looking for a used klr

[Michael Koch]

This happened with another bike, a Honda XR650R, but this forum seems to have the most mechanically inclined members, so that is why I am posting it here. I was replacing the clutch cover, which is made of magnesium, using a Proto torque wrench that I bought new and have carefully cared for. I had the wrench set to click at 50 inch pounds for the first stage of tightening. The final value is 72-96 inch pounds. The magnesium cover cracked before the wrench clicked off. Thinking that the wrench was defective, I replaced it with a Snap-On wrench, brand new and just calibrated. One of the 7 holes stripped before the wrench clicked at 50 inch pounds. Maybe I had already damaged the hole with the previous try with the Proto, but I don't know. I used a heli-coil to fix the stripped hole and just got my new clutch cover in today. I am kind of nervous about replacing the cover because of the problems I've had. Maybe the problem is that the clutch cover has a big "HONDA" cast into it. How likely is it that the Proto wrench was/is defective? Is it safer practice to tighten steel bolts into aluminum engine parts by feel than to use a torque wrench? I had just installed an automatic clutch in the Honda, and the installation requires using two new fairly thick gaskets to space the cover out a bit. Is it possible that because the bolts were not reaching as far into the aluminum casting that the problems developed? Michael Koch KLR 650 A16

[Erik]

> have carefully cared for. I had the wrench set to click at 50 inch > pounds for the first stage of tightening. The final value is 72-96 > inch pounds. The magnesium cover cracked before the wrench clicked > off. Thinking that the wrench was defective, I replaced it with a

Shouldn't all of the bolts be at least hand tight before you start to torque any of them down (even to a lower value)? I should probably just shush until norm or mike or someone that knows what they're talking about answers, but that's the first thing that came to mind... erik

[Stuart Mumford]

I've got $5 that says you have it set to 50 ft lbs, not inch lbs. Inch pound torque wrenches are spendy, and they are either 1/4 or 3/8 drive. Check it out, and if your face isn't too red, tell me I'm right. Or wrong, as the case may bem but I can't see 50 inch punds (4.16666 ft lbs) stripping out anything. Cheers CA Stu

[Michael Koch]

Both the Proto and the Snap-On are 1/4" drive wrenches with 40-200 inch pound range. So you owe me $5.00, which I will collect next time I am in California. Many years ago I attempted to adjust the valves on a junker Dodge I had. I was 16 years old and with my borrowed torque wrench I tightened some bolts to the proper specification, only I substituted pounds for inches. I broke the first bolt I attempeted to tighten, but that was no great loss. That poor old piece of junk was on its last legs anyway. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Stuart Mumford" wrote:

> I've got $5 that says you have it set to 50 ft lbs, not inch lbs. > > Inch pound torque wrenches are spendy, and they are either 1/4 or

3/8 drive.

> > Check it out, and if your face isn't too red, tell me I'm right. > > Or wrong, as the case may bem but I can't see 50 inch punds

(4.16666 ft lbs)

> stripping out anything. > > Cheers > CA Stu

[CA Stu]

Well, with that glowing mechanic's resume, you should really be able to figure this one out on your own, shouldn't you? Are these click type torque wrenches? The reason I ask, the only other option that comes to mind is that you didn't hear or feel the click, which can be very subtle at such low torque values. Either way, IOU $5, you ham-fisted KLR mechanic. Cheers CA Stu PS Welcome to the HFKLRM club!

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Koch" wrote: > Both the Proto and the Snap-On are 1/4" drive wrenches with 40-200 > inch > pound range. So you owe me $5.00, which I will collect next time I > am > in California. Many years ago I attempted to adjust the valves on a > junker Dodge I had. I was 16 years old and with my borrowed torque > wrench I tightened some bolts to the proper specification, only I > substituted pounds for inches. I broke the first bolt I attempeted > to > tighten, but that was no great loss. That poor old piece of junk was > on its last legs anyway. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Stuart Mumford" > wrote: > > I've got $5 that says you have it set to 50 ft lbs, not inch lbs. > > > > Inch pound torque wrenches are spendy, and they are either 1/4 or > 3/8 > drive. > > > > Check it out, and if your face isn't too red, tell me I'm right. > > > > Or wrong, as the case may bem but I can't see 50 inch punds > (4.16666 > ft lbs) > > stripping out anything. > > > > Cheers > > CA Stu

[Michael Koch]

Both of the wrenches are the click type. The Proto doesn't rachet, but the Snap-On does. I hadn't thought about the possibility that I may have missed the click. I really don't think I did, but there is no way that I can say for sure. Fortunately, everything is o.k. now. I replaced the cover and snugged the bolts up by feel. I didn't break anything and after running it hard for about 30 minutes I have no oil leaks. I plan on drinking some beer, then I will use the Snap-On to tighten them to 72 inch pounds. ord@s...> wrote:

> Well, with that glowing mechanic's resume, you should really be

able

> to figure this one out on your own, shouldn't you? > > Are these click type torque wrenches? The reason I ask, the only > other option that comes to mind is that you didn't hear or feel the > click, which can be very subtle at such low torque values. > > Either way, IOU $5, you ham-fisted KLR mechanic. > > Cheers > CA Stu > > PS Welcome to the HFKLRM club! > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Koch"

wrote:

> > Both the Proto and the Snap-On are 1/4" drive wrenches with 40-200 > > inch > > pound range. So you owe me $5.00, which I will collect next time

I

> > am > > in California. Many years ago I attempted to adjust the valves

on

> a > > junker Dodge I had. I was 16 years old and with my borrowed

torque

> > wrench I tightened some bolts to the proper specification, only I > > substituted pounds for inches. I broke the first bolt I

attempeted

> > to > > tighten, but that was no great loss. That poor old piece of junk > was > > on its last legs anyway. > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Stuart Mumford" > > > wrote: > > > I've got $5 that says you have it set to 50 ft lbs, not inch

lbs.

> > > > > > Inch pound torque wrenches are spendy, and they are either 1/4

or

> > 3/8 > > drive. > > > > > > Check it out, and if your face isn't too red, tell me I'm right. > > > > > > Or wrong, as the case may bem but I can't see 50 inch punds > > (4.16666 > > ft lbs) > > > stripping out anything. > > > > > > Cheers > > > CA Stu

[Jim]

Correct torque? Proper tightening sequence? Factory screws? Dry, solvent cleaned threads? (KLR general 6mm thread torque, 52-69 in-lb) Jim A17

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Koch" wrote: > This happened with another bike, a Honda XR650R, but this forum > seems to have the most mechanically inclined members, so that is why > I am posting it here. I was replacing the clutch cover, which is > made of magnesium, using a Proto torque wrench that I bought new and > have carefully cared for. I had the wrench set to click at 50 inch > pounds for the first stage of tightening. The final value is 72-96 > inch pounds. The magnesium cover cracked before the wrench clicked > off. Thinking that the wrench was defective, I replaced it with a > Snap-On wrench, brand new and just calibrated. One of the 7 holes > stripped before the wrench clicked at 50 inch pounds. Maybe I had > already damaged the hole with the previous try with the Proto, but I > don't know. I used a heli-coil to fix the stripped hole and just > got my new clutch cover in today. I am kind of nervous about > replacing the cover because of the problems I've had. Maybe the > problem is that the clutch cover has a big "HONDA" cast into it. > > How likely is it that the Proto wrench was/is defective? Is it > safer practice to tighten steel bolts into aluminum engine parts by > feel than to use a torque wrench? I had just installed an automatic > clutch in the Honda, and the installation requires using two new > fairly thick gaskets to space the cover out a bit. Is it possible > that because the bolts were not reaching as far into the aluminum > casting that the problems developed? > > > Michael Koch > KLR 650 A16

[Jeff Saline]

Michael, First, thanks from the list for your nice comments about how this list has the most mechanically inclined members. It is a pretty good list. Just a thought here. Maybe you could put a bolt in a vise and try the torque wrench on it and see if you can get a click. If it hasn't been used in a while maybe it's possible the clicker is not clicking from??? I always store my torque wrenches at the lowest possible setting. But no lower. A test you may be able to perform is to clamp the torque wrench in a vise in a horizontal orientation. Then hang a weight from the handle 12 inches from the center of the socket holder and see if the clicker clicks when the wrench is set for the appropriate torque. Like, hang a 5 pound weight from the handle and set the wrench for 60 in lbs and gently lower the weight onto the handle. Maybe it'll click and maybe it won't. Remember, one foot pound is equal to twelve inch pounds. Bummer to hear of your mechanical issues but glad to also read you're getting them under control. As a sad story... a few years ago on the BMW Airheads list a guy was talking about how he split a swingarm bearing housing when adjusting the bearings. The bearings are preloaded to 15 foot pounds and then the adjuster is backed off and then torqued to 7.5 foot pounds. Then the adjuster lock nut is tightened to 75 foot pounds. Yup, you might have guessed it. He torqued the adjuster to 15 foot pounds and backed it off. Then he tried to tighten it to 75 foot pounds and the cast housing split. At least used swingarms are readily available for 30 year old airheads for only about 50-75 dollars. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Rick McCauley]

I was wondering if you are using a cross pattern when tightening them? Rick A17 Michael Koch wrote: Both of the wrenches are the click type. The Proto doesn't rachet, but the Snap-On does. I hadn't thought about the possibility that I may have missed the click. I really don't think I did, but there is no way that I can say for sure. Fortunately, everything is o.k. now. I replaced the cover and snugged the bolts up by feel. I didn't break anything and after running it hard for about 30 minutes I have no oil leaks. I plan on drinking some beer, then I will use the Snap-On to tighten them to 72 inch pounds. ord@s...> wrote:

> Well, with that glowing mechanic's resume, you should really be

able

> to figure this one out on your own, shouldn't you? > > Are these click type torque wrenches? The reason I ask, the only > other option that comes to mind is that you didn't hear or feel the > click, which can be very subtle at such low torque values. > > Either way, IOU $5, you ham-fisted KLR mechanic. > > Cheers > CA Stu > > PS Welcome to the HFKLRM club! > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Koch"

wrote:

> > Both the Proto and the Snap-On are 1/4" drive wrenches with 40-200 > > inch > > pound range. So you owe me $5.00, which I will collect next time

I

> > am > > in California. Many years ago I attempted to adjust the valves

on

> a > > junker Dodge I had. I was 16 years old and with my borrowed

torque

> > wrench I tightened some bolts to the proper specification, only I > > substituted pounds for inches. I broke the first bolt I

attempeted

> > to > > tighten, but that was no great loss. That poor old piece of junk > was > > on its last legs anyway. > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Stuart Mumford" > > > wrote: > > > I've got $5 that says you have it set to 50 ft lbs, not inch

lbs.

> > > > > > Inch pound torque wrenches are spendy, and they are either 1/4

or

> > 3/8 > > drive. > > > > > > Check it out, and if your face isn't too red, tell me I'm right. > > > > > > Or wrong, as the case may bem but I can't see 50 inch punds > > (4.16666 > > ft lbs) > > > stripping out anything. > > > > > > Cheers > > > CA Stu

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[scott quillen]

Stu, I think you probably hit the nail on the head...I have 9 YEARS of experience using torque wrenches on Minuteman ICBMs (nuclear missiles) AND was properly trained on torque wrench usage. I cannot imagine 50 inch lbs stripping anything either. Of course, an inch lb torque wrench and a ft lb torque wrench are two different animals - one torque wrench won't show both settings. It's also important to "exercise" a break-away (clicker) torque wrench at its lowest setting by clicking it at least 4 times in each direction before setting the proper torque and applying it. Regards, Scott --- Stuart Mumford wrote:

> I've got $5 that says you have it set to 50 ft lbs, > not inch lbs. > > Inch pound torque wrenches are spendy, and they are > either 1/4 or 3/8 drive. > > Check it out, and if your face isn't too red, tell > me I'm right. > > Or wrong, as the case may bem but I can't see 50 > inch punds (4.16666 ft lbs) > stripping out anything. > > Cheers > CA Stu > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: >

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