what grip do you like. thought i knew, but nope

[dolomoto@peoplepc.com]

This is part two of my oil change saga. Yes, it's quite a love story complete with passion, joy, sadness and unfortunately for me, a deep revelation of "Oh shit I think it's really broken now". Part one saw me change the oil. Pretty straight forward right? Well this KLR has been dripping just a bit of oil from the drain plug since I got it, it wasn't even enough to even worry about til I got around to changing the oil. Hmmm, this is one BIG drain plug (24mm hex head). Hmmmm, as I peered at what came out, I saw a 1/4" piece of thread from the oil hole. More "hmmmm". Fast Forward: got new drain plug and new washer. Drained oil this morning. Pulled yucky hardware store bolt out. Put in new drain plug.....damn. It's not even close (waaay too small). Uh oh. Looked in oil. More threads. My stomach tightens. I re-install yucky hardware store bolt with a new washer and tighten just so. Refill engine with oil. Yep, still leaking. Tighten just a hair. (IOW, I initially tightened bolt to first contact and then about 1/2 turn til it was just snug). Still leaking. Decide to give it another 1/8th turn....Oh shit is what came out as the bolt spun past 1/8th turn and I realized the threads are stripped. I think I made up some new cuss words. It appears that the KLR doesn't really have an oil pan and that the cases must be split to fix this. For sure I could re-tap the hole and put in an even bigger bolt, but that didn't work the first time for the previous yahoo who did this. Suggestions? Engine has 24,500 miles. Austin-back to the cage 89 KLR-FUBAR? 92 Lumina - on borrowed time with 194,000 miles. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[a14@att.net]

> For sure I could re-tap the hole and put in an even bigger bolt, but that didn't > work the first time for the previous yahoo who did this. > > Suggestions? > > Engine has 24,500 miles. > > Austin-back to the cage >

1) Use a tampon. Change it often. 2) Maxi pads work well too. 3) Install a Timesert or other brand solid thread insert. 4) Have a competent welder build it up and re-tap to original size. Walt

[Steve Palmer]

I would try one of these http://www.timesert.com/ before I started splitting cases. Steve

> I think I made up some new cuss words. > > It appears that the KLR doesn't really have an oil pan and that the

cases must be split to fix this.

> > For sure I could re-tap the hole and put in an even bigger bolt, but

that didn't work the first time for the previous yahoo who did this.

> > Suggestions? > > Engine has 24,500 miles. > > Austin-back to the cage > 89 KLR-FUBAR? > 92 Lumina - on borrowed time with 194,000 miles. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > Archive Quicksearch at:

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html

> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[Jim]

Agree. Absolutely no need to split crankcase. However, the repaired or new threads must be perpendicular or square with the drain plug gasket sealing surface on the crankcase or it will leak with the factory metal gasket/washer. Maybe there are some D.P. gaskets out there that are softer/thicker or more forgiving this issue. Hasn't someone already come up with a technique and tools to do this repair satisfactorily in place? If not, seems like it's needed. Jim A17

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Palmer" wrote: > I would try one of these http://www.timesert.com/ before I started > splitting cases. > Steve > > > > > I think I made up some new cuss words. > > > > It appears that the KLR doesn't really have an oil pan and that the > cases must be split to fix this. > > > > For sure I could re-tap the hole and put in an even bigger bolt, but > that didn't work the first time for the previous yahoo who did this. > > > > Suggestions? > > > > Engine has 24,500 miles. > > > > Austin-back to the cage > > 89 KLR-FUBAR? > > 92 Lumina - on borrowed time with 194,000 miles. > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

[Eric L. Green]

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005, Dooden wrote:

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Don" wrote: >> Pro Grip 714 Dual Sport >> >> I ordered a set that arrived today but they are something like 1/2 or >> 3/4 of an inch too long, so I am on the hunt again for better than > Did you loosen the stuff on the bar and slide it in a 1/2" or so ?

If I recall correctly, there is a peg on the left-side stuff to keep it from sliding, and the throttle tube length is of course unchangable.

> I have the 737's and yes I used safety wire on the left grip, but the > throttle side was fine.

737's are a bit shorter. And not as plush. I like the plushness of the 714.

> Could always slice the ends off and install the bar end weights that > supposely reduce vibs.

I have handguards that go into the bar ends, so I just sliced the ends off of my 714's, it looks a bit hacktacular but hey this is a KLR not a friggin' Harley. They replaced 737's. I like the plush feel of these, does a fine job of keeping my hands from becoming numb, but if you bear down on them they're still plenty firm to have good control. -E