battery charging

[ltslpr]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "dooden" wrote:

> Ummmm maybe somebody got tired of the fuse blowing so they

hardwired

> the fuse leads ?? or added a 20 amp or something. > > Just adding my... (umm it aint worth $.02) comment > > Dooden

Hey! I resent that! I went looking for the fuse box the first time the OEM headlight blew, couldn't find it on my own, looked in the shop manual and couldn't find any mention of it, and finally found the location by checking back in these archives. No electrical problems in 11 years and 28K miles... KLRs have got the simplest fuse boxes I have ever seen; no trouble finding the fuses on my own on my Valkyrie or ZX-10. Besides, I stated in my first email, that started this line of rumination, that I had found one of the two fuses broken and had replaced both. Geeezzz. Keep track of the posts... Glenn San Jose, Ca.

[ltslpr]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "corndawg389" wrote:

> I recently had the exact same problem with my headlight.I had

totally > missed the fact that the connectors in the

> headlight plug were not fitting tightly onto the bulb causing

Thank you for this tip, I probably would have just put the multimeter probes into the socket slots without inspecting the fit on the bulb. May or may not have checked the bulb spades for continuity... I'll be looking into this Friday night, and will post what I find. Glenn San Jose, Ca.

[dooden]

Actually I was kinda thinking maybe previous owner might have... or ummm what am I talking about... now I forgot what the thread was about... Dang... Blaaarrrrrrr coffee tastes salty.. water softener must have been cycling or something when I drew the water... I did'nt actually touch the fuse box on mine for over a year, until the fuse thing got spun up on day, then think I asked where it was before looking, thought it was nice of Kawi to include a spare fuse. But stuffed a box of fuses in the tool kit hole anyway along with a few wire straps. Opened up the the toolkit and poured it out to see what was in it, it seems pretty complete for the amount of space it takes up. Seemed missing a size for some reason, but I think the size missing was there as a would be socket on something, turn one of the things around and use one of the wrenches to turn it from the other end. Again this is my first cup of coffee at 4:30 am and its salty so it going down slow. And I gotta go... Grandson is waiting for me to pick him and his mommy up in Chicago. Chow... Dooden

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "ltslpr" wrote: > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "dooden" wrote: > > Ummmm maybe somebody got tired of the fuse blowing so they > hardwired > > the fuse leads ?? or added a 20 amp or something. > > > > Just adding my... (umm it aint worth $.02) comment > > > > Dooden > > > Hey! I resent that! > > I went looking for the fuse box the first time the OEM headlight blew, > couldn't find it on my own, looked in the shop manual and couldn't > find any mention of it, and finally found the location by checking > back in these archives. No electrical problems in 11 years and 28K > miles... KLRs have got the simplest fuse boxes I have ever seen; no > trouble finding the fuses on my own on my Valkyrie or ZX-10. > > Besides, I stated in my first email, that started this line of > rumination, that I had found one of the two fuses broken and had > replaced both. > > Geeezzz. Keep track of the posts... > > Glenn > San Jose, Ca.

[dooden]

That is a good tip, I got a late model Chevy truck and rear "left" brake/turn bulb almost never works. The electrical plate that the bulbs plug into must have been engineered by a monkey or something. Basically the socket is melted from the "brake light / turn signal" being on, I have attempted repair a few times by bending the metal tabs, dipping toothpick in dielectric grease and shoving it in behind to help keep the contact tight. About ready to mount a external marker light or something and wire it to the harness. Of course like any aftermarket parts its expensive, need to remember to stop and a junkyard and search one out, maybe be able to get a whole tail light assembly cheap if I get one that the lense is busted, since I only need the inside plate that bolts to the lense. I wonder if you can still go there tell them what your looking for and head out in the yard and search it out... kinda doubt it eh.. Dooden

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "ltslpr" wrote: > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "corndawg389" wrote: > > I recently had the exact same problem with my headlight.I had > totally > missed the fact that the connectors in the > > headlight plug were not fitting tightly onto the bulb causing > > Thank you for this tip, I probably would have just put the multimeter > probes into the socket slots without inspecting the fit on the bulb. > May or may not have checked the bulb spades for continuity... > > I'll be looking into this Friday night, and will post what I find. > > Glenn > San Jose, Ca.

[Chris Krok]

> From: "Steven van Twuyver" > Subject: Subject: Re: electrical > > >Also, resistance of most materials decreases as they > >get hotter, so you might be able to put even more voltage across the > >bulb to get that 10A. > > Krokko, > I don't think the above statement is true. It seems to me that resistance > of most common conducting and semi-conducting materials i.e. aluminum, > copper, silicon etc. increase with an increase in heat.

Oops, you're right. I meant to say "increases with temperature." Therefore allowing a voltage greater than 24V before reaching 10A. Only thing I recall that actually decreases in resistance with temp are thermistors. Thanks! Krokko -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125

[ltslpr]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "dooden" wrote:

> Actually I was kinda thinking maybe previous owner might have... or > ummm what am I talking about... now I forgot what the thread was > about... >

All is forgiven, Dooden. Glenn San Jose, Ca.

[corndawg389]

Did I miss the conclusion on that mysterious headlight problem? Just wondering if my advice shed a little light on the subject? Please don't leave me in the dark on this one. Scott White (waiting for a flicker of hope)

[dooden]

Message 71227 I believe that was the finding. Chow... Dooden

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "corndawg389" wrote: > Did I miss the conclusion on that mysterious headlight problem? Just > wondering if my advice shed a little light on the subject? Please > don't leave me in the dark on this one. > > Scott White > (waiting for a flicker of hope)

[joecrumley]

I would like to install a voltmeter on my KLR mini dash. Have any of you guys come accross a small meter? We all know that this bike has limited output and is questionable when using a vest or heated gloves. I have searched at the local auto supply houses with little success. Joe

[George Basinet]

joecrumley wrote:

>I would like to install a voltmeter on my KLR mini dash. Have any of >you guys come accross a small meter? We all know that this bike has >limited output and is questionable when using a vest or heated gloves. > >I have searched at the local auto >supply houses with little success. > >Joe >

Joe, This is what I did a couple of weeks ago. Everything appears to be working fine. G. When I was looking into voltmeters for the KLR Rick Kubic suggested a meter from Radio Shack. http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F008%5F017%5F000%5F000&product%5Fid=22%2D112 It is a Battery/Alternator Tester # 22-112 and costs $5.99 + change. It's solid state so I guess that means no moving parts to vibrate loose. Mounted it on the small shelf behind the fairing with velcro. It's out of the weather and kind of shaded from the sun. The leads had to be extended, red (+) to battery and black (-) to an off/on switch. The reason for the off/on switch is because in order to measure the battery you do it with the key (ignition) Off. Without an off/on switch the meter would be on all the time. Don't suppose it would draw much electricity. The alternator is measured with the key On. At first I thought that I could use the on/off switch on the start button module to accomplish this but the switch doesn't work that way. At least it didn't for me. Instead I used an old handlebar switch from a BMW. Now when I ride the battery is checked before I turn the ignition switch and the alternator with the motor running. Yesterday I had Green - Normal 12.5V on the battery. The alternator showed Green - Normal 14V when riding. Be advised that I don't know much about electricity and hate it when I let all the smoke out of my wiring. On an Italian bike black smoke means serious trouble. White means they have elected a new Pope. So be careful. Also I don't know if this meter will last if it is used continuously. Incidentally Radio Shack no longer produces a printed catalog instead is has an on-line version. George Escondido, CA List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chr