klr650.net virus again?

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 21 Nov 2006 13:08:42 -0500 Douglas Bouley writes:

> My 06 blew the "little" fuse last night when I started the bike. No > obvious cause. Based on various comments I've read, my inclination > is to > not sweat it if it doesn't happen very often. Anyone have any other > > thoughts? If I keep the bike (it has been up for sale), I can see > the > value in replacing the fuse arrangement, as per the suggestions in > the > FAQ. What I'm really asking, I guess is how concerned I ought to be > > about possible underlying causes. > > > Thanks for any comments, > > doug in dc

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Doug, I'm just catching up on some e-mails and saw one reply suggesting you change the 10 amp fuse for a 15 amp fuse. I've heard that a lot over the past couple of years and it seems to work ok for many people. My feeling is you should stay with a 10 amp rated fuse as that is what protects the circuit. Going to a 15 amp fuse is gonna significantly increase the current that could pass through a circuit and possibly cause some serious damage to the wire harness or other components. I'd like to suggest you change from the glass type fuses to ATO fuses which are what is often found in many automobiles today. I think the glass type fuses are a bit more fragile than ATO type fuses and might have a higher failure rate because of their construction. As a side note... today I was working as a substitute instructor at the local technical institute and saw an old friend that teaches over the road truck driving. He mentioned that this summer he took a pretty good vacation in Wyoming and Montana for about a week. He was traveling in a Toyota Camry when it went dead at a fuel stop. He replaced the battery and it still wouldn't crank, start etc. Some guy stopped by to offer some help and they decided to try jumping it. Roger was in the car while the other guy hooked up the jumper cables. BACKWARDS!!! Then absolutely nothing worked. It took 6 weeks to get the vehicle fixed and that included a $1,700 wiring harness. Total bill was $6,000. He called his insurance agent and asked if that would be covered under his policy. The agent said he'd never heard of it being claimed before but would give it a try. The insurance company covered all but his $250 deductible under "random electricity" or something like that. Man is this guy lucky or what? Anyway, I suggest you stay with the 10 amp rated fuse and just change the type of fuse and fuse holder. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[teamster1997]

My 2006 head light fuse blew the third day after I bought it in August of 2005. I put a 15 amp in like everyone recommended back then and after 25,000 miles, I haven't had any problems. Tim........

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Douglas Bouley wrote: > > Yep, I did mean the headlight fuse. Thankful that it died upon > starting, not on the highway. Scary indeed. > > Anyway, I like that answer! I'm gonna go with it. > > Thanks much, > TOD (The Other Doug) > > PS I'm really glad the KLR hasn't sold yet. My car died expensively the > night before. Could be nature's way of saying: "keep the bike". Hmmmm... > > Doug Herr wrote: > > On Tue, 21 Nov 2006, Douglas Bouley wrote: > > > > > >> My 06 blew the "little" fuse last night when I started the bike. No > >> obvious cause. Based on various comments I've read, my inclination is to > >> not sweat it if it doesn't happen very often. Anyone have any other > >> thoughts? If I keep the bike (it has been up for sale), I can see the > >> value in replacing the fuse arrangement, as per the suggestions in the > >> FAQ. What I'm really asking, I guess is how concerned I ought to be > >> about possible underlying causes. > >> > >> > >> Thanks for any comments, > >> > > > > > > If it is the headlight fuse then just replace it with a 15amp and > > know that you may have helped the next owner avoid a dark and > > scary night ride. > > > > If not the headlight fuse then I am confused. > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Douglas Bouley]

Thanks, Don .That would be the right thing to do. My Dad, who was an electrician, would have agreed 100%. OTOH, blowing that fuse seems to be not uncommon. The bike is a low mileage road-only queen (so far) with no obvious wiring issues. So for a guy like me who has to think hard where to put the petrol in, I'm thinking maybe I'll wait and see if it happens a lot before I get too deep into it. doug Don S wrote:

> If it blew, there's got to be a reason. Check every connection, and look for a possible worn wire that might intermittently ground out. > > Don > > Douglas Bouley wrote: > My 06 blew the "little" fuse last night when I started the bike. No > obvious cause. Based on various comments I've read, my inclination is to > not sweat it if it doesn't happen very often. Anyone have any other > thoughts? If I keep the bike (it has been up for sale), I can see the > value in replacing the fuse arrangement, as per the suggestions in the > FAQ. What I'm really asking, I guess is how concerned I ought to be > about possible underlying causes. > > Thanks for any comments, > > doug in dc > > > > > > --------------------------------- > Sponsored Link > > $200,000 mortgage for $660/mo - 30/15 yr fixed, reduce debt, home equity - Click now for info > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Douglas Bouley]

Thanks, tim. I'm gonna give that a shot. -doug teamster1997 wrote:

> My 2006 head light fuse blew the third day after I bought it in August > of 2005. I put a 15 amp in like everyone recommended back then and > after 25,000 miles, I haven't had any problems. Tim........ > > > > > > > >

[Douglas Bouley]

Thanks, Jeff. I have been thinking about getting one of those fuse kits. If I keep the bike, I will do it. Removing the side covers and seat at the side of the road is more of a pain than it ought to be just to change a fuse (in my lazy opinion!). While I agree with your reasoning about the fuse size, I'm thinking I will do the "field expedient" thing for now (put in a glass 15 amp) until I either sell the bike or commit to the upgrade. If I keep it, the automotive breakers that reset themselves sound appealing, too. My Mazda died just the night before the fuse blew on the KLR. It is exhibiting (potentially) expensive electrical symptoms, This after $600 worth of new wiring stuff a couple months ago. Too bad I don't have comprehensive on it. Maybe I could convince GEICO that random electrons are the cause... especially if I could get the Rev to certify it was an act of God doug - who is not likely to be that lucky. Jeff Saline wrote:

> On Tue, 21 Nov 2006 13:08:42 -0500 Douglas Bouley > writes: > >> My 06 blew the "little" fuse last night when I started the bike. No >> obvious cause. Based on various comments I've read, my inclination >> is to >> not sweat it if it doesn't happen very often. Anyone have any other >> >> thoughts? If I keep the bike (it has been up for sale), I can see >> the >> value in replacing the fuse arrangement, as per the suggestions in >> the >> FAQ. What I'm really asking, I guess is how concerned I ought to be >> >> about possible underlying causes. >> >> >> Thanks for any comments, >> >> doug in dc >> > <><><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><><> > > Doug, > > I'm just catching up on some e-mails and saw one reply suggesting you > change the 10 amp fuse for a 15 amp fuse. I've heard that a lot over the > past couple of years and it seems to work ok for many people. My feeling > is you should stay with a 10 amp rated fuse as that is what protects the > circuit. Going to a 15 amp fuse is gonna significantly increase the > current that could pass through a circuit and possibly cause some serious > damage to the wire harness or other components. > > I'd like to suggest you change from the glass type fuses to ATO fuses > which are what is often found in many automobiles today. I think the > glass type fuses are a bit more fragile than ATO type fuses and might > have a higher failure rate because of their construction. > > As a side note... today I was working as a substitute instructor at the > local technical institute and saw an old friend that teaches over the > road truck driving. He mentioned that this summer he took a pretty good > vacation in Wyoming and Montana for about a week. He was traveling in a > Toyota Camry when it went dead at a fuel stop. He replaced the battery > and it still wouldn't crank, start etc. Some guy stopped by to offer > some help and they decided to try jumping it. Roger was in the car while > the other guy hooked up the jumper cables. BACKWARDS!!! Then absolutely > nothing worked. It took 6 weeks to get the vehicle fixed and that > included a $1,700 wiring harness. Total bill was $6,000. He called his > insurance agent and asked if that would be covered under his policy. The > agent said he'd never heard of it being claimed before but would give it > a try. The insurance company covered all but his $250 deductible under > "random electricity" or something like that. Man is this guy lucky or > what? > > Anyway, I suggest you stay with the 10 amp rated fuse and just change the > type of fuse and fuse holder. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Kevin Powers]

My understanding is that the headlight fuse trips when the high and low beams are on together when the H/L switch hangs up or is not pushed completely. I know that fuses come in different speeds; some trip the moment the rated amps are exceeded, others trip after the rated amperage is exceeded for a certain period of time. A "slow" 10A fuse may be the ticket for the headlight circuit. -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN .

> > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote:

> Doug, > SNIP

Roger was in the car while

> the other guy hooked up the jumper cables. BACKWARDS!!! Then

absolutely

> nothing worked. It took 6 weeks to get the vehicle fixed and that > included a $1,700 wiring harness. Total bill was $6,000. He

called his

> insurance agent and asked if that would be covered under his

policy. The

> agent said he'd never heard of it being claimed before but would

give it

> a try. The insurance company covered all but his $250 deductible

under

> "random electricity" or something like that. Man is this guy lucky

or

> what? > > Anyway, I suggest you stay with the 10 amp rated fuse and just

change the

> type of fuse and fuse holder. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline

Hi Jeff, Wow. What a lesson in electrickery. I would guess that he could actually IRS-deduct the $250 expense as as "educational" expense, him being a teacher and all. revmaaatin.

[Norm Keller]

>(put in a glass 15 amp) until I either sell the >bike or commit >to the upgrade. If I keep it, the automotive >breakers that reset >themselves sound appealing, too.

Be careful about installing breakers which automatically reset. If you use breakers of larger size such as 15 amp for the KLR, you may have a condition where wiring fries, breaker cuts out, resets, wiring fries, repeating. I don't care for breakers excepting for the head light circuit where they my provide a back-up of safety if the breaker is the faster reset type where it may allow the headlight to wink on and off rather than to go out. This often happens with older cage headlight switches where the breaker becomes weak. On the other side, it is hard to remember a case where the headlight breaker did the same with an over load. I doubt that the breaker really provides a real advantage but still the idea appeals. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Kimosabe]

Several months ago there was a link forwarded to some of us in the user group. The e-mail had a message something like "check this out" and little else. When you clicked on the link, it took you to a porn site and in the background it then mailed the link to the people in your address book. They perpetuated the process by clicking the link just like you did. A lot of people were affected and were very irate. This occured across a weekend and it involved yahoo user groups. I don't know where it originated, but yahoo jumped on the problem rapidly and apparently solved the problem. You can probably find references to it on the internet somewhere since it was publicized. I don't know how many other times this has happened, but I doubt that the DSN members are the cause, just unwitting users who are being taken advantage of by spammers and the like. Steve in Niceville

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" wrote: > > > > I see that the KLR650.net website is again be accused of spreading > > viruses t it users. THis is like what... 4 times in the past 2 years. > > FYI > > > > Who says? I have only heard it from you, and so I will assume that you are the source of the > rumor. > > I have been using klr650.net for over 5 years through many incarnations, and have never > encountered a virus. >

[Douglas Bouley]

Thanks, Norm. If I do go the breaker route, it will be far in the future if/after I get past current medical issues. I will go with the 15 amp glass fuse for now, and then most likely just replace the fuse box per Jeff's suggestion. If I'm able, a new headlight wiring harness would be nice, too. And then I also need to redo the crappy job of wiring the dealer did with my heated grips when I first bought the bike... And then there is the apparent need for the T mod, as the bike has been erratic in the recent rains we had... And then... Well, you know. Sigh. I miss my V4 Honda. Nothing ever loosened up and fell off. No mods were required for basic every-day use. The carbs always worked. Had plenty of electrickery. Etc. Etc. 'Course it sucked on dirt roads -doug in dc, who is just a bit overwhelmed at the moment, but really does like the KLR. Honest. Norm Keller wrote:

>> (put in a glass 15 amp) until I either sell the >bike or commit >> to the upgrade. If I keep it, the automotive >breakers that reset >> themselves sound appealing, too. >> > > Be careful about installing breakers which automatically reset. If you use breakers of larger size such as 15 amp for the KLR, you may have a condition where wiring fries, breaker cuts out, resets, wiring fries, repeating. I don't care for breakers excepting for the head light circuit where they my provide a back-up of safety if the breaker is the faster reset type where it may allow the headlight to wink on and off rather than to go out. This often happens with older cage headlight switches where the breaker becomes weak. On the other side, it is hard to remember a case where the headlight breaker did the same with an over load. I doubt that the breaker really provides a real advantage but still the idea appeals. > > Norm > > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]