wd-40 data

DSN_KLR650
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Bogdan Swider
Posts: 2759
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 2:04 pm

doohickey adjustment

Post by Bogdan Swider » Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:49 pm

> So... I loosened the six fasteners that hold the skid plate on, and slid > it > forward to expose the adjuster. >
That's why I cut a notch in my plate - couple minutes with a hack saw.
> Test ride and one of the noises I swear is gone, the bike is (I swear) > smoother, and best of all, the snatch I felt at very low revs (at > walking > pace) is gone (I swear). >
Have heard the same pre/post adjustment difference myself.
> Do you folks think this adjuster had never been done for the first 2k > (now) > miles? >
Probably never been done but it didn't have to be as the chain wasn't stretched yet.
> Are there observable symptoms when the adjustment is past-due? >
Yes the one's you've observed.
> I will be taking the bike in for its next scheduled service and I > suppose I > should remove the skid plate first (or drill a new hole opposite the > adjuster) >
That would work too.
> so that I'm not charged extra labor (although the oil drain hole > is accessible). I will be asking specifically if they do the adjustment > or > not. >
Why ? you just did the deed. Bogdan, surfer in Colorado

PauL M. Bober

doohickey adjustment

Post by PauL M. Bober » Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:54 pm

Do the doohickey! Either yourself or have the dealer. It is possible you may not have any problems, but then again, isn't Slick 50 supposed to last for the life of your engine? PauL M. Bober -----Original Message----- From: Jim The Canoeist [mailto:jwalsh21@...] Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 2:50 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Doohickey Adjustment I looked for the plug and adjuster that locks the doohickey and it is shrouded by the aftermarket skid plate. The prior owner told me the first service was done at a Kawi dealer and the bike had only 1k miles when I acquired it. Horrors! Do you suppose the skid plate mod was done before taking the bike in and do you suppose the adjustment might thus have been missed/skipped? So... I loosened the six fasteners that hold the skid plate on, and slid it forward to expose the adjuster. I pulled the plug off with my fingers and loosened the adjuster 1.5 turns and then tightened snug but not with over-force. Test ride and one of the noises I swear is gone, the bike is (I swear) smoother, and best of all, the snatch I felt at very low revs (at walking pace) is gone (I swear). Do you folks think this adjuster had never been done for the first 2k (now) miles? Are there observable symptoms when the adjustment is past-due? I will be taking the bike in for its next scheduled service and I suppose I should remove the skid plate first (or drill a new hole opposite the adjuster) so that I'm not charged extra labor (although the oil drain hole is accessible). I will be asking specifically if they do the adjustment or not. -Jim Walsh in (I swear) AZ List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Lewis Goode
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2003 12:01 pm

doohickey adjustment

Post by Lewis Goode » Mon Aug 30, 2004 5:59 am

Having previously changed to the new doohickey and spring, it was time for an adjustment. I loosened the adjustment screw too far. This allowed the lever to slip on the shaft enough to come into contact with the starter clutch gear. So, I removed the left cover again and fixed the problem. I even ground the lever a little more with a Dremel Tool. I'm wondering if I got the chain too tight. I noticed the gas mileage dropped after a full tank by about 40 MPG. Sound wise, the motor has a very slight difference in sound. I thought it was a good sound as the motor felt very smooth and brand-new tight. It would be easy enough to just loosen the chain. Any thoughts? Lewis [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Donald Robel Jr.
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 10:15 pm

doohickey adjustment

Post by Donald Robel Jr. » Mon Jun 06, 2005 11:15 pm

Hello to the group, I just wanted to first say hello to y'all. I am new to the KLR myself and Am learning a lot about it from this group postings. What I was wandering is I hear people talk about listening for noise while adjusting the balancer chain (the doohickey). What are the noises I should be listening for. I was also interested do theses bikes have a thermastat in them and if so are they dependable or should I carry a spare. And last are there any problems that I should address on this bike because it will be ridden a lot. I performed a Oil and filter change at 70 miles to clean all the crud out of the filter and oil from the initial metal filings from break-in. I just changed the oil and filter again at 575 mile . Now I'll go for the longer oil changes. Anythhing you could help me with will be appreciated a lot, Thank you Don --------------------------------- Discover Yahoo! Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it out! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

macvalk

doohickey adjustment

Post by macvalk » Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:31 am

Replaced my Doohickey about 2k miles ago. Going to do oil change and adjust it today. Is there any way to tell if its moving and adjusting correctly through the port, can you hear or see anything to confirm that it did adjust? Simple minds want to know;-) BTW, change my first rear tire this weekend, took about an hour, didn't pinch tube all went well-well nearly all. Even though I didn't adjust the chain tensioner nuts, they came loose and I lost the left plate, washer and two nuts, when I did a quick test ride-live and learn. Jmac 05 KLR 96 Valkyrie-gathering dust.

Doug Herr
Posts: 727
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:02 pm

doohickey adjustment

Post by Doug Herr » Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:18 pm

On Mon, 10 Apr 2006, macvalk wrote:
> Replaced my Doohickey about 2k miles ago. Going to do oil change and > adjust it today. Is there any way to tell if its moving and adjusting > correctly through the port, can you hear or see anything to confirm > that it did adjust? Simple minds want to know;-)
You can add a glass window for this, but otherwise it is hard to know for sure. If you use an automotive Stethoscope you may hear something and after the work you may just be able to tell that it is quieter, but then that could just be the power of suggestion. -- Doug Herr doug@...

revmaaatin
Posts: 1727
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:07 pm

wd-40 data

Post by revmaaatin » Mon Apr 10, 2006 6:38 pm

Hi John, Have you figured out a way to mount spud-gun on a KLR, talk about being a KiLaRista! I have shot one of those babies, and what a hoot. That would make a great campfire toy. Personally, I would prefer a mad-max pistol-model that you could use on a cage...probably just end up in jail. I built a bottle rocket canon in college and would shoot it at cars, targeting the windshield, (7th floor dorm, constant bearing, decreasing range) and it worked great, until the car I targeted one night was an unmarked campus cop. When the cop-like occupants boiled out of the car, suddenly, no one else wanted to shoot the bottle rocket cannon, and certainly, no one wanted to be the one holding it when the police shook down the dorm. Alas, the bottle rocket canon met 'sudden retirement' at the hands of its imaginative inventor, who to this day, remains jail free, but then, there is always tomorrow. revmaaatin. tales from the days when it was just 'maaatin'. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "scarysharkface" wrote:
> > I've found that WD-40 will launch a spud nearly a quarter-mile,
and
> seems to lubricate the barrel more effectively than Aqua-Net... > > John > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Norloff" > wrote: > > > > This is a good time to look at the Material Safety Data Sheet > (MSDS) the WD-40 Company publishes for WD-40. > > > > It's mostly solvent (45-50% Stoddard's Solvent, also called
Varsol).
> > It's 15-25% light machine oil. > > Google the CAS numbers for further info. > > > > http://www.wd40.com/Brands/pdfs/msds-wd40_aerosol.us.pdf > > Aliphatic Petroleum Distillates 45-50% > > Petroleum Base Oil 15-25% > > > > > > ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- > > From: "Greg Guithues" > > Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2006 10:51:53 -0400 > > > > >On 4/7/06, Bill Watson wrote: > > >> I know there are a lot of opinions out there on this, but I > thought I'd just report the data. The reason I wrote today? I > finally had to adjust my factory o-ring chain for the first
time...
> at 12,000 miles!!. I've been using WD-40 as the only chain lube > since new. I turned each adjusting nut one turn today, moving the > rear wheel back a whopping 0.05 inch. > > >> > > >> Granted, I'm pretty easy on a chain - pretty unagressive > riding - so take that for what it's worth. But I'm clearly a
convert
> at this point, it is sure cleaner than what I've used in the past
and
> I'm thrilled to have made it 12K on one chain adjustment. I'll > continue using it as a lube and see how far I make it on the stock > chain. > > >> > > >> Bill Watson > > >> Phoenix > > >> > > > > > > > > >Hi Bill, everybody, > > > > > >I normally lurk (I don't have a KLR) but I'd like to insert a > little > > >tech info re WD40 and o-ring drive chains. > > > > > >1) WD40 is not a good lubricant, it's a cleaner. Think
Kerosene
> in a > > >spray can. You don't want dirt/sand/grit rubbing on the moving > parts > > >of your chain, and WD40 cleans that stuff off well. > > > > > >2) The chain is internally lubricated; hence the o-rings. Lube > stays > > >on the bearing surfaces so long as the o-rings are intact. This > > >should be a long time, if you keep the grit off the chain as
much
> as > > >possible. (that's where the WD40 comes in). Spraying the
chain
> with > > >WD40 rinses the grit off the chain, and away from the o-rings. > > > > > >3) The chain should last a long time if most of your riding is > > >unaggressive. Clutch dumping wheelies and all-out hill climbs
put
> the > > >most stress on a chain. Keep the chain clean and inspect and > replace > > >sprockets regularly and your chain should last a very long time. > > > > > >-Greg Guithues. > > >800 miles from home, I ride a BMW > > >Dayton, Ohio / Oklahoma City > > > > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at:
www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
> > >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

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