rack for soft bags

[gt196995]

Hey! Everybody Just want to say that im really enjoying the KLR mesg group. Thank got theres people out there with the same intrest as me.I do need some help? Bought a 02 KLR 650. Want to do some mods to it. starting with the Fork springs. Looking for the progressive springs. doseanybody know what the part # is to those springs?? Also any tips on a vented airbox?? Any tips on how to get the bike to run cooler? I heard that you can get some stuff called Water Wet to put in the radiator.Also Exaust is it really worth getting the s trap? I was reading up on it and said that you have to re pack it about every 1000 miles or less. What is re packing?? Didnt get the part.

[jon.sykes@ps.ge.com]

As far as getting the bike to run cooler, I know that when I flushed my cooling system recently and refilled with 50:50 Prestone mix she runs a LOT cooler. WaterWetter also works - I use that in my van. Look at the www.redline.com site for a local Red Line vendor. I simply drilled 15 or so small holes with a regular drill bit in my airbox. Seems to help a lot. I run a Cobra exhaust. I like the grunt and the extra bit of power. Fred Hink at Arrowhead http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html knows and sells just about everything you need for your KLR. I'd talk to him first. Enjoy! -----Original Message----- From: gt196995 [mailto:gt196995@...] Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 10:10 AM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Modifications Hey! Everybody Just want to say that im really enjoying the KLR mesg group. Thank got theres people out there with the same intrest as me.I do need some help? Bought a 02 KLR 650. Want to do some mods to it. starting with the Fork springs. Looking for the progressive springs. doseanybody know what the part # is to those springs?? Also any tips on a vented airbox?? Any tips on how to get the bike to run cooler? I heard that you can get some stuff called Water Wet to put in the radiator.Also Exaust is it really worth getting the s trap? I was reading up on it and said that you have to re pack it about every 1000 miles or less. What is re packing?? Didnt get the part. Checkout Dual Sport News at http://www.dualsportnews.com Be part of the Adventure! Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002

[toomanybikes]

--- gt196995 wrote:

> Hey! Everybody > Also any tips > on a vented airbox??

Stay stock! Any tips on how to get the bike

> to run cooler?

Shouldn't really run hot, several of us desert dwellers have no problems. Also Exaust is it really worth getting the

> s trap? I was > reading up on it and said that you have to re pack > it about every > 1000 miles or less. What is re packing??

It is a pain in the butt that requires diassembly of the muffler and rewrapping with fiberglass that eventually burns up and causes a louder pipe. If you don't tweet you may want to stay stock. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover http://greetings.yahoo.com/

[Devon Jarvis]

I have used supertrapps for a few years on my other bikes. If you do not have your bike jetted too rich, the repacking interval is more like 6,000mi. Repacking means you disassemble the muffler, removed the old fiberglass packing, and install a new pack (about $20), which is specially made by Supertrapp. It is heavier than regular insulation and won't blow out. The IDS2 supertrapp is too loud for my tastes, mine lives on a shelf in my garage. I might use it if I convert the KLR to street-only. The supertrapp is more fragile than the tank-like stock muffler, and doesn't crash as gracefully. To get any real performance benefit you will need to rejet. Supertrapp claims that 6-8 discs work well with stock jetting. It works, but I don't know about "well". The stock temp gauge is kind of inaccurate, and varies from bike to bike. Don't put too much thought into it, it's more a question of how often the fan is coming on. Water Wetter can't hurt, I use it and I think it helps a little. I would also recommend Fred at arrowheadmotorsports.com, he can help with fork springs, brake lines, airbox and exhaust mods etc.. Devon A15 gt196995 wrote:

> > Hey! Everybody > Just want to say that im really enjoying the KLR mesg group. Thank > got theres people out there with the same intrest as me.I do need > some help? Bought a 02 KLR 650. Want to do some mods to it. starting > with the Fork springs. Looking for the progressive springs. > doseanybody know what the part # is to those springs?? Also any tips > on a vented airbox?? Any tips on how to get the bike to run cooler? I > heard that you can get some stuff called Water Wet to put in the > radiator.Also Exaust is it really worth getting the s trap? I was > reading up on it and said that you have to re pack it about every > 1000 miles or less. What is re packing?? Didnt get the part. >

[rickicu2]

I have a 2005 KLR 650 California bike.I will use 60% road 40% off road.Off road 100-200 mile days. Sounds like I a lot of changes needed. Scotts dampner,new pipe??,re-jet carb,suspension changes? I was a desert rider in my youth, Now 55year old 6 ft.230 pounder re- discovering why I rode in the first place. This is great fun.Since I'm starting fresh what changes are a must,and in what order of importance,or suggestions... Thanks

[Mike Peplinski]

You can do as much or as little as you want. I'm sure you will get some "gotta do" things but overall you can be the best judge. There are a lot of gonzo KLR riders out there. For some its like the 4X4 thing. Top priorities will probably be the doohickey and the frame bolts. The carb thing is no biggie in my opinion but it is easy and free. Some of the more off road stuff gets into the suspension, like fork brace, bigger brake disk, radiator protection, belly plate the list goes on. Check out http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html and just go out and have fun.

>From: "rickicu2" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] modifications >Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 16:56:12 -0000 > >I have a 2005 KLR 650 California bike.I will use 60% road 40% off >road.Off road 100-200 mile days. Sounds like I a lot of changes >needed. Scotts dampner,new pipe??,re-jet carb,suspension changes? I >was a desert rider in my youth, Now 55year old 6 ft.230 pounder re- >discovering why I rode in the first place. This is great fun.Since I'm >starting fresh what changes are a must,and in what order of >importance,or suggestions... Thanks > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[rsanders30117]

FWIW Suggestions for a new KLR650: 1. Assume the rear suspension wasn't greased at the factory & grease it with moly grease. (Probably a good assumption). Grease the pivot bolts for corrosion protection. 2. Install a 4 x 7 piece of rubber sheet to protect the rear shock rod from road debris. A pair of mounting holes are available but Kawasaki doesn't provide the flap. 3. Install a decent bash plate (do before going off road) 4. Upgrade to Pro-Grip gel grips 5. Install some hand guards to protect the levers or cut the balls off the levers, they don't bend as readily without the ball on the end. (KLR is very top heavy, gravity rules) 6. Grease the wheel bearings (probably very little factory grease) 7. Loctite all fasteners. 8. Install stainless lock washers under the exhaust clamp's two acorn nuts at the head 9. Replace the exhaust heat shied screws with stainless screws & lock washers. Use a bit of anti-seize on the threads. Shim the shields out using stainless washer for cooler operation (OEM screws quickly rust) 10. Change the head lamp fuse to a 15A (stopping the dimmer switch way blows the 10A fuse) 11. Remount the license plate using the bottom pair of holes on the tag, moving it up out of harm's way (trust me on this) 12. Get a shop manual 13. Install a clear fuel filter between the tank & the carburetor 14. "T" the carburetor vent line 15. Grease all electrical connections with dielectric grease & hose wiring with sealant spray. 16. Screw a nylock nut on the tips of the rear wheel threaded adjuster to prevent losing the adjuster nuts & plate 17. Upgrade the shift lever to a forged lever with a pad on its tip to protect the engine case 18. Install a brush guard cable between the rear brake pedal & the bash plate. Keeps this from snagging brush. The above are essential basic modifications: Advanced modifications: 1. Oversized front brake rotor kit. This is a must do for the street, trumps all other brake modifications. 2. For better cooling system protection, install an IMS military fuel tank. 3. For another odometer & an accurate speedometer, install a bicycle computer. Select one that has an extra long pick up cable. 4. Add a battery voltage indicator (a good suggestion for any MC). 5. Replace wheel bearings with total sealed bearings 6. For me, dropping down to a 14 tooth counter sprocket works well. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Peplinski" wrote:

> You can do as much or as little as you want. I'm sure you will get

some

> "gotta do" things but overall you can be the best judge. There are

a lot of

> gonzo KLR riders out there. For some its like the 4X4 thing. Top

priorities

> will probably be the doohickey and the frame bolts. The carb thing

is no

> biggie in my opinion but it is easy and free. Some of the more off

road

> stuff gets into the suspension, like fork brace, bigger brake disk,

radiator

> protection, belly plate the list goes on. Check out > http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html and just go out and have fun. > > >From: "rickicu2" > >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] modifications > >Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 16:56:12 -0000 > > > >I have a 2005 KLR 650 California bike.I will use 60% road 40% off > >road.Off road 100-200 mile days. Sounds like I a lot of changes > >needed. Scotts dampner,new pipe??,re-jet carb,suspension changes? I > >was a desert rider in my youth, Now 55year old 6 ft.230 pounder re- > >discovering why I rode in the first place. This is great fun.Since

I'm

> >starting fresh what changes are a must,and in what order of > >importance,or suggestions... Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: > >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > >

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Shultz" wrote:

> Looking to add racks to my bike for some ortleib soft bags. Wondered > if Happy Trails OSR racks would do a good job. Any downside? Anything > better out there? > > Randy

The Ortlieb throwovers work well with the OSR racks. Craig Olson (who goes by 'olekaw' on TC_KLR.650) has devised a little additional rigging with velcro and nylon webbing that stabilizes the bags, but it's probably not necessary. If you want to develop a fashion idea with yellow accents, you can get the bags in yellow to go with your yellow racks, yellow fork gaiters, yellow Rally Pros, yellow piping on your Corbin, yellow Pelican toolbox on your luggage rack and god knows what else. Downside is that you have to pull at least one of the racks to get your side covers off. Or, you could use the clip-on Ortliebs with one of the other HT rackss, and give yourself the option of hard bags at a later date. But the OSR racks look better on the bike without bags, IMO.