baha

[Don S]

With regard to your comment about rebuilding the engine on the trail. For some reason it made me think of the two guys on this list that are probably capable of doing it. Imagine that Norm Keller and Jeff Saline had a collision on a trail in the middle of nowhere resulting in irreparable wheel damage to one bike. What would be the result? I picture them screaming out of the boonies riding double on a twin engined KLR rocket with the frame extended to hold the engines and all of it held together with copious amounts of JB Weld and tie wraps. Way too much coffee this morning! Best of the season to everyone. Don Dennis Shell wrote: My idea about the tools are traveling tools. I would assume that if you were about to spend a week or so traveling around in the back country, Before you left most of the standard maintenance issues would be addressed, like valves, swing arm lubed etc.. The things that you might encounter on the trail like carb problems, broken chain, broken cables, flat tires. Those are the type of problems that I would like to build a tool bag to deal with. So, what I'm trying to get from everyone is the most common problems and the tools required to fix them. I really doubt that if you grenade your engine on the trail you'll try to rebuild it there. Take care, Dennis

----- Original Message ----- From: "Luke in Brooklyn" To: "Dennis Shell" ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 7:59 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re:NKLR tool bag rolls > Hey Dennis-- > I once had the idea of finding a secure spot for all > my tools (more secure than the tube thing on the bash > plate). I was trying to trim down to the point that, > with tubes in a fender bag, I'd have nothing strapped > to the rack at all. I figured out that a pelican 1120 > case (www.pelican.com or www.bhphoto.com) will *just* > fit in the space on the left of the bike where the > muffler isn't (this is on my bike with HT SU racks, > which limit space but provide protection from sideways > impacts). There's already a secure mounting tab there > from the smog crap, but I wanted to make a bracket > that would allow me to easily remove the entire box > towards the wheel (so it's accessible even with > aluminum boxes bolted on). At the time I didn't have > access to a welder; now that I do have access I've > gotten over the pelican idea. I did buy the pelican > 1120 and used it as a toolbox on the bike for a couple > years--it'll *just* hold the tools I carry, including > tire irons but not including the tubes or pump. I > don't have a precise list of what it is I carry handy, > but it's everything I normally use on the bike-- the > only thing's I ever need from the regular tool kit are > jumbo sockets for removing the swingarm and > countershaft nut and the feeler gauges for doing the > valves. Everything else I've ever needed fits in that > case. Working out of a case like that sucks compared > to the tool roll, though. > > I'm really happy with my new tool roll and have blown > off the idea of building a home for the tools, but I'd > be interested to see what you come up with. > > -Luke > > --- Dennis Shell wrote: > >> HI Norm, I'm in Colorado, NE of Colorado Springs. My >> idea is not completely altruistic, some of the guys >> on this list have done some serious traveling with >> their KLRs and I'm sure they have weeded out any >> unneeded tools. So, I'm willing to build these bags >> to help me out with my traveling tools. I think I >> can build something that will support all the tools, >> including tire irons, air pump, etc.. that will roll >> up and attach to the bike somewhere that is >> accessable even if the bike is loaded. Have a great >> holiday season, Dennis > > 92 CB750 nighthawk--naked simpleton > 03 KLR650--fat girl with a dirty mind > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

Dennis, excellent thread for the time of year. I carry a set of combination wrenches to fit the body fasteners, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14 plus a high quality 8" adjustable wrench for the axle nuts and a second wrench. A set of common 1/4" drive sockets with a driver which hinges to act as a breaker bar or nut driver. A 5 inch long nose Vise Grip. Screwdriver. Wrap-ties, jumper cables which are commercially made professionals made from 12 gauge wire with rubber insulation. These jumpers will also function well for temporary wiring since the rubber cover is much more abrasion and cut resistant than plastic wire. Two part epoxy, 6 inch file......what else..... Plastic electrical tape, heat shrink.....too lazy to open up my kit for now but will make time later. All tools are bunched together with heavy elastic bands made from sections of old inner tube. The issue of tool kit and storage is one which is high on the list for resolution before the longer trips start in the spring. For road trips the carry bag in the Givi trunk is very satisfactory but for off-road the weight high up is a bad thing. IN addition, I want to be able to leave the trunk off without having to bungee the carry bag to the rear rack. A heavy carry bag full of expensive tools is not a good thing on the rack. Some thoughts for possible consideration: 1) Tools banded together or stored in tool roll pockets are better protected from wear due to rubbing and pounding. 2) Carry top quality tools and leave the cheapies at home. Back in the bush with only one tool at hand is not the time to round a fastener or break a tool. 3) Revisit the advice regarding tools which really need to be carried. An operation such as valve adjustment is not an in-bush problem. 4) Don't forget to carry a farmer's oil can. Use the bike's oil sump for that bit of oil rather than trying to carry an oil bottle. This is even easier if the engine has a dip stick. Good thread, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

>Hey Norm. >Have you thought of attaching the tool >compartment to the wheel side of the pannier >exterior? That way, you can pop off the >pannier, lay it down and your tool box will be >readily available on the back side of the >pannier. >It would however add weight to the pannier and >one would have to ensure the side of the >pannier is reinforced to handle it. >Don

I'll think about this again, Don but didn't see this as an option because I usually run without the panniers. Trips to the cottage usually mean throwing the panniers on for the trip and them leaving them in the cottage for trail rides. Adding even 5 minutes for moving the tool carrier off the pannier would get old very quickly. If it weren't for this odd sort of practice the option of attaching to the inside of the pannier would be ideal for me. It would likely be the best option for most people. If properly done, IMO the HT pannier would be more than capable as they are really high quality units. I sprang for the big buck HT units because of their reputation. Having a rack or pannier failure on the back of beyond would make the cost seem cheap! Even constantly thinking of the eventuality would spoil many rides. I may be paranoid but it should be recognized that most of my life has been spent in addressing failures which never should have happened. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

>Imagine that Norm Keller and Jeff Saline had a >collision on a trail in the middle of nowhere >resulting in irreparable wheel damage to one >bike. >What would be the result? >I picture them screaming out of the boonies >riding double on a twin engined KLR rocket

As long as I get to drive........ (VBG) Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

Someone suggested that a tool tube might be attached vertically to the right fork tube and wondered about the effects. IMO there are several problems inherent: 1) A big increase in unsprung weight which is very, very bad news on rough surfaces. It works well on an Earl's fork such as Honda 90 Trails and the like. 2) The weight would be asymmetrical so would cause vertical and horizontal fork deflection on impacts. 3) Shock loading to the tool tube would be very high. 4) Pounding applied to the end would (IMO) far exceed the tensional yield of the PVC tube cap. I really appreciate the brainstorming which takes place among this group. The best brainstorming practices require that all idea be brought forward and that all ideas be treated as valid while being re-examined thoroughly. It is simply amazing how may solutions come out of previously discarded concepts which either lead to other thinking or are now found to be feasible because of new advances. In the midst of trying to determine the alloy and decide on the most practical means of repairing a condenser tube failure my Dad pulled me back to reality with, "Why not use a 3/16" compression union?". You might be 86, Dad but I'm still finding out how much smarter you are.... Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Matt Knowles]

On Dec 23, 2006, at 11:39 AM, Norm Keller wrote:

> Someone suggested that a tool tube might be attached vertically to the > right fork tube and wondered about the effects.

With all this talk of tool tubes and tool rolls, I figured I would mention what seems to work well for me. I mounted a 3" ABS tube so it rests just above the bash plate. This gets it out of the way for most impact. It also doesn't impede much airflow there. I figure if I hit something hard or high enough to damage it sitting there, I'm probably going to have a bigger problem than just losing my tools. The ends protruded just enough that I also figured they'd help act as light weight nerf bars. The tools themselves were put into a stuff sack, although a tool roll might be more convenient as long as it had some way of fully enclosing the tools. The stuff sack made it easy to retrieve the whole tool set from the tube, as well as putting everything back in. I have the opening for the tool tube on the left side, so it's easy to slide everything out. The tool set I took pretty much took up the 3" diameter, and to fill out the length so it wouldn't rattle around, I stuffed a shop rag in after the tool duffle. Even if somehow I did manage to break the ABS, I would just have to locate one sack of tools. Given the weight of the tools, centering that mass with the motor seems to be a good place to put them. Also seems to be a conversation starter when people see a big ugly piece of ABS strapped to the front. Matt Knowles - Ferndale, CA - http://www.knowlesville.com/matt/motorcycles '99 Sprint ST - for going fast and far (2CZUSA) '01 KLR650 (A15) - for exploring the North Coast backroads '97 KLX300 & '01 Lakota - for playing in the dirt '79 KZ400 - just because it was the first vehicle I ever owned

[Don S]

That's pretty much how I would have envisioned it Norm. You driving with Jeff perched behind with his back to yours so that he could observe and monitor various aspects of your ingenuity. I imagined that he'd have some kind of hand held makeshift auto-oiler (similar to an intravenous unit) to keep the chain well lubed while the two engines in tandem were shredding the rear tire. All the while keeping an eye on his GPS to ensure you were driving to get yourselves out of the boonies rather than you taking yourselves on a berserk joy ride. Don Norm Keller wrote:

>Imagine that Norm Keller and Jeff Saline had a >collision on a trail in the middle of nowhere >resulting in irreparable wheel damage to one >bike. >What would be the result? >I picture them screaming out of the boonies >riding double on a twin engined KLR rocket

As long as I get to drive........ (VBG) Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

>Also seems to be a conversation starter >when people see a big ugly piece of ABS >strapped to the front. >Matt Knowles - Ferndale, CA -

I point out that the bike is a dual sport, then tell them it's for the sewer tank drain hose and ask how else I'm supposed to drain the tank....... Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Dennis Shell]

Norm, Thank you for your list of tools, Joe Treen also sent his tool list but the computer wouldn't let me respond to him, so if you're reading this Joe, Thanks. Norm, I was considering a pocket for electrical problems like fuses, elec. tape, splices (?). I was wondering about jumpers, 1 or 2 for by-passing a safety switch if needed, recomended lengths and type of ends? Also you had both elec. tape and heat shrink listed, reasons for both? Depending on final size, I think I can make the bag attach between the underside of the rear rack and above the tail light. Any reasons why I shouldn't go that route? Thanks again for all your input, Dennis

----- Original Message ----- From: Norm Keller To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 12:15 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: NKLR tool bag rolls Dennis, excellent thread for the time of year. I carry a set of combination wrenches to fit the body fasteners, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14 plus a high quality 8" adjustable wrench for the axle nuts and a second wrench. A set of common 1/4" drive sockets with a driver which hinges to act as a breaker bar or nut driver. A 5 inch long nose Vise Grip. Screwdriver. Wrap-ties, jumper cables which are commercially made professionals made from 12 gauge wire with rubber insulation. These jumpers will also function well for temporary wiring since the rubber cover is much more abrasion and cut resistant than plastic wire. Two part epoxy, 6 inch file......what else..... Plastic electrical tape, heat shrink.....too lazy to open up my kit for now but will make time later. All tools are bunched together with heavy elastic bands made from sections of old inner tube. The issue of tool kit and storage is one which is high on the list for resolution before the longer trips start in the spring. For road trips the carry bag in the Givi trunk is very satisfactory but for off-road the weight high up is a bad thing. IN addition, I want to be able to leave the trunk off without having to bungee the carry bag to the rear rack. A heavy carry bag full of expensive tools is not a good thing on the rack. Some thoughts for possible consideration: 1) Tools banded together or stored in tool roll pockets are better protected from wear due to rubbing and pounding. 2) Carry top quality tools and leave the cheapies at home. Back in the bush with only one tool at hand is not the time to round a fastener or break a tool. 3) Revisit the advice regarding tools which really need to be carried. An operation such as valve adjustment is not an in-bush problem. 4) Don't forget to carry a farmer's oil can. Use the bike's oil sump for that bit of oil rather than trying to carry an oil bottle. This is even easier if the engine has a dip stick. Good thread, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Willy J]

"Baja" david jones wrote: I am wintering in Apache Junction Az. and would love to ride to/down BAHA, I would like to hook up with one or two riders with experience in Mexico.One or two weeks would be great,contact me at djones100rt@.... Thanks __________________________________________________________ The fish are biting. Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php --------------------------------- Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]