nklr 650 phillips-drive screw head tear-out prevention

[dooden]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote:

> Use driver or bit that: > > a.) is the proper size > > b.) is in new/excellent condition > > c.) has anti-camout ribs on the tip > (or other anti-slip treatment) > > > Any other suggestions/tips out there to minimize > *phillips-drive* screw head damage? > > Jim A17

Ya if its really tight, I skip the screwdriver and reach for my hammer activated 3/8" Impact tool with a phillips socket on the end. When in lefty loosey mode the impact from the hammer actually turns the screw out while ensuring the bit is as tight in the screw as possible. Same applies to the righty tighty mode, except the screw turns clockwise. Have had this thing for at least 20 years now and even though the little spring loaded ball that retains the socket has been gone for years, no doubt from when a normal 16 oz hammer would budge something and I resorted to the "BFH" to get the job done. Oh ya a little anti-seize goes a long way if its put on when the fasteners are still fairly new, like shortly after getting the bike I had a fastener turning party in the driveway with a tube of silver anti-seize and of course blue loc-tight tube for ones I wanted to stay put. Have since switched to a stick form of these things, look like glue stick but have red and blue loc-tight, silver and copper anti-seize, just rub the threads on the top of the stick, the material stays on the threads and not drips on everything in a 5 foot radius that the liquid stuff always seems to do for me. Dooden A15 Green Ape ps. yes I agree with you use the proper tool and a nice fresh bit with anti-slip grooves/lines/whichamacallits makes things go as planned in most cases.