parts for sale- 2005 klr

[Phil]

I have a 99 klr650 which only has 7200 miles on it--mostly on the road. I just noticed that both of the rubber dust boots on the front forks are badly torn. Is this a lot of work to do myself? Is there an aftermarket pair that'll last longer? Any links or ideas appreciated. TIA Phil

[Conall]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" wrote:

> > I have a 99 klr650 which only has 7200 miles on it--mostly on the

road.

> I just noticed that both of the rubber dust boots on the front forks > are badly torn. Is this a lot of work to do myself? Is there an > aftermarket pair that'll last longer? Any links or ideas

appreciated.

> TIA Phil >

It my experience as soon as you use any type of spray-on cleaner, whether is is ST100, simple green , purple power, citrus based cleaners etc., your fook boots will start splitting apart. I never clean my fork boots with anything other than water now. Conall

[hijklr]

Phil, The Daystar #58 fork boots (Fred sells them) are great. The rubber is thicker and more flexible. There are only 2 small vent holes near the middle of each (versus the numerous holes down low on the stock boots) which water can enter. After 3 years, mine still look and feel new. Keep them clean (wet rag) to prevent wear. go here for fork removal/re-assembly procedures http://www.klr650.marknet.us/ The "fork oil change" procedure details how to remove and replace the forks. Of course, you won't be loosening or removing the end caps, etc. Upon reassembly, make sure to tighten each pair of fork clamp bolts several times, as tightening one, will in effect, loosen the other. Tighten several times, back and forth across each pair till they are both tight. From my experience, the called for 18 ft-lbs of torque on the clamp bolts isn't enough to keep them from loosening. I tighten them a little more by feel until snug. Kevin A17

[Norm Keller]

' Ever do a procedure for 25 years successfully and then have someone show you an aspect which you hadn't considered? Join the club (VBG)! A friend turned me on to this article which has a procedure for lining up the forks which makes so much sense that I'm still smacking myself on the forehead (ouch !) VBG. Norm Front Suspension Most of this article will be basic, but I will cover a few points that you normally will not see or be told about anywhere else. We will start with some basic maintenance. Get out your service manual. The manual will give you the bolts and nuts of how to do the basic tear down. Before you start, measure the height of the fork tube that is above the top of the upper triple clamp and write this measurement down. If you have a new bike, have the fork oil height checked and have any corrections made if needed. If you just bought a used cycle, get a suspension shop to service the forks and replace the seals and wipers. If you have a cycle that has over 5 months riding time on it, have a shop service the forks. Set the clickers to stock settings. Basic fork oil change should be performed at least every 6 months. Next, remove the upper and lower triple clamps and inspect the upper and lower bearings and races for wear or pitting. Grease and reinstall, or replace, depending on condition. This service should be performed when you first get the cycle and once a year thereafter. Reinstall the triple clamps and adjust the tension on the bearings. Check your service manual for the proper tension. This next step is VERY IMPORTANT. This is the PROPER WAY to install forks. ATTENTION - if improperly installed, the forks can't work to their full potential. First install the left fork (left is determined as if you were sitting on the bike) into the triple clamps. (A little WD 40 sprayed on the fork tubes will make them slide in easier.) The measurement you took before you removed the forks will allow you to reinstall the left fork at the proper height. VERY IMPORTANT - Torque the pinch bolts to factory specs. Next, install the right fork in the triple clamp at approximately the same height as the left fork and LIGHTLY tighten ONLY ONE of the pinch bolts. This next step is CRITICAL -install the axle into the forks, grab the axle between the left and right fork, and begin rotating the axle. As you rotate the axle, loosen the pinch bolt on the right fork and move the right fork up and down until you locate the place where the axle turns most freely. Now, at this position, torque the pinch bolts to factory specs. Install the wheel and brakes, and tighten the axle and/or axle nut. Torque the axle pinch bolts on the LEFT FORK ONLY. Now, you need to work the forks up and down. The best way is to tie the cycle down in/on your trailer, or ride the cycle SLOWLY up and down the driveway, and pump the front brake level several times, making the forks move deep into the travel. Now you can TORQUE the RIGHT axle pinch bolts. The last step for the forks is to check race sag. Most manuals and articles never mention front race sag, but it is important. With the cycle on a stand and the wheels off the ground, wrap a piece of duct tape around the brake hose such that the top of the duct tape is even with the bottom of the brake hose guide. Take the cycle off the stand, mount the cycle, and bounce up and down while you hold the front brake. Then sit down with your shoulders over the handlebars and your hips over the foot pegs. Now, look at the tape on the brake hose. The bottom of the tape should be between the bottom and the top of the guide. In this position, you will have the recommended race sag of 2 to 2 1/2 inches. If the tape is not between the top and bottom of the guide, changes need to be made. If the bottom of the tape is above the top of the guide, you need heavier springs. If the bottom of the tape is below the bottom of the guide, you need softer springs. Within the three columns we have now covered the front and back of the cycle. Everything should have been serviced, and you should have good bearings, proper springs, sags properly set, and fresh oil. Next month we will learn how to adjust the suspension to make what you have work the best it can for you. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Glenn Parkinson]

Hi Norm, The article on setting up the front forks was excellent and timely, since I am just putting my bike back together after servicing stem bearings fork oil et al. The author mentions three columns covering other parts of the bike and another column on suspension "next month". Do you have a link to the other columns? I'd appreciate reading this guy's approach to other areas of maintenance. Cheers, Glenn (A15 in Powell River, BC)

[Jim]

I have a corbin Flat seat, new in box $250.00 or OBO Highway Pegs/ engine guard- Built myself- look very nice, $60.00 OBO and a 05 KLR650 also.