terminal tweety problem/ forged or cast piston?

[klrcoug]

Adjusting chain yesterday I noticed the chain tension varies as I spin the rear wheel (up on center stand). 15T front, 43T rr. The tension change is pretty noticeable (ie, .5-.75" sag variation). Anyone care to enlighten me? Do I have a problem here? How could this be normal? I thiiiiink the chain is orig (15k mi), but will have to ask PO to be sure. Inquiring minds want to know! s

[Guy B. Young II]

Assuming that the pins are free to rotate and there are no kinks, it sounds like the chain is worn worse in some places than others; I hesitate to use the word 'stretched.' How much total free play does the chain have when on the stand? Guy A16 -----Original Message-----

>From: klrcoug >Sent: Mar 6, 2006 11:49 AM >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] MYSTERY: varying tension on chain > >Adjusting chain yesterday I noticed the chain tension varies as I spin the rear wheel (up on >center stand). 15T front, 43T rr. The tension change is pretty noticeable (ie, .5-.75" sag >variation). > >Anyone care to enlighten me? Do I have a problem here? How could this be normal? > >I thiiiiink the chain is orig (15k mi), but will have to ask PO to be sure. > >Inquiring minds want to know! > >s

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Mar 6, 2006, at 8:49 AM, klrcoug wrote:

> Anyone care to enlighten me? Do I have a problem here? How could > this be normal?

You have a worn chain. With that much variance it sounds like your chain may be toast. Per the owner's manual, p. 89, measure the length of 20 links from the center of one pin to the center of the 21st pin. If the length exceeds 323mm (12.7"), the chain should be replaced. Fred at Arrowhead sells (for a whopping $0.97) a handy little ruler (part #415-630) that will measure the correct number of links and quickly show you if your chain is good or not. Throw it into your order the next time you buy a spark plug (or whatever). -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[klrcoug]

Thanks, Blake, and others. It seems odd that it would wear more in some sections of the chain than others. What mileage has been reported as "normal" life of a routinely oiled chain? s

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Blake Sobiloff wrote: > > On Mar 6, 2006, at 8:49 AM, klrcoug wrote: > > Anyone care to enlighten me? Do I have a problem here? How could > > this be normal? > > You have a worn chain. With that much variance it sounds like your > chain may be toast. Per the owner's manual, p. 89, measure the length > of 20 links from the center of one pin to the center of the 21st pin. > If the length exceeds 323mm (12.7"), the chain should be replaced. > > Fred at Arrowhead sells (for a whopping $0.97) a handy little ruler > (part #415-630) that will measure the correct number of links and > quickly show you if your chain is good or not. Throw it into your > order the next time you buy a spark plug (or whatever). > -- > Blake Sobiloff > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> > San Jose, CA (USA) >

[Guy B. Young II]

For a quality o-ring chain, "oiled" only plays a very small part of chain life. Proper adjustment and tension are key in getting the maximum life from a chain. Unfortunately, due to the offset of the countershaft sprocket and swingarm pivot AND the amount of suspension travel, getting the KLR's chain adjusted properly can be a real PITA until you've figured out how much free play should be introduced into the adjustment. Even then, it's best to throw your buttocks over the seat to compress the suspension, then reach down to see how much free play you have. I'd hate to think how many of "us" are running around with mis-adjusted chains, read - too tight.. Guy A16 -----Original Message-----

>From: klrcoug >Sent: Mar 6, 2006 2:04 PM >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: MYSTERY: varying tension on chain > >Thanks, Blake, and others. It seems odd that it would wear more in some sections of the >chain than others. > >What mileage has been reported as "normal" life of a routinely oiled chain? > >s > >--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Blake Sobiloff wrote: >> >> On Mar 6, 2006, at 8:49 AM, klrcoug wrote: >> > Anyone care to enlighten me? Do I have a problem here? How could >> > this be normal? >> >> You have a worn chain. With that much variance it sounds like your >> chain may be toast. Per the owner's manual, p. 89, measure the length >> of 20 links from the center of one pin to the center of the 21st pin. >> If the length exceeds 323mm (12.7"), the chain should be replaced. >> >> Fred at Arrowhead sells (for a whopping $0.97) a handy little ruler >> (part #415-630) that will measure the correct number of links and >> quickly show you if your chain is good or not. Throw it into your >> order the next time you buy a spark plug (or whatever). >> -- >> Blake Sobiloff >> http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> >> San Jose, CA (USA) >> > > > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

That is normal for a worn chain. I can't remember a chain that stretched perfectly evenly. Usually, somewhere in a motorcycle service manual, it will have a maximum length per a certain number of links. If any part of the chain exceeds that spec, then it's time to replace the chain. Don't know where the spec is for the KLR, as I am new KLR owner. But this is standard maintenance on any chain driven vehicle. Should be under final drive, chain, rear suspension, etc. in service manual. I have also seen specs where the chain is laid on the ground, and curved like a snake. Excessive curve means excessive pin/side plate wear. Jeff A20 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Analog Aardvark]

As others have said, your chain is unevenly worn. It's normal and symptomatic of a dying chain. As far as how long they last, it seems to depend a lot on what you ride and how nicely you treat it. The stock chain on my bike was absolutely toasted at 8k when I bought it. PO used chain wax, but we shouldn't open that can of worms. I've got almost that much again on the new chain, and it's in decent shape still. So, get a new chain. And in the meantime, make sure it's not too tight. Spin the wheel to get the chain at it's tightest, THEN adjust your slack. I had this problem on my nighthawk a few years ago and tried to get "just one more trip" out of it. Had the chain a touch too tight and it snapped the cast-in bolt on the adjuster on that side, which then allowed the too-tight chain to pull the axle forward (out of alignement), throwing the chain and locking the rear wheel on a rainy dark highway 200 miles from home. Lesson quickly learned--too loose is better than too tight, and just right beats em both. When I adjust the chain I turn the preload down to 1 and then sort of hunch over the bike from the back with my chest on the rack. I can grab the swingarm with my gorilla limbs and pull pretty much all the way down that way. Full compression = tightest chain. -Luke

> Anyone care to enlighten me? Do I have a problem > here? How could this be normal? > > I thiiiiink the chain is orig (15k mi), but will > have to ask PO to be sure. > > Inquiring minds want to know! > > s > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: >

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html

> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: > www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: > www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > >

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[Blake Sobiloff]

On Mar 7, 2006, at 5:16 AM, Analog Aardvark wrote:

> Full compression = tightest chain.

I thought the chain was tightest when the front sprocket, the swingarm pivot, and the rear sprocket were all in a line? (I guess I'm also assuming that the rear suspension will allow the rear sprocket to move higher than the swingarm pivot.) -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Mar 7, 2006, at 3:32 PM, Andrew Tuning wrote:

> I am trying to decide now on a Forged or cast piston. > Anyone with an opinion?

If you have the dosh, why not go for the forged? Anything that will reduce the inertia inside that big jug has to be a plus for longevity of the entire bike. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)