selling my '00 klr650

[fredb6323]

I have an '05 KLR650 bought new in Feb 06. After paying A$288 (US$225)for its first, 1000km dealer service, which consisted only of oil + filter change and probably cleaning the air filter**, I have decided to do future servicing myself. The dealer said that they'd filled with synthetic oil, but did not specify which type. I now want some advice on the oil to use. [** Dealer had apprentice wash the dust off the bike, which I did not want or authorize, but he didn't wash the dust off under the left side cover, so I could see that battery levels were not checked, nor was tank removed to inspect anything under there, like the spark plug. Etc. I didn't get $225 worth of work & materials!] On previous bikes, all air-cooled, I've always used "mineral" oils (should be called "natural mineral oils", vs "re-synthesized" oils, since the stuff in both originally comes from holes in the ground), but it seems that the "synthetics" really are a technical advance, so I'd like to go with these. I've done a little Googling, and it seems that the API grades specified for the KLR by Kawasaki are obsolete, dating from the time of the original KL/KLR design and the era of mineral-only oils. See table at http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html . This table says that API SE, SF, SG and SH are obsolete, and that SJ is nearly obsolete. That covers Kawi's entire recommended range!! The table says that API SM and SL are "For all automotive engines presently in use." As far as I'm concerned, that includes motorcycles, especially water-cooled ones. BUT, there may be a complication if there are FRICTION-MODIFIERS in the oils, which could cause a WET CLUTCH to SLIP. ---------------------- QUESTION: Has anyone out there tried any of the SM or SL synthetic oils that are marketed with cars in mind, rather than motorcycles, in their KLR or other wet-clutch bike? Any clutch problems? ----------------------- Sure, I can go to a bike shop and get a "motorcycle" oil. However, these may not be the latest and greatest oils. For example, Castrol's website recommends their GTS or R4 oils, which are both to the nearly-obsolete SG rating. Can I use their GTX3 (car) synthetic, for example? PS: I'm in Australia, where we have oils from mainstream companies such as Castrol, Shell, Mobil, BP, locally-refined Valvoline, as well as others, but some US others may not be as readily available. And Seasons Greetings to you all - Richard - Sydney, AUS

[Don S]

Hey Fred: When selecting oil for the KLR you would be wise to avoid the energy saving graded oils. They are usually weighted from 0w30 to 10w30. Any oil with a heavier weight such as 10w40 or heavier is an indication that the oil is non energy saving. Apparently, the lighter oils may cause glazing in the clutch. With regard synthetics, most do not recommend using it in the KLR until it's had a few thousand miles put on it using regular oil. Now, with regard the the $288.00 you paid for your first 1000 km maintenance service. From the sound of it, if the dealer didn't lift the tank off of the bike, they didn't inspect your valve lash clearance. Nobody pays that kind of money for an oil change and bike wash. The valve lash inspection portion of the maintenance service is what costs money. It's a couple hours labour for a decent mechanic. If that wasn't done and your valves have not been inspected and properly adjusted, you could experience serious performance issues and in time, mechanical problems. If I were you, I'd confirm that the valve inspection was part of the service agreement you paid for. Thereafter, ask if it was done. If they claim it was done, ask them how they managed to do it without taking the tank off off the bike. Seems like you might be dealing with some pretty slimy people. I'd start looking around for a better service shop. Good luck. I have an '05 KLR650 bought new in Feb 06. After paying A$288 (US$225)for its first, 1000km dealer service, which consisted only of oil + filter change and probably cleaning the air filter**, I have decided to do future servicing myself. The dealer said that they'd filled with synthetic oil, but did not specify which type. I now want some advice on the oil to use. [** Dealer had apprentice wash the dust off the bike, which I did not want or authorize, but he didn't wash the dust off under the left side cover, so I could see that battery levels were not checked, nor was tank removed to inspect anything under there, like the spark plug. Etc. I didn't get $225 worth of work & materials!] On previous bikes, all air-cooled, I've always used "mineral" oils (should be called "natural mineral oils", vs "re-synthesized" oils, since the stuff in both originally comes from holes in the ground), but it seems that the "synthetics" really are a technical advance, so I'd like to go with these. I've done a little Googling, and it seems that the API grades specified for the KLR by Kawasaki are obsolete, dating from the time of the original KL/KLR design and the era of mineral-only oils. See table at http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html . This table says that API SE, SF, SG and SH are obsolete, and that SJ is nearly obsolete. That covers Kawi's entire recommended range!! The table says that API SM and SL are "For all automotive engines presently in use." As far as I'm concerned, that includes motorcycles, especially water-cooled ones. BUT, there may be a complication if there are FRICTION-MODIFIERS in the oils, which could cause a WET CLUTCH to SLIP. ---------------------- QUESTION: Has anyone out there tried any of the SM or SL synthetic oils that are marketed with cars in mind, rather than motorcycles, in their KLR or other wet-clutch bike? Any clutch problems? ----------------------- Sure, I can go to a bike shop and get a "motorcycle" oil. However, these may not be the latest and greatest oils. For example, Castrol's website recommends their GTS or R4 oils, which are both to the nearly-obsolete SG rating. Can I use their GTX3 (car) synthetic, for example? PS: I'm in Australia, where we have oils from mainstream companies such as Castrol, Shell, Mobil, BP, locally-refined Valvoline, as well as others, but some US others may not be as readily available. And Seasons Greetings to you all - Richard - Sydney, AUS __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Stephen Grisanti]

2000 A14 Kawasaki KLR650 9,674 miles Olive green, faded plastic with spare side panels, front fender and tank. Good Dunlop D604 Trailmaxes Runs well but overheats. Spares, parts, manuals Semi-stout semi-beater $1,500 Bike is located in Richmond VA and I will not ship. For pics email : bike2vcu at yahoo dot com 804-439-0142 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com