klr tourability

[John Holliman]

I am the proud owner of a 2002 KLR 650, I now have 600 miles on it and about to take it for its first service. It is totally factory at this point. three quick questions- 1. I exceeded 4000 RPM a little in the break-in after about 250 miles, should I have the mechanic look at anything specifically at the first service? 2. What should I do to the bike first? and 3. Should I buy the Kaw extended warranty for about $400 bucks for an additional 24 months?

[Stu]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "John Holliman" wrote:

> I am the proud owner of a 2002 KLR 650, I now have 600 miles

on it and

> about to take it for its first service. It is totally factory at

this

> point. three quick questions- > > 1. I exceeded 4000 RPM a little in the break-in after about 250

miles,

> should I have the mechanic look at anything specifically at the

first

> service? >

Do it yourself, save $$$ and you can be sure it is done right. There are plenty of resources on the list to help you do the 600 mile service easily and painlessly.

> 2.

What should I do to the bike first? and

>

Progressive fork springs, the "new" Larry Roeseler ones. And buy the shop manuals.

> 3. Should I buy the Kaw extended warranty for about $400 bucks for

an

> additional 24 months?

I wouldn't, just stay on top of the maintenance yourself. Save the money for a new rear shock / some better tires. My 99 is 3 yrs old on the 24th of Nov., has 16k+ hard miles on it, doesn't go to the dealer ever. CA Stu

[Ed Snow]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "John Holliman" wrote: John, > 1. I exceeded 4000 RPM a little in the break-in after about 250 > miles, should I have the mechanic look at anything specifically at > the first service? Yeah, have him look at your back as you ride outta there with a new oil filter and shims to do the service yourself. It's not that hard and the experience will help you prepare for other "Do-it-yourself" repairs. Plus you will pocket a sizeable amount of change and KNOW that the valves were checked. > 3. Should I buy the Kaw extended warranty for about $400 bucks for > an additional 24 months? I stopped buying extended warranties long ago on just about everything. Extended warranties are a high markup item that dealers of just about everything (Cars, TV's, toasters, etc.) sell to increase their profit, In my opinion they usually run out just before everything starts to wear out. Plus if you don't follow the maintance routine they don't cover things. Frankly if you follow the maintance routine....you won't need it. Just my humble $.02 Ed Snow 2001 KLR650 "Zoom Zoom"

[Dale Johnson]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "John Holliman" wrote:

> I am the proud owner of a 2002 KLR 650, I now have 600 miles

on it and

> about to take it for its first service. It is totally factory at

this

> point. three quick questions- > > 1. I exceeded 4000 RPM a little in the break-in after about 250

miles,

> should I have the mechanic look at anything specifically at the

first

> service?

No , Do it yourself or they will LISTEN for the valves and charge you for adjusting them , it's easy to do yourself.. there are also a couple of good web sites with directions/pics of how to do it.

> > 2. What should I do to the bike first? and >

Stuff a rag in the black hole so you don't loose a bolt in it

> 3. Should I buy the Kaw extended warranty for about $400 bucks for

an

> additional 24 months?

Nope not needed, you'll be doing the service yourself

[Dale Johnson]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Stu" wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "John Holliman" wrote: > > I am the proud owner of a 2002 KLR 650, I now have 600 miles > on it and > > about to take it for its first service. It is totally factory

at

> this > > point. three quick questions- > > > > 1. I exceeded 4000 RPM a little in the break-in after about 250 > miles, > > should I have the mechanic look at anything specifically at the > first > > service? > > > Do it yourself, save $$$ and you can be sure it is done right. > There are plenty of resources on the list to help you do the 600

mile

> service easily and painlessly. > > > 2. > What should I do to the bike first? and > > > Progressive fork springs, the "new" Larry Roeseler ones. And buy

the

> shop manuals. > > > 3. Should I buy the Kaw extended warranty for about $400 bucks

for

> an > > additional 24 months? > > I wouldn't, just stay on top of the maintenance yourself. Save the > money for a new rear shock / some better tires. > > My 99 is 3 yrs old on the 24th of Nov., has 16k+ hard miles on it, > doesn't go to the dealer ever. > > CA Stu

Yea what he said, ohh wait i said that too.. Also I have a Y2K KLR with 40k on it never been to the dealer

[jayed36@yahoo.com]

> 2. What should I do to the bike first? and

1) Progressive springs for the front forks 2) ProGel grips 3) Bump up the rear shock damping and preload 4) stainless steel braided front brake line 5) Ditch the windshield 6) Wear your stock tires out quickly so you can put something decent on

> 3. Should I buy the Kaw extended warranty for about $400 bucks for > an additional 24 months?

Everyone says don't buy it... but I bought it. Hard to beat an extended warranty on something that you can take off road and beat the crap out of, then take it back 2 years later if something breaks. Jeff San Bruno A15

[Stu]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., jayed36@y... wrote:

> > 3. Should I buy the Kaw extended warranty for about $400 bucks

for

> > an additional 24 months? > > Everyone says don't buy it... but I bought it. Hard to beat an > extended warranty on something that you can take off road and beat > the crap out of, then take it back 2 years later if something

breaks.

> > Jeff > San Bruno > A15

Hey Jeff, be sure and let the group know if you ever use that extended warranty, I'm curious as to what it will cover. If it's anything like an automobile extended warranty, it will cover your piston and engine block and not much else... CA Stu A13

[Chris Krok]

> Regarding the break-in, you may want to read this. I have no idea of how correct it is, but I found the logic very interesting. > > http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Some of this guy's info is pretty interesting, but I'd like to see a little more analysis behind it... It doesn't seem that the cylinder crosshatching is really rough enough to be the main driver of ring wear/break-in. I don't see how the "high pressure" method could really push the rings out far enough to engage the cylinder all around, and I could imagine that forcing the rings harder against the crosshatching could "use up the roughness" just as fast as the traditional break-in method. After 25k miles, the crosshatching was still visible all around the cylinder on my KLR... There isn't really any way to compare break-in methods without doing side-by-side analysis of a statistically signifigant number of engines. Krokko P.S. That Die Hard battery I was raving about finally died after 5.5 years... Pretty happy about that! I don't even know if I get five years out of a car battery, and that doesn't see nearly the abuse. Happy holidays, everyone! -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125

[Mike Torst]

When a motor is broken in, the operator has two general choices. He/she can keep the cylinder pressures very low and hope the rings inherent tension seat them into the cylinder bore(s), or he/she can help the rings seat into the cylinder liner(s) by allowing for brief periods of increased, lower-moderate-rpm, cylinder pressures to help the rings out. Non/low oil-burning motors occur more often when the rings seat very well in the initial periods of operation. The rpm limits are not exceeded. The prompt and intermittent use of higher cylinder pressures help the rings mate w/ the cylinder before they no longer can do so properly. The engine should be at operating temperature (in all cases, even after break-in). Also, change the oil after the first hour, or sooner. NO synthetic until after break-in. Change the filter at each oil change ( of course). Now said, this will, like usual, start up the camps - trust the rings to seat on their own to a great degree, or 'thrust' them into the cylinder liner(s) to help them reduce blow-by and leakage. Now, aren't ya glad ya asked? Mike Torst Las Vegas

> -----Original Message----- > From: kerrysautoart2000 [mailto:kerrysautoart2000@...] > Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 2:23 AM > To: vegasklr@... > Subject: break-in > > What did you mean when you said "do it in the manner of pushing the > rings outward"?.....never heard that phrase before! Do you mean break > it in hard? Just curious! Thanks

[Jimmy]

New member requesting assistance from your collective knowledge on the proper break in. I know what the book say's, but I would rather hear from the group. I apolagize in advance.I am sure this subject has come up many times. Thanks, Jimmy A6F Red. Aztec Red. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]