klr cutch discs/steels for sale

[Jimmie A.]

I had a issue while adjusting my valves and broke a cam cap, the piece fell into the chain and throw the timing off and the valves hit the piston at low speed. This is kinda a long story. 1999 KLR 13,000 miles well cared for. I have changed the caps and set the cam timing correctly as far as I can tell, I have a running spare motor and back checked to it also. With the timing mark on the third mark (T) the two cams are even with the head and pointing forward. I ran the bike and I had good bottom end but no top end. Died at 3000 or there abouts, about 50- 55 MPH. I measured vacuum and while starting, throttle closed, it is major, like -30" hg. I did a compression check and got 70 or so PSI. I did a static PSI check where I put pressure into the cylinder with a power bar on the cylinder, I started at 30 PSI and heard a leak around the rings, into the crankcase. I removed the rad cap, checked the muffler and the carbee, no leaks. I added about an ounce or two oil into the cylinder and the bubble type leak quit. I upped the PSI to 60 and no sound of leaks, no power bar on the crank, for a minite or so. My friend said move the timing ahead a few degrees, that almost broke my arm as the cylinder spun ahead quickly, as the intake valves opened. I had the cylinder at TDC for a while with 60 PSI on it, no power bar and it stayed there. I started the bike after and lots of oil smoke due to the ounce of oil I added, no oil smoke before that, as far as I can tell. I put a new plug into the bike today, before this, old one wasn't bad. I have come to the conclusion that I have a carbee problem. At some point I have had the top off the carb, last winter I guess. Maybe I didn't get the diaphram on right? I took the diaphram off today and cut it, it didn't fit well, stretched due to gasoline. New one coming. The bike was running good before I worked on the valves. No oil buring etc. I had the carb apart so I think I may have gotten it back togeather wrong, not that hard to do. The carb is vacuum secondaries so if there is a leak it wouldn't work. Anyone have any advice to give? I will take the bike out for one more run before I float test it. I will try to glue the diaphram togeather for now to test if for good performance. The problem I have is that I have a buyer for the other motor, and want to tell them yes or no. I think that this origional motor is good, I just have to sort out these little problems. My hunch is that this origional motor has small problems, nothing major so it is OK to let the other motor go, does that sound reasonable? JimmieA.

[wannabsmooth1]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jimmie A." wrote:

> > I had a issue while adjusting my valves and broke a cam cap, the > piece fell into the chain and throw the timing off and the valves > hit the piston at low speed. > > This is kinda a long story. 1999 KLR 13,000 miles well cared for. > > I have changed the caps and set the cam timing correctly as far as I > can tell, I have a running spare motor and back checked to it also. > With the timing mark on the third mark (T) the two cams are even > with the head and pointing forward. I ran the bike and I had good > bottom end but no top end. Died at 3000 or there abouts, about 50- > 55 MPH. I measured vacuum and while starting, throttle closed, it > is major, like -30" hg. I did a compression check and got 70 or so > PSI. I did a static PSI check where I put pressure into the > cylinder with a power bar on the cylinder, I started at 30 PSI and > heard a leak around the rings, into the crankcase. I removed the > rad cap, checked the muffler and the carbee, no leaks. I added > about an ounce or two oil into the cylinder and the bubble type leak > quit. I upped the PSI to 60 and no sound of leaks, no power bar on > the crank, for a minite or so. My friend said move the timing ahead > a few degrees, that almost broke my arm as the cylinder spun ahead > quickly, as the intake valves opened. I had the cylinder at TDC for > a while with 60 PSI on it, no power bar and it stayed there. I > started the bike after and lots of oil smoke due to the ounce of oil > I added, no oil smoke before that, as far as I can tell. I put a > new plug into the bike today, before this, old one wasn't bad. > > I have come to the conclusion that I have a carbee problem. At some > point I have had the top off the carb, last winter I guess. Maybe > I didn't get the diaphram on right? I took the diaphram off today > and cut it, it didn't fit well, stretched due to gasoline. New one > coming. > > The bike was running good before I worked on the valves. No oil > buring etc. I had the carb apart so I think I may have gotten it > back togeather wrong, not that hard to do. The carb is vacuum > secondaries so if there is a leak it wouldn't work. > > Anyone have any advice to give? I will take the bike out for one > more run before I float test it. I will try to glue the diaphram > togeather for now to test if for good performance. > > The problem I have is that I have a buyer for the other motor, and > want to tell them yes or no. I think that this origional motor is > good, I just have to sort out these little problems. My hunch is > that this origional motor has small problems, nothing major so it is > OK to let the other motor go, does that sound reasonable? > > JimmieA. >

JimmieA You don't say you checked the valves clearances since they hit the head. Have you done that? Sometimes the valves are bent, and not longer seat properly. Another issue the the pin that locates the cam sprocket to the camshaft. Another guy had hos valves hit the piston, and partially sheared the pin. The cam timing is also changed when this happens. A bad diaphragm will also kill top end. all the best, Mike

[revmaaatin]

Hi Jimmie, Do YOU have a technical issue with the engine? Would YOU install it as is, and expect it to be OK? Tell the buyer what you just told us, and then offer, "'no guarantee', this is all I know." Give full disclosure, he will appreciate it. Many readers here are very dedicated to the KLR and operate on strict budgets, and would hate to get hosed by another KLR rider...which would be a detriment to you, as much as the buyer. Again, Would YOU install it as is, and expect it to be OK? revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jimmie A." wrote: > > I had a issue while adjusting my valves and broke a cam cap, the > piece fell into the chain and throw the timing off and the valves > hit the piston at low speed. > > This is kinda a long story. 1999 KLR 13,000 miles well cared for. > > I have changed the caps and set the cam timing correctly as far as I > can tell, I have a running spare motor and back checked to it also. > With the timing mark on the third mark (T) the two cams are even > with the head and pointing forward. I ran the bike and I had good > bottom end but no top end. Died at 3000 or there abouts, about 50- > 55 MPH. I measured vacuum and while starting, throttle closed, it > is major, like -30" hg. I did a compression check and got 70 or so > PSI. I did a static PSI check where I put pressure into the > cylinder with a power bar on the cylinder, I started at 30 PSI and > heard a leak around the rings, into the crankcase. I removed the > rad cap, checked the muffler and the carbee, no leaks. I added > about an ounce or two oil into the cylinder and the bubble type leak > quit. I upped the PSI to 60 and no sound of leaks, no power bar on > the crank, for a minite or so. My friend said move the timing ahead > a few degrees, that almost broke my arm as the cylinder spun ahead > quickly, as the intake valves opened. I had the cylinder at TDC for > a while with 60 PSI on it, no power bar and it stayed there. I > started the bike after and lots of oil smoke due to the ounce of oil > I added, no oil smoke before that, as far as I can tell. I put a > new plug into the bike today, before this, old one wasn't bad. > > I have come to the conclusion that I have a carbee problem. At some > point I have had the top off the carb, last winter I guess. Maybe > I didn't get the diaphram on right? I took the diaphram off today > and cut it, it didn't fit well, stretched due to gasoline. New one > coming. > > The bike was running good before I worked on the valves. No oil > buring etc. I had the carb apart so I think I may have gotten it > back togeather wrong, not that hard to do. The carb is vacuum > secondaries so if there is a leak it wouldn't work. > > Anyone have any advice to give? I will take the bike out for one > more run before I float test it. I will try to glue the diaphram > togeather for now to test if for good performance. > > The problem I have is that I have a buyer for the other motor, and > want to tell them yes or no. I think that this origional motor is > good, I just have to sort out these little problems. My hunch is > that this origional motor has small problems, nothing major so it is > OK to let the other motor go, does that sound reasonable? > > JimmieA. >

[klrcarl]

How come no brake companies seem to know that the post-96 KLR has EIGHT plates, not seven?? Due to some weirdness with EBC brakes, I have lots of left-over clutch stuff. Instead of selling it all, I thought it would be nice to sell just one disk & steel at a time. Since all factory/aftermarket clutch kits are one disk & steel short for post-96 bikes(at least, that I have found), you would just need the kit from the dealer, one disc & steel from me, plus the right springs(they changed those in 96 too)to do your clutch properly. Confused yet? Email me with questions. If someone really wants everything, here is what I have: 12 clutch discs(any year) 6 steels(any year) 10 springs(pre-96 only) I would consider $40 for everything or maybe $5 for a disc & steel(plus $5 shipping) Carl Larson Seattle, WA

[Jimmie A.]

I'm sorry but you have totally missed the point maybe I don't do English as well as I thought I did! I have two engines. The origional 1999 KLR motor is the one I'm talking about here. I have to make sure this 1999 motor is running well before I let the spare motor I have go to the new buyer. The new buyer is well aware of this by the way. If I have a problem with my origional 99 motor and go and sell this spare motor before I know that the 99 motor is good I would be kind of stupid don't you think? I'm not a hoser and I don't like your insinuation that I am. Before you make these kinds of statements you should read the post carefully. JimmieA.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > Hi Jimmie, > > Do YOU have a technical issue with the engine? Would YOU install it > as is, and expect it to be OK? > > Tell the buyer what you just told us, and then offer, "'no > guarantee', this is all I know." Give full disclosure, he will > appreciate it. Many readers here are very dedicated to the KLR and > operate on strict budgets, and would hate to get hosed by another > KLR rider...which would be a detriment to you, as much as the buyer. > > Again, Would YOU install it as is, and expect it to be OK? > > revmaaatin. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jimmie A." wrote: > > > > I had a issue while adjusting my valves and broke a cam cap, the > > piece fell into the chain and throw the timing off and the valves > > hit the piston at low speed. > > > > This is kinda a long story. 1999 KLR 13,000 miles well cared for. > > > > I have changed the caps and set the cam timing correctly as far as > I > > can tell, I have a running spare motor and back checked to it > also. > > With the timing mark on the third mark (T) the two cams are even > > with the head and pointing forward. I ran the bike and I had good > > bottom end but no top end. Died at 3000 or there abouts, about 50- > > 55 MPH. I measured vacuum and while starting, throttle closed, > it > > is major, like -30" hg. I did a compression check and got 70 or > so > > PSI. I did a static PSI check where I put pressure into the > > cylinder with a power bar on the cylinder, I started at 30 PSI and > > heard a leak around the rings, into the crankcase. I removed the > > rad cap, checked the muffler and the carbee, no leaks. I added > > about an ounce or two oil into the cylinder and the bubble type > leak > > quit. I upped the PSI to 60 and no sound of leaks, no power bar > on > > the crank, for a minite or so. My friend said move the timing > ahead > > a few degrees, that almost broke my arm as the cylinder spun ahead > > quickly, as the intake valves opened. I had the cylinder at TDC > for > > a while with 60 PSI on it, no power bar and it stayed there. I > > started the bike after and lots of oil smoke due to the ounce of > oil > > I added, no oil smoke before that, as far as I can tell. I put a > > new plug into the bike today, before this, old one wasn't bad. > > > > I have come to the conclusion that I have a carbee problem. At > some > > point I have had the top off the carb, last winter I guess. > Maybe > > I didn't get the diaphram on right? I took the diaphram off today > > and cut it, it didn't fit well, stretched due to gasoline. New > one > > coming. > > > > The bike was running good before I worked on the valves. No oil > > buring etc. I had the carb apart so I think I may have gotten it > > back togeather wrong, not that hard to do. The carb is vacuum > > secondaries so if there is a leak it wouldn't work. > > > > Anyone have any advice to give? I will take the bike out for one > > more run before I float test it. I will try to glue the diaphram > > togeather for now to test if for good performance. > > > > The problem I have is that I have a buyer for the other motor, and > > want to tell them yes or no. I think that this origional motor is > > good, I just have to sort out these little problems. My hunch is > > that this origional motor has small problems, nothing major so it > is > > OK to let the other motor go, does that sound reasonable? > > > > JimmieA. > > >