Instead do what most list veterans have done which is correcting the overly lean idle mixture. Turn your pilot screw out a turn or so. Opinions vary as to exactly how much. I used the sweet spot method. Here it is. With the engine running turn the screw in until the rpms decrease and note where that happens. Then do the same turning the screw out. The setting between the two is the sweet spot. Bogdan> with a touch of choke (once I get it running), which seems to make it > happy???
nklr-rear end collision (morality)
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cold
Having said that, will it hurt anything to instead ride
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cold
Blake Sobiloff wrote:
The deal is that it is *time* that counts in this equation. A motor under load warms up faster than a motor at idle. Thus the fastest way to warm up the engine is to ride (gently) with the choke on for a little bit after "warming up" for 30 seconds or so to give your oil time to get from the crankcase up to the valve galleries. So if the idle enricher can't be turned off after 30 seconds without the engine stumbling, leave it on (as little as possible) until you've warmed up the engine a bit more by riding gently down the street (another 30 seconds will generally do it). I have another bike that's notoriously balky in cold weather, and had to follow that recipe in 35 degree weather. _E>Depending on the amount of "choke" (really fuel enricher) you use, >and how long you use it, you may cause fuel dilution of your oil. > >
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To some extent it is OK to use the choke, but use the minimum required to keep the engine running. Too much choke means extra fuel (unburned) is in the engine, which washes the oil from the cylinder walls, gas contamination in the oil if you don't thouroughly warm the oil, leading to greatly increased wear. A fould spark plug is the least of your worries.
Jeff A20
-----Original Message-----
From: scott quillen
To: scarysharkface ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 8 Dec 2005 08:23:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Cold
John,
Running with your choke on (just a touch) shouldn't hurt anything other than
increasing fuel consumption a bit and leading to early plug fouling if you run
like that for too long.
Scott
scarysharkface wrote:
I almost don't have enough choke to start my A18 when it's 20 degrees.
Oil and/or battery charge aren't an issue whatsoever. The issue is
getting a rich enough mixture for it to fire. It turns over very
happily, even when I have to crank it several times. Sooo, I think
enriching the mixture is probably the cure. Even after significant
warmup it still doesn't really like cold weather (hesitates,
etcetera). Having said that, will it hurt anything to instead ride
with a touch of choke (once I get it running), which seems to make it
happy???
Thanks,
John
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I had a friend that ended up with an engine rebuild because he ran too
long and too much choke (accidentally).
If you have to much choke it can wash the cylinder, therefore washing
the oil away.
A good rule of thumb is to turn off the choke as soon as possible.
If you can't keep it running without the choke, start looking for
other reasons like float level, dirty or un-adjusted jets. Perhaps
just a good old fasion carb rebuild would be a good start.
Good luck
Rod
multisurfacemotorcycling.com
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cold
Thanks for the responses. I will try the sweet spot method as soon as
I can get to it, as I think that will probably solve or at least help
the cold weather starting problem. If I happen to ride it before then
I will use as little choke as possible until it warms up.
john
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cold
Running rich is harmful to the engine, for extended periods.
The excess fuel will wash down the cylinder walls, removing the oil
that should stay put. No oil on the cylinder walls means excessive
wear.
Whenever I encounter a "lack of enough choke" problem, I always
suspect (and usually I am correct) a leak somewhere. If excess air
is getting into the cylinder via carb problem, manifold crack, bad
gasket, etc... it will take half of the choke just to normalize,
then the other half isn't enough to be "full", it's like it's half
choked because air is sucking in somewhere.
A way to check if you have a leak, is to get the bike running in an
open area (not in a confined space), get a soldering torch fueled by
propane gas. Turn the gas on, but don't light the torch. VERY
CAREFULLY, trace around suspected areas (gaskets, etc) with the end
of the torch, if there is a leak, the propane will get sucked in and
the RPM's will rise.... there's your problem.
Good luck!
Keith
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nklr-rear end collision (morality)
Hi Andy,
I learn a lot from the experiences of others, and also been stuck
from behind, with more fortuante results. Presently, I work in the
world of "sinners and others", morality and the lack thereof, thick
with excuses and justifiction.... but for someone to run after an
accidental (near) murder is difficult to justify.
In cases like this, I have to believe that God's sense of justice
will come full circle for those who stuck you. And then, when they
are caught, folks like me will have to plumb the depth of their
souls as they seek repenetance for sins such as this, the comlete
disregard for the life of another.
revmaaatin.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Andrus Chesley"
wrote:
in> > I ain't got lots to say about that. I was left in a ditch for dead
were> '86 from a rear end hit and run. The only people who witnessed it
or> more concerned about getting me help than what the car looked like
to> the plate numbers. I came to in a hospital a hours later and still
car> this day don't have any recollections of the wreck. I was at a stop > sign in a light rain on the outskirts of a small town waiting on a
then.> to cross when I was hit from the back. > Was 5 to 6 years before I could ride again due to a vertigo problem > caused by concussion thru a good hat. > My fist bike on the come back trail was a '92 KLR 650 and since
40> I probably have about 150 thousand miles on 7 different bikes and
> states. > > '43 Andy in SW Louisiana > '00 KLR 650 > '02 R1150GSA >
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