if you want to see what happens to a good group when

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

>I made a post a few weeks ago about my 2000 KLR >650 spewing oil out of >the air box. I took the engine apart and found that a >couple of the >ridges between the piston rings were cracked

These are known as "ring lands". It is normal for blow-by to occur until the compression rings have seated (worn it) which will take a few miles. My advice is to keep an ear out for unusual noises and run it for a 100 miles or so before being concerned. IMO you should avoid idling and use medium RPM for the first 100 miles. Use heavy throttle to provide sufficient gas pressure to ensure that the rings are seated before cylinder and rings are burnished or you may have oil burning and blow-by permanently. The first few miles at least should be hard acceleration with closed throttle deceleration repeated. This will provide good combustion gas pressure to seat the rings and the deceleration in gear will move oil into the ring area for cooling and extra lubrication. Change the oil at about 100 miles, avoid using synthetic oils for the next oil change and you're good to go. HIH Norm P.S. Sorry to be so cryptic but have to get out the door.

[Rodney Copeland]

That's what I'm thinkin. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "April Neave & Norm Keller" wrote:

> > >I made a post a few weeks ago about my 2000 KLR >650 spewing oil

out of

> >the air box. I took the engine apart and found that a >couple of

the

> >ridges between the piston rings were cracked > > These are known as "ring lands". It is normal for blow-by to occur

until the

> compression rings have seated (worn it) which will take a few

miles. My

> advice is to keep an ear out for unusual noises and run it for a

100 miles

> or so before being concerned. IMO you should avoid idling and use

medium RPM

> for the first 100 miles. Use heavy throttle to provide sufficient

gas

> pressure to ensure that the rings are seated before cylinder and

rings are

> burnished or you may have oil burning and blow-by permanently. The

first few

> miles at least should be hard acceleration with closed throttle

deceleration

> repeated. This will provide good combustion gas pressure to seat

the rings

> and the deceleration in gear will move oil into the ring area for

cooling

> and extra lubrication. Change the oil at about 100 miles, avoid

using

> synthetic oils for the next oil change and you're good to go. > > HIH > > Norm > P.S. Sorry to be so cryptic but have to get out the door. >

[Rick McCauley]

Kawasaki (the creator of the engine) says to break it in gently. Why would you do it any other way? I babied my bike for the fisrt 500 miles, had the check up done, and for the next 500 I drove it a little more aggressive, but never exceeding 6,000 rpm's as Kawasaki recommends. My bike now has 6,900 miles on it and i have never had to add any oil between changes. My bike pulls strong, and gets just under 60 miles to the gallon. My friend bought his bike the same day i bought mine. He broke his in the same way, and his runs flawlessly too My advise, break it in the way the designer says. Rick A17 Rodney Copeland wrote: That's what I'm thinkin. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm --------------------------------- Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Rodney Copeland]

I like MotoMans idea of breakin in the jug while hash is still available in the cylinder. I didn't need to exceed the manufacturers rpm limits by much to do that for the first 50 miles before the first oil change. I thought all KLRs ran flawlessly! HHHHAAAAAAAARRR!!!! Rod,,,32,000 miles now and with a 14.9 quarter mile slip from Thundervalley Dragstrip --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick McCauley wrote:

> > Kawasaki (the creator of the engine) says to break it in gently.

Why would you do it any other way? I babied my bike for the fisrt 500 miles, had the check up done, and for the next 500 I drove it a little more aggressive, but never exceeding 6,000 rpm's as Kawasaki recommends. My bike now has 6,900 miles on it and i have never had to add any oil between changes. My bike pulls strong, and gets just under 60 miles to the gallon. My friend bought his bike the same day i bought mine. He broke his in the same way, and his runs flawlessly too

> > My advise, break it in the way the designer says. > > Rick A17 > > Rodney Copeland wrote: > That's what I'm thinkin. > > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm > > > --------------------------------- > Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Pat Schmid]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick McCauley wrote:

> > Kawasaki (the creator of the engine) says to break it in gently. Why

would you do it any other way? ...

> My advise, break it in the way the designer says. > > Rick A17 >

Additional food for thought: My 1999 KLR broken in gentle. Now pushing 80,000 miles, no noticeable oil burn between 6000 mile oil changes. Compare this to MrMoose's bike. Rode it like he stole it. Always burned a good bit of oil right up to the day it self destructed before turning 50,000. Pat G'ville, NV

[Rodney Copeland]

Can't argue with 50,000 miles Pat! Rod,,,,,thinkin good luck with 6000 mile oil changes though, and have you run the squirt mile yet?,,,,It's a blast! Cheers --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Pat Schmid" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick McCauley

wrote:

> > > > Kawasaki (the creator of the engine) says to break it in gently.

Why

> would you do it any other way? ... > > My advise, break it in the way the designer says. > > > > Rick A17 > > > > Additional food for thought: > My 1999 KLR broken in gentle. Now pushing 80,000 miles, no

noticeable

> oil burn between 6000 mile oil changes. > > Compare this to MrMoose's bike. Rode it like he stole it. Always > burned a good bit of oil right up to the day it self destructed

before

> turning 50,000. > > Pat > G'ville, NV >

[walt.newell@excite.com]

a bunch of well meaning people start these endless political discussions go to alt.sci.physiscs.new-theories and see if that's what you want. It's not worth the trip for anything else. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

This thread is much like the oil threads so maybe we can put it to bed. Breaking in a rebored or rehoned cylinder is not the same as the "break in" of the bike you picked up new from the local shop. The "new" bike was run in by the manufacturer so the piston ring seating, camshaft lobe burnishing, etc. have all been mostly done. This is not the case with new or resurfaced parts. Breaking in a "new" bike is mostly precautionary as the surfaces have usually been run enough that the job is either right or wrong and the owner can only hope to influence things slightly in the right direction. I'll bet you a couple of donuts that Kawi run the engines at close to wide open throttle on some sort of dyno before they leave the engine assembly plant. This is done to seat rings, burnish the cam lobes with good oil flow and to show up any obvious problems. Take this to the bank: Idle a new camshaft installation any you are most likely to have excessive wear. Run in a new piston ring/cylinder wall surface under light load and you are more likely to have blow-by/oil burning than if you run the engine in with heavier throttle and frequent changes in RPM. That's the way it is folks. Run chrome rings in a used bore and you are more likely to have sealing problems that with cast iron rings. Break in new rings and rebore with synthetic oil and you are more likely to have oil consumption/blow-by than if you used dyno oil. That said, go ahead and do as you wish. After all it is your engine. All others can to is to advise. May your bike last forever and never hit anything you don't intend to.... (VBG) Norm