i think i got kicked off the www.klr650.net website.....

[Randy Bradley]

Hey folks. One year to the day after my 1989 KLR was stolen, it was located by the County Sherrif's Department and returned. It was stripped pretty bad as the thief had tried to turn it into a dirt bike. I purchased all but the frame of a '95 and have been putting the '89 back together with the purchased parts. I have tried to find some instructions for bleeding the front brake, but other than locating ads for speed bleeders, have had no luck. I have only basic knowledge of working on the bike, but have learned a lot about the bike tearing down the '95. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Randy

[dooden]

Have heard good results with just bleeding it really good, then adding a squeeze and holding it there overnight with something to hold it, velcro or whatever. I reckon the idea is the pressure makes the air move to one location so when you do the final bleed they (tiny bubbles) come out. Might try a mighty vac also. Good Luck.. Dooden A15 Green Ape in Hibernating mode

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Bradley" wrote: > > Hey folks. One year to the day after my 1989 KLR was stolen, it was > located by the County Sherrif's Department and returned. It was > stripped pretty bad as the thief had tried to turn it into a dirt > bike. I purchased all but the frame of a '95 and have been putting > the '89 back together with the purchased parts. I have tried to find > some instructions for bleeding the front brake, but other than > locating ads for speed bleeders, have had no luck. I have only basic > knowledge of working on the bike, but have learned a lot about the > bike tearing down the '95. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, Randy >

[Eric Lee Green]

Dooden wrote:

>Have heard good results with just bleeding it really good, then adding >a squeeze and holding it there overnight with something to hold it, >velcro or whatever. > >Might try a mighty vac also. > >

And do go ahead and add the speed bleeders if you're not going to use a mighty vac, they make the job *much* easier in that case (since you don't need gorilla arms or a second person then). The basic technique for bleeding a brake once you have the speed bleeder on is simple. Top up the brake reservoir, put the top back on (to keep brake fluid from fountaining about), hook a small hose to the bleeder going to a small container, open up the bleeder, start pumping the brake while watching the fluid level. It may take a bit of lever-pumping and tapping of the master cylinder to get enough hydraulic fluid into the master cylinder so that you can actually pump anything. Keep an eye on the fluid level and top it back up when it heads down. Just keep pumping until a continuous stream of clean brake fluid with no bubbles is coming out the bleeder. Then close the bleeder, and see how the brake lever feels. Without the speed bleeder, you have to crack open the bleeder as you pump, then close it at the bottom of the stroke, ad infinitum, and it's likely you'll need the mighty vac. Personally, when I changed my front brake line to stainless, I just used the speed bleeder, didn't bother with the mighty vac, and my front brake works fine. -E

>--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Bradley" wrote: >the '89 back together with the purchased parts. I have tried to find >some instructions for bleeding the front brake, but other than >locating ads for speed bleeders, have had no luck. >

[Jeff Saline]

Randy, Here is some generic information that should get you through brake bleeding. I really believe that if you understand how a system works you can figure out how to service or repair it. To understand how the system works you need to understand the basic principles. Disclaimer. This is generic in nature. It should explain the basics but for those reading who possess other knowledge and facts and experience you may want to take this with a grain of salt. Errors are mine as always. Hydraulic brakes operate on the principle that fluids don't compress. When you move fluid at one end of a sealed system the fluid at the other end must move the same amount. For a simple brake system, like on the KLR or BMW Airhead, squeezing the brake lever will move a piston in a master cylinder. The piston will move fluid inside the system and on the other end of the brake system will be a caliper. The caliper has a piston or two that will move and cause brake pads to be squeezed against a brake rotor. The brake rotor is connected to the wheel. When the caliper pistons squeeze the brake pads against the brake rotor the friction will slow the wheel. The master cylinder and the caliper are connected by a brake line. Normally the brake line has flexible and rigid sections. Please reread the first sentence of this paragraph. Air compresses. When a brake system is opened air will normally get into the system. Air compresses and compressed air is stored energy. Kind of like compressing a spring. Since a hydraulic brake system only works correctly using hydraulics and not pneumatic principles you don't want air in the system. When air is in a hydraulic brake system it is similar to having a spring in the system. You may be able to transfer the energy from the master cylinder to the caliper but it will be springy and uneven. That gives the brake lever or pedal a "soft" feel. So the idea is to have a brake system with only brake fluid in the system and no air. To remove the air from a brake system you "bleed" the brakes. This involves moving the fluid and air from the system until only fluid remains. It's a simple task usually and only takes a few minutes with practice. This is what you'll need to do it the way I do it. -Fresh brake fluid from a sealed container. I suggest using DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Some newer equipment will call for DOT 5 brake fluid. Do not mix DOT 3/4 and DOT 5. They are not compatible. -Tin foil to put over parts of the bike you don't want brake fluid to get on. (Brake fluid will damage paint and spills should be washed off) -A turkey baster that will never be used for cooking again. -A small diameter clear hose that will fit snuggly over the brake bleeder on the caliper. This is the part near where the brake line goes into the caliper and looks like a grease fitting. -A bottle or jar to collect used brake fluid. Dispose of the used brake fluid properly when through. Some places will take it with used oil and some won't. I stop by the local Midas shop and the few times I've taken them a sample they've disposed of it for me. -A wrench to fit the brake bleeder. How I usually bleed brakes. I put the tin foil over the fuel tank and other parts so when, yes when, not if, I spill some fluid I don't damage the paint or other parts. I wipe the master cylinder area clean as I don't want to get dirt into the system. I also clean around the brake bleeder. Open the master cylinder. This may take some doing as often the covers are held on with small screws that get stuck. Be careful when removing the screws. Use the turkey baster to suck as much fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir as you can. Some times I find it handy to absorb remaining fluid with a clean paper towel. If there is gunk in the bottom of the reservoir I usually try to wipe it clean. Use the wrench to loosen the brake bleeder. Just make it loose and then gently snug it closed. This in not the time to be using your massive gorilla like strength. Put the clear hose on the brake bleeder and the other end into the bottle or jar. If you leave a loop in the hose the air bubbles won't be able to get back into the caliper and brake system once they are in the hose. Carefully pour some brake fluid into the master cylinder reservoir. Not all the way to the top as you'll probably spill it. Gently squeeze the brake lever. If you pull it too quickly some brake fluid will usually squirt out of the reservoir and onto the tin foil if you are lucky. If you aren't lucky it will land on your fuel tank where you don't see it until the paint is damaged. One or two gentle squeezes should be good. Hold the brake lever in the applied position. While holding the brake lever in the applied position use your third arm to reach down to the bleeder and open it. Since I only have two arms I have the wheel turned to the left and while on the right side of the bike I reach behind the wheel and up to the caliper. I can do this alone. Some folks have trouble with this part. When the bleeder is opened some fluid should go into the hose and the brake lever should move to the grip. Continue to hold the brake lever at the grip and close the brake bleeder screw. This is the beginning of the brake bleeding process. You've begun to move fresh clean air free fluid from the reservoir into the brake system. Only after the bleeder is closed should you slowly release the brake lever and then squeeze it. Slowly as when you squeeze it you should see the brake fluid squirt into the reservoir a bit. If you do it fast it will squirt out of the reservoir and onto the tin foil. That's the last warning to do this slowly and gently. Rapid movement of the brake lever will agitate the brake fluid and often causes air to get into the system. And we're trying to get the air out of the system so why introduce air by rapid lever movements? Squeeze the brake lever and open the bleeder. The lever should move to the grip and fluid should go into the hose. If you see air bubbles you know you are getting them out of the system. Close the bleeder and then release and squeeze the lever once or twice. With the lever squeezed open the bleeder. When the lever moves to the grip close the bleeder. See a pattern here? Squeeze, open, close, release, squeeze, open close, release... Continue to bleed the brakes until fresh clean bubble free fluid comes out of the bleeder. Make sure you keep fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. If you allow the reservoir to drain, the system will suck air and you'll be at the beginning of the task again. Finally when you think you are done check the lever feel. It should be firm and high. If it feels mushy you probably still have some air in the system. If you do have air in the system and just can't seem to bleed it out some folks claim good results with squeezing the brake lever and bungi cording it in the applied position for over night. Then maybe tapping on lines and hoses to help loosen any trapped bubbles. This may help free the bubbles and allowing them to float to the master cylinder. Again, slow gentle brake lever movement will help with the bleeding process. Once you're done make sure the bleeder screw is tight but don't break it off in the caliper. Put the correct amount of brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and put the cover back on. If the cover has a rubber gasket that sticks down a bit you may be able to push it back towards the cap. Make sure the cap seals well. Don't over tighten the screws if that's how the cover is held in place. Clean up the mess you've made kicking over the used brake fluid container and squirting brake fluid out of the master cylinder. Test the brakes a few times just to make sure they are working correctly. Then plan on doing a brake fluid change again in about 12 months. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 15:52:43 -0000 "Randy Bradley" writes:

> Hey folks. One year to the day after my 1989 KLR was stolen, it was > located by the County Sherrif's Department and returned. It was > stripped pretty bad as the thief had tried to turn it into a dirt > bike. I purchased all but the frame of a '95 and have been putting > the '89 back together with the purchased parts. I have tried to find > > some instructions for bleeding the front brake, but other than > locating ads for speed bleeders, have had no luck. I have only basic > > knowledge of working on the bike, but have learned a lot about the > bike tearing down the '95. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, Randy > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[GMac999]

One additional item on Dooden's procedure, make sure the master cylinder is the highest point. I have stainless lines that were above the MC when on a lift. When I put the bike on the side stand, they bled and have worked great ever since. Greg -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dooden Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 10:49 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Bleeding the front brake Have heard good results with just bleeding it really good, then adding a squeeze and holding it there overnight with something to hold it, velcro or whatever. I reckon the idea is the pressure makes the air move to one location so when you do the final bleed they (tiny bubbles) come out. Might try a mighty vac also. Good Luck.. Dooden A15 Green Ape in Hibernating mode --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Bradley" wrote:

> > Hey folks. One year to the day after my 1989 KLR was stolen, it was > located by the County Sherrif's Department and returned. It was > stripped pretty bad as the thief had tried to turn it into a dirt > bike. I purchased all but the frame of a '95 and have been putting > the '89 back together with the purchased parts. I have tried to

find

> some instructions for bleeding the front brake, but other than > locating ads for speed bleeders, have had no luck. I have only

basic

> knowledge of working on the bike, but have learned a lot about the > bike tearing down the '95. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, Randy >

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[Glenn]

That's a real cute story, albeit an awfully demented story. Sure seems as though you feel you did nothing wrong at all. Here's something for you to think about, stop treating people like shit and maybe you'll get the response you are looking for. You obviously justified in your mind the use of insults and rude language at the very beginning of this situation. You had three chances, three separate posts, before I got rude at all.. and that was when you were removed. Like I said before bluntly, it was your fuck up, not mine. You just cannot seem to tolerate the outcome all that well. I would have been happy to help you out or to offer you some advice on the best way to sell the bike, and how to get the most for it. It's just too bad you couldnt control that short temper of yours. Now you're a troll on this list slandering the site. Cheers to everyone else. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "camargo1232000" wrote:

> > Its a badge of honor. I had a dispute with the guy who runs the

board,

> Glenn. He accused me of trying to cheat him out of $15 because I > posted my bike ad in haste and didnt read the sticky. He was a

real

> jerk about it, a complete psycho. > > Good grief, what a baby.... >