aftermarket plastics

[rick.edward.robinson@us.army.mil]

Hey folks, I am in the Army and getting ready to head off to Iraq for a year and unfortunately, my KLR will have to sit idle in the garage. What sort of maintenance do you recommend I do to prepare it to sit for that long? I am in Colorado, so It will see some pretty cold temps this Winter. BTW...I will be keeping up with the group while I'm overseas (I'll have live vicariously through you guys for a while). This is a very professional forum from which I have benefited greatly. I appreciate all of those who spend their time lending assistance to amateurs like myself. Rick

[Arden Kysely]

Fill your battery to the proper level, wipe it down real good, charge it up, and put it in the fridge. If you put in on a BatteryTender for a year, it will charge on and off, probably enough in a year to run the electrolyte down. I've never actually done this, but a Yuasa rep told me that batteries do quite well in the cold (not freezing), since the chemical reactions inside slow way down. Keep your head and good luck 8~) __Arden

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, wrote: > > Hey folks, > > I am in the Army and getting ready to head off to Iraq for a year and unfortunately, my KLR will have to sit idle in the garage. What sort of maintenance do you recommend I do to prepare it to sit for that long? I am in Colorado, so It will see some pretty cold temps this Winter. > > BTW...I will be keeping up with the group while I'm overseas (I'll have live vicariously through you guys for a while). This is a very professional forum from which I have benefited greatly. I appreciate all of those who spend their time lending assistance to amateurs like myself. > > Rick >

[Jeff Saline]

Rick, Here's what I suggest you consider. As long as the bike won't be stored where the sun will shine on it and give you some significant, rapid, temperature changes you probably won't have to worry too much about condensation. Buy a cover at say Walmart for about $20 or so. I think their extra large will fit well. Clean the bike and wax the metal parts. Put a protective coating like armor all or son of a gun on the seat. Change the oil and filter after you get the engine to operating temperature. A ride is probably the best way to get to temperature and if you make it a good ride you'll be able to enjoy it in your mind while in Iraq. Changing the oil will remove most of the contaminates in the crankcase. When you have new oil in the bike only run the engine long enough to circulate it in the lubrication system. Maybe a 20 second engine run with no choke if possible. Even better would be to just crank the engine for 10 seconds without starting the bike. Wait a solid 2 minutes and then do it again. Remove the battery and write a note stating the battery size, terminal orientation etc and place it in the battery compartment. That way you'll have the information when you return the bike to service. Someone wrote about fully charging the battery and then putting it in the refrigerator. I don't know that I would go that far but if I did I'd make sure I put it into a plastic bag. The acid will not be good for the inside of the frig. I'd just charge the battery and put it in the shop on a piece of wood and probably buy a new one when I returned. I think I'd drain the fuel tank and make sure it's dry inside. Some folks like to store the tank full of fuel to prevent condensation from forming inside. I don't care for that option as the fuel will go stale. And I really don't like additives like Stabil. Condensation will lead to rust problems. Drain the carb, the drain is on the bottom of the float bowl. Lube the chain, that's a good thing to do as soon as you return from the last ride as the chain will be warm to hot. I like white lithium grease in a spray can. I get it at Walmart. A good chain lube should work fine too. Air up the tires to the max pressure on the side wall as that way it will take them longer to go flat. If someone will air them for you every couple of months then normal pressure will work fine. Put the key on a wire tie and attach it to the handlebar crossbar. That way you'll have it when you want to ride again. Park it where you want it to be when you return. Put the cover on it. Deploy. Guess that's about it. I'm sure someone else will pipe in with additional stuff for you to do. Write a note to yourself of what you have to do to start the bike. When you return charge the battery, install it. Put some fresh fuel in the tank, adjust the tire pressure and be careful as you get back on the road. Have a safe deployment and thank you for your service to our country. I sure appreciate it. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 16:04:22 -0700 writes:

> Hey folks, > > I am in the Army and getting ready to head off to Iraq for a year > and unfortunately, my KLR will have to sit idle in the garage. What > sort of maintenance do you recommend I do to prepare it to sit for > that long? I am in Colorado, so It will see some pretty cold temps > this Winter. > > BTW...I will be keeping up with the group while I'm overseas (I'll > have live vicariously through you guys for a while). This is a very > professional forum from which I have benefited greatly. I > appreciate all of those who spend their time lending assistance to > amateurs like myself. > > Rick > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > >

[karim khaldi]

put the bike on a stand so that the tires don't touch the ground.

On 11/16/05, Jeff Saline wrote: > > Rick, > > Here's what I suggest you consider. As long as the bike won't be stored > where the sun will shine on it and give you some significant, rapid, > temperature changes you probably won't have to worry too much about > condensation. Buy a cover at say Walmart for about $20 or so. I think > their extra large will fit well. Clean the bike and wax the metal parts. > Put a protective coating like armor all or son of a gun on the seat. > Change the oil and filter after you get the engine to operating > temperature. A ride is probably the best way to get to temperature and > if you make it a good ride you'll be able to enjoy it in your mind while > in Iraq. Changing the oil will remove most of the contaminates in the > crankcase. When you have new oil in the bike only run the engine long > enough to circulate it in the lubrication system. Maybe a 20 second > engine run with no choke if possible. Even better would be to just crank > the engine for 10 seconds without starting the bike. Wait a solid 2 > minutes and then do it again. Remove the battery and write a note > stating the battery size, terminal orientation etc and place it in the > battery compartment. That way you'll have the information when you > return the bike to service. Someone wrote about fully charging the > battery and then putting it in the refrigerator. I don't know that I > would go that far but if I did I'd make sure I put it into a plastic bag. > The acid will not be good for the inside of the frig. I'd just charge > the battery and put it in the shop on a piece of wood and probably buy a > new one when I returned. I think I'd drain the fuel tank and make sure > it's dry inside. Some folks like to store the tank full of fuel to > prevent condensation from forming inside. I don't care for that option > as the fuel will go stale. And I really don't like additives like > Stabil. Condensation will lead to rust problems. Drain the carb, the > drain is on the bottom of the float bowl. Lube the chain, that's a good > thing to do as soon as you return from the last ride as the chain will be > warm to hot. I like white lithium grease in a spray can. I get it at > Walmart. A good chain lube should work fine too. Air up the tires to > the max pressure on the side wall as that way it will take them longer to > go flat. If someone will air them for you every couple of months then > normal pressure will work fine. Put the key on a wire tie and attach it > to the handlebar crossbar. That way you'll have it when you want to ride > again. Park it where you want it to be when you return. Put the cover > on it. Deploy. Guess that's about it. I'm sure someone else will pipe > in with additional stuff for you to do. Write a note to yourself of what > you have to do to start the bike. When you return charge the battery, > install it. Put some fresh fuel in the tank, adjust the tire pressure > and be careful as you get back on the road. > > Have a safe deployment and thank you for your service to our country. I > sure appreciate it. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org http://www.airheads.org> > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 16:04:22 -0700 > writes: > > Hey folks, > > > > I am in the Army and getting ready to head off to Iraq for a year > > and unfortunately, my KLR will have to sit idle in the garage. What > > sort of maintenance do you recommend I do to prepare it to sit for > > that long? I am in Colorado, so It will see some pretty cold temps > > this Winter. > > > > BTW...I will be keeping up with the group while I'm overseas (I'll > > have live vicariously through you guys for a while). This is a very > > professional forum from which I have benefited greatly. I > > appreciate all of those who spend their time lending assistance to > > amateurs like myself. > > > > Rick > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.comhttp://www.dualsportnews.com> > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.htmlhttp://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html> > > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.comhttp://www.dualsportnews.com> > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.htmlhttp://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html> > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Conall]

Hi Jeff, What don't you like about additives like Stabil? I can't think of any drawbacks other than the cost, so you got me curious. Conall

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > Rick, I think I'd drain the fuel tank and make sure > it's dry inside. Some folks like to store the tank full of fuel to > prevent condensation from forming inside. I don't care for that option > as the fuel will go stale. And I really don't like additives like > Stabil.

[Pat Schmid]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Conall" wrote:

> > Hi Jeff, > What don't you like about additives like Stabil? I can't think of any > drawbacks other than the cost, so you got me curious. > > Conall > >

In this case I'd say turn off the petcock, idle the bowl dry, drain small amount left and then drain the gas tank as well. No matter what you do modern gas doesn't have great shelf life so why fight it? Pat G'ville, NV

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

For what it is worth, aircraft fuel tanks are always stored full of gas to minimize any possibility of condensation. The Sta-bil is designed to further increase the shelf life of a full tank of gas in a tank. If you insist on draining the fuel tank, the worst thing you can do is leave it dry. It will rust. Just look at any old motorcycle that has been sitting. Pour 1/2 quart of motor in the tank and slosh it around. When ready to ride, drain. flush it with gas a couple of times, and refill. Jeff A20 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

Jeff, Parked aircraft normally have rapid and significant temperature changes. They are often stored outside in all kinds of weather conditions. Tanks often in wings with the upper wing surface temperature different from the lower wing surface temperature. I don't think aircraft and KLR storage are equally comparable. But I agree full fuel tanks will normally reduce condensation inside. I do have a tank from a barn queen. It was parked and left for 9 or 10 years. The inside of that tank is pretty nasty, but I can restore it when I have a need to. POR-15 is a wonderful product for lining fuel tanks. If you get the motorcycle kit it has some powerful chemicals that do a pretty good job of removing corrosion and old fuel residue and prepping the metal for later coating. The last tank I did was about 5 years ago and it still looks like new inside. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 22:40:26 EST jokerloco9@... writes:

> For what it is worth, aircraft fuel tanks are always stored full of > gas to > minimize any possibility of condensation. The Sta-bil is designed > to further > increase the shelf life of a full tank of gas in a tank. > > If you insist on draining the fuel tank, the worst thing you can do > is leave > it dry. It will rust. > Just look at any old motorcycle that has been sitting. Pour 1/2 > quart of > motor in the tank and slosh it around. When ready to ride, > drain. flush it > with gas a couple of times, and refill. > > Jeff A20

[Randy Phillips]

I missed a e-mail. What is the best way to clean a rusty tank and prep it? I'm familiar with the cycle shop stuff, but it appears you are talking about some other product. I have a 1960 MotoGuzzi Cardellino and it's perfect other than inside the tank. Randy Idaho - A17 -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Saline Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2005 9:48 PM To: jokerloco9@...; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Headin to the sandbox Jeff, Parked aircraft normally have rapid and significant temperature changes. They are often stored outside in all kinds of weather conditions. Tanks often in wings with the upper wing surface temperature different from the lower wing surface temperature. I don't think aircraft and KLR storage are equally comparable. But I agree full fuel tanks will normally reduce condensation inside. I do have a tank from a barn queen. It was parked and left for 9 or 10 years. The inside of that tank is pretty nasty, but I can restore it when I have a need to. POR-15 is a wonderful product for lining fuel tanks. If you get the motorcycle kit it has some powerful chemicals that do a pretty good job of removing corrosion and old fuel residue and prepping the metal for later coating. The last tank I did was about 5 years ago and it still looks like new inside. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 22:40:26 EST jokerloco9@... writes:

> For what it is worth, aircraft fuel tanks are

always stored full of

> gas to minimize any possibility of condensation.

The Sta-bil is

> designed to further increase the shelf life of

a full tank of gas in

> a tank. > > If you insist on draining the fuel tank, the

worst thing you can do is

> leave it dry. It will rust. > Just look at any old motorcycle that has been

sitting. Pour 1/2 quart

> of > motor in the tank and slosh it around. When

ready to ride,

> drain. flush it > with gas a couple of times, and refill. > > Jeff A20

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[jokerloco9@aol.com]

I'm definitely going to start some trouble here, but this is what I have done a few times: Drain tank. Put about 12 ounces of carb dip cleaner (not carb spray, the carb dip that comes in a gallon can for carb rebuilds). Add a full handfull of small bolts and nuts. Slosh around carefully for a few minutes. Drain. Flush with gas, and check to see if it need more cleaning. If so repeat. This will remove a most of the rust and varnish/gum in the tank. If tank is not leaking, just use it. You probably should run a fuel filter. Note: Be careful when shaking the tank, and you don't want to do it had enough to cause the bolts to make a spark. Kaboom. It would take a heck of a jolt, so just be careful. A solution would to just use brass nuts and bolts. Read postings carefully about the tank coatings. I have read some people have had the coatings flake off, which will likely cause a continuous clogging problem. I suspect the people having problems did so by not prepping the tank properly. Jeff A20 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]