Done

On 2/3/07, ryanojerio wrote: > > Hey all, > > I got a battery tender and new batter the other day and I want to hook > up the leads so I can just plug in the tender with out messing with > the seat. I read that the electrical system is a negative ground > system so the negative wire should be connected to the chassis. There > is a convenient bolt on the frame about an inch behind the seat bolt > that looks like a good spot to attach the black lead. I used some > sandpaper to remove the paint around the bolt hole to bare metal. Am > I good to go? > > Thanks, Mr. Electricity challenged > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

You may wish to connect the positive to the battery cable side of the starter relay (starter solenoid which is behind the side stand safety switch cover) because this avoids the potential of corrosion at the battery connection and also avoids having to deal with the connection when the battery is being removed for service and replacement. As a general rule it is best to avoid making connections directly to a battery other than to connect the main cables which cannot be avoided. Just my $0.02 after 45+ years of battery service, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[J. Christopher Krok]

> 1. Re: Sendin' out some love NKLR > Posted by: "revmaaatin" mjearl@... revmaaatin > Date: Sat Feb 3, 2007 9:05 am ((PST)) > Dr. K and 'Z' > How does one lose a caliper slider pin without losing other > associated hardware? Perhaps you could add some addtional background > information.

Z and I have KLX front ends on our bikes... The KLX uses a two-piston caliper that was common on a lot of dirt bikes from that period, and the pads are retained by the lower slide pin, which is a bit different than the small one in the KLR's front caliper. This one isn't retained by a hairlcip, but threads in, and provides more anchoring for the force on the pads than does the KLR setup. If it comes out, there's basically nothing holding the pads in on the bottom, and they can work their way out. I'm going to safety wire it, which would be the equivalent of the retaining clip on the KLR unit. Cheers, Krokko -- J. Christopher Krok, Ph.D. Big Cee Engineering KLR650 Accessories and home of the FAQ