oil window

[Matt]

I've had pinging on premium. I switched to a colder plug and in the hot summer months it still pinged. It hasn't pinged since I turned out the pilot screww to two turns out, but I went back to the standard plug and it's still on the white side. I think I'll go back to the colder plug. Matt

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Randall Marbach wrote: > > My A17 is the same, It pings on 89, even after the > pilot screw adjustment. I am getting low 40s mpg. > > HTH > > Randy from Burbank > > --- denningpat wrote: > > I was wondering what fuel grade everyone uses. I > > have an

[Rodney Copeland]

For some reason, prolly timing difference, my 03 doesn't like the 87 stuff with load or heavy excelleration. Pretty sure it's faster and more economical cuz of it. Rod,,,,,,always usin the high antiknock shtuff --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Randall Marbach wrote:

> > My A17 is the same, It pings on 89, even after the > pilot screw adjustment. I am getting low 40s mpg. > > HTH > > Randy from Burbank > > --- denningpat wrote: > > > > > > > I was wondering what fuel grade everyone uses. I > > have an 03 > > with 9000 miles and it's always pinged on regular 89 > > octane. I've > > turned the pilot out two turns and though this > > helped with the low > > end and starting it still pings under full and > > sometimes 1/2 throttle > > except when I use premium 92 octane. Also I > > adjusted the valves to > > the upper limits. Whats the best way to richen up > > the upper end, and > > should I use stock parts or a dynojet kit > > (expensive)? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Patrick in Seattle > > > > > > > > > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: > > www.dualsportnews.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: > > www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Fri, Jan 14, 2005 at 06:48:52PM -0000, Rodney Copeland wrote:

> > > For some reason, prolly timing difference, my 03 doesn't like the 87 > stuff with load or heavy excelleration. > Pretty sure it's faster and more economical cuz of it. > Rod,,,,,,always usin the high antiknock shtuff

I doubt it has anything to do with the timing. Why would Kawasaki change it after twenty years? The usual cause of pinging or other lean running conditions on KLRs, once the pilot screw has been adjusted, seems to be some kind of restriction in the fuel system. Check for bent/kinked hoses, a flake of crud in the petcock, and so forth. Maybe incorrect float level in the carb? That's a bit harder to check. Thor

[klr6501995]

a cooler plug DOES cure the klrs slight ping under load. been there done that and have recommended it a couple of times on this list. my running salvaged motor came with cooler plug in it. I went to stock and ping,ping, said duh, maybe previous rider did this plug for a reason.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, kdxkawboy@a... wrote: > In a message dated 2005-01-13 9:57:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, > denningpat@y... writes: > > > > > I was wondering what fuel grade everyone uses. I have an 03 > > with 9000 miles and it's always pinged on regular 89 octane. I've > > turned the pilot out two turns and though this helped with the low > > end and starting it still pings under full and sometimes 1/2 throttle > > except when I use premium 92 octane. Also I adjusted the valves to > > the upper limits. Whats the best way to richen up the upper end, and > > should I use stock parts or a dynojet kit (expensive)? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Patrick in Seattle > > > > Pat, > A KLR should be a happy chappy running on 89 octane. I don't think pinging is > a sign that the jetting is off as much as it is an indication that the > burning of compressed gas/air is not happening in a controlled manner. > You might try playing with the heat range/tip length of the spark plug. Been > so long since I've had to play with the heat range I forget which way does > what but I think in this case you want to try a cooler plug. > > Pat > G'ville, Nv > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Rodney Copeland]

HHMMMMM. I haven't done the carb mod and the Hoss is still all stock and gets riddin every day. Pretty sure the only explanation is a factory set timin diff, if many bikes seem to run without pingin on the cheap shtuff. Mine sure doesn't like it! Rod,,,,,,rememberin, his was built in Tie Land --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

> On Fri, Jan 14, 2005 at 06:48:52PM -0000, Rodney Copeland wrote: > > > > > > For some reason, prolly timing difference, my 03 doesn't like the

87

> > stuff with load or heavy excelleration. > > Pretty sure it's faster and more economical cuz of it. > > Rod,,,,,,always usin the high antiknock shtuff > > I doubt it has anything to do with the timing. Why would Kawasaki

change

> it after twenty years? > > The usual cause of pinging or other lean running conditions on

KLRs, once

> the pilot screw has been adjusted, seems to be some kind of

restriction in

> the fuel system. Check for bent/kinked hoses, a flake of crud in

the

> petcock, and so forth. Maybe incorrect float level in the carb?

That's

> a bit harder to check. > > Thor

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2005-01-14 10:39:13 AM Pacific Standard Time, arden646@... writes:

> Not sure how to get rid of carbon except to scrape > it off. There are products that claim to remove it, don't know if > they work or not. > >

Marvel Mystery Oil does a good job of burning out the carbon deposits. If you could figure how to drip it into the intake manifold (on a multi cylinder bike you use the holes for hooking up a carb balancer) you would more than likely see a few chunks getting blown out the exhaust. Premature denotation is when the flame front advances to fast causing the explosion to push back against a still rising piston. The heat and reach of the spark plug also help control the speed of the burn, a cooler spark gives the flame front a slower start. Its one of the last things you would play with in trying to tune an engine. Given that the KLR should be more than happy on 87 octane with stock jetting I'm thinking what might be needed is the fine turing of the plugs heat range to compensate for what ever manufacturing tolerances are causing the bike to want higher octane to control the pre-dentonation. If that didn't solve the problem then for whatever the reason he may just have the odd engine that is not happy with low octane. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

FWIW: GM's Kleens (sp?) is a product we've used commercially for 20 years or so for decarbonising. The practice is to have the engine up to temperature, run at fast idle and slowly (repeat: slowly) pour about 80% of the contents into the carb air horn at a rate fast enough to make the engine try to bog. Then, pour the rest in just quickly enough to stall the engine and let sit for a couple of hours but over night is better. When you start up there will be a HUGE(!) cloud of smoke so don't do it in the garage, under the clothes line or near the neighbour's prize orchids (VBG). We used to like to hot wire a buddy's vehicle and do a treatment outside his house at night. In the morning he would just crap until he smelled the smoke and caught on. (LOL) My 30 year old son asked me, "What are you going to be when you grow up, Dad?" Some obvious cautions: 1) I would used about 1/3 of a can of Kleens to do a KLR as the engine size is pretty small compared to a cage.More won't do any harm but will be more smoke and more time taken. 2) Don't be dumb and hydraulic the engine! That is to say, don't pour the stuff in so fast that you have a big flow of liquid and fill the compression area so full that the piston has to try to compress the liquid as this will tend to bend the connecting rod or similar damage. This is not difficult to avoid by just listening to the engine's reaction as you pour the liquid in. It's as easy as adding cream to a nearly full coffee. With horizontal intakes like the KLR's, a small squirt bottle will be a handy way to squirt in with air filter removed.Use Nitrile gloves as this stuff is nasty on the skin. 3) You won't hurt anything by using this stuff to decarbonise if there isn't any carbon or ash to be removed. 4) By the way, the term "carbon" as referred to in this context means "hard combustion chamber deposits" which are more likely to be a hard grey or tan ash which is very difficult to scrape out manually. If contemplating engine work, I recommend doing a Kleens treatment before removing the head unless you have access to a commercial hot tank as it is hard to get the deposits out otherwise. 5) If you have an oil burner which does not have a wet clutch (this lets the KLR out!!!) STP, Motor Honey or the like will also do a wonderful job of softening deposits but will likely do in your clutch on a bike, so this is added for interest sake. HIH Norm

[georgew@dnet.aunz.com]

On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 10:09:10 -0800, you wrote: Also FWIW: To de coke a Jeep, you use bog-standard tap water, about a coke can. You use an identical procedure to that described in the previous post (below), including all of the cautions. I wonder if anyone has any knowledge of the use of water to de coke a KLR? On the face of it, I see no reason why it wouldn't work, but I haven't yet plucked up the courage to give it a try. -- DP > >FWIW: > GM's Kleens (sp?) is a product we've used commercially for 20 years or so >for decarbonising. The practice is to have the engine up to temperature, run >at fast idle and slowly (repeat: slowly) pour about 80% of the contents into >the carb air horn at a rate fast enough to make the engine try to bog. Then, >pour the rest in just quickly enough to stall the engine and let sit for a >couple of hours but over night is better. When you start up there will be a >HUGE(!) cloud of smoke so don't do it in the garage, under the clothes line >or near the neighbour's prize orchids (VBG). > >We used to like to hot wire a buddy's vehicle and do a treatment outside his >house at night. In the morning he would just crap until he smelled the smoke >and caught on. (LOL) My 30 year old son asked me, "What are you going to be >when you grow up, Dad?" > >Some obvious cautions: >1) I would used about 1/3 of a can of Kleens to do a KLR as the engine size >is pretty small compared to a cage.More won't do any harm but will be more >smoke and more time taken. >2) Don't be dumb and hydraulic the engine! That is to say, don't pour the >stuff in so fast that you have a big flow of liquid and fill the compression >area so full that the piston has to try to compress the liquid as this will >tend to bend the connecting rod or similar damage. This is not difficult to >avoid by just listening to the engine's reaction as you pour the liquid in. >It's as easy as adding cream to a nearly full coffee. With horizontal >intakes like the KLR's, a small squirt bottle will be a handy way to squirt >in with air filter removed.Use Nitrile gloves as this stuff is nasty on the >skin. >3) You won't hurt anything by using this stuff to decarbonise if there isn't >any carbon or ash to be removed. >4) By the way, the term "carbon" as referred to in this context means "hard >combustion chamber deposits" which are more likely to be a hard grey or tan >ash which is very difficult to scrape out manually. If contemplating engine >work, I recommend doing a Kleens treatment before removing the head unless >you have access to a commercial hot tank as it is hard to get the deposits >out otherwise. >5) If you have an oil burner which does not have a wet clutch (this lets the >KLR out!!!) STP, Motor Honey or the like will also do a wonderful job of >softening deposits but will likely do in your clutch on a bike, so this is >added for interest sake. > >HIH > >Norm > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[squasher_1]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, georgew@d... wrote:

> On Sat, 15 Jan 2005 10:09:10 -0800, you wrote: > > Also FWIW: > To de coke a Jeep, you use bog-standard tap water, about a coke can. > You use an identical procedure to that described in the previous

post

> (below), including all of the cautions. > I wonder if anyone has any knowledge of the use of water to de coke

a

> KLR? On the face of it, I see no reason why it wouldn't work, but I > haven't yet plucked up the courage to give it a try. > > -- > DP >

I used a pump spray bottle full of water and sprayed it into the side airbox opening with the air filter removed and the idle screw turned up to around 4000rpm. after about 10 oz I just let the engine run for a while to burn off any water in the engine or exhaust. when the motor was cold I removed the plug and didn't see any improvment. and there was some water in the airbox between the filter and carb that needed to be drained. You can buy some (Yamaha) cumbustion chamber cleaner at a boat motor store that sells Yamahas. I think Mercury outboard sells the same thing with thier name on it. That stuff works!!!!!

[Blake Sobiloff]

Well, spring has sprung here in San Jose while I was away for three weeks, and we're into summer now. I removed my clear visor and replaced it with a tinted one, as the sun gets up before me now and doesn't go to bed until after I get home from work. It's warm enough that I've removed the insulated liner from my Aerostich Darien jacket, too. With the warmer weather, I've noticed that my bike will ping a bit (and even threaten to stall) when leaving a light I've sat at for a while after a good, high-speed run on the highway. The coolant temp is never getting up to 2/3 of the gauge's range, and I even replaced the thermostat earlier this spring (thanks for the maintenance suggestion, Norm!). The fan works fine and comes on at the appropriate times. I just adjusted the valves and popped in a new iridium NKG spark plug a few months ago as well, so the bike's in a pretty good state of tune. So, aside from using a higher octane fuel (I'm running 87), what can be done to minimize/eliminate the pinging? -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)