klr650 sat for 6 months = now it won't run

[Jim]

Well I pulled my rack off today, and found the 2 small top screws not very tight. I constructed a new rack from light steel, completely replacing all of the cast aluminum. I figured a side benefit would be ease of adding brackets for the large ammo boxes I ordered off ebay. I went to install the newly constructed rack, and the top 2 screws just spun freely! After removing the fender I found the 2 captured nuts are stripped out. I was supposed to be riding the bike downstate to pick up a truck tomorrow, and need the rack (actually, the Givi box attached to the rack), to carry a few things I needed for the trip. Now the trip is off, and I'm left trying to plan the next step. How have others dealt with this issue, if it has happened before? The way I see it, I basically have 2 choices: cut off the brackets, make new brackets with real nuts welded in, and weld the new brackets on. A little butch for an '06 bike thats all of 3 months old. OR, I could drop $200 for a subframe on ebay, wait for it to come in, and hope this doesn't happen to THAT subframe. Any thoughts? Jim

[Jim Maxwell]

Can you tap it to the next size and use a larger bolt? Jim

On 7/13/06, Jim wrote: > Well I pulled my rack off today, and found the 2 small top screws not > very tight. I constructed a new rack from light steel, completely > replacing all of the cast aluminum. I figured a side benefit would be > ease of adding brackets for the large ammo boxes I ordered off ebay. I > went to install the newly constructed rack, and the top 2 screws just > spun freely! After removing the fender I found the 2 captured nuts are > stripped out. I was supposed to be riding the bike downstate to pick up > a truck tomorrow, and need the rack (actually, the Givi box attached to > the rack), to carry a few things I needed for the trip. Now the trip is > off, and I'm left trying to plan the next step. > > How have others dealt with this issue, if it has happened before? The > way I see it, I basically have 2 choices: cut off the brackets, make > new brackets with real nuts welded in, and weld the new brackets on. A > little butch for an '06 bike thats all of 3 months old. OR, I could > drop $200 for a subframe on ebay, wait for it to come in, and hope this > doesn't happen to THAT subframe. Any thoughts? > > Jim > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[Joseph A Bongiorno]

If it is the topsubframe bolts that are stripped out, the fix is to drill all the way through both holes and put one single bolt through it. Eagle Mike and Dual Star sell a kit that has the bits you need plus the beefier bolt. See this thread for pictures: http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33586&highlight=subframe Joe

[Jim]

Actually the ones that are stripped are the 2 upper rack bolts, the ones that go through the stock plastic part, into the top of the subframe. Considering there are only 4 bolts total holding the rack in place, I would think all 4 would be larger bolts like the lower ones (8mm instead of 6mm). Someday I'll make a better subframe-side bracket, using 8mm nuts so the rack will be much more secure. Jim --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Joseph A Bongiorno wrote:

> > If it is the topsubframe bolts that are stripped out, the fix is to

drill

> all the way through both holes and put one single bolt through it.

Eagle

> Mike and Dual Star sell a kit that has the bits you need plus the

beefier

> bolt. > > See this thread for pictures: > > http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33586&highlight=subframe > > Joe >

[Mike Frey]

Sounds like bad gas and/or plugged jets. Assuming that you are technically minded enough, do the following in this order: 1) Drain the gas tank and get rid of that gasoline. 2) Drain the float bowl of the carburetor. 3) Find Seafoam or Chevron Techron carb cleaner (either one, whichever is easier to get) and make a small mix of 50/50 gasoline/cleaner and feed it into your carburetor and let it sit overnight. Pour extra mix into the gas tank and add 2 gallons of gasoline. 4) The next day, start it up. It won't run well at first because of all the 50% cleaner that's in the carb. Take it for a ride if you can. If it doesn't get better after 10-20 miles, you need to take the carb apart and clean it. You have a 75% chance that steps 1-3 will do the job. totallytexan62 wrote:

> Hello all. > I bought a new 2005 KLR650 last year, and was able to put almost 200 > trouble-free miles on it before heading overseas (Kuwait) to work. > The bike has been sitting in the garage for 6-1/2 months, with the > wife starting it a couple of times each week. A month ago, just > before I went home on vacation, she said it wouldn't start because > the battery was dead. > So, while recently home on vacation, I put a quick charge on the > battery and fired up the KLR with no problems. THE PROBLEM CAME > when I tried to ride the it. IT WON'T ACCELERATE. IT WON'T GO. > I CAN'T GET IT TO REV OVER 3,000 RPM, and have to fiddle with the > choke to even get it to rev up. It will idle, but that's about it. > Can anyone tell me what has happened to my precious KLR? I know > that I shouldn't have left her unattended for 6 months. I don't > know if it's a bad gas issue, carburetor problem, choke problem, etc. > Any advice or information would be GREATLY appreciated. > Thanks-a-bunch. > > Joe Johnson > >