progressive lr springs and fork spacers

[Brock]

I have been having some power issues with my klr lately. It shifts fine through the first 4 gears all the way to red line, but when I get to 5th, it really takes some effort going over 4,000 rpms, and max speeds on a slight incline is 65-70 indicated. It will get up to 80 on the flat, but it just takes a while. It is almost like my old honda spree that would max out at 30mph! The throttle is pegged and nothing is happening. Valves have been adjusted recently, and the carb cleaned. I have heard that this might be caused from a tear in the diaphram, so I pulled the carb last weekend, and it looked fine. I have ridden with the gas cap open and it does the same thing and all the vacuum hoses look fine. The only thing that might be suspect is I did some hammering to kill tweaty and the exaust has a rattle now. It looks ok, but I am wondering if it is possible to restrict airflow enough to cause the problem? Any one have any ideas. -Brock __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/

[Erik]

did you use an ECII oil? maybe your clutch is slipping. *hides* (actually, might it be worthwhile to check your clutch adjustment?) erik

> I have been having some power issues with my klr > lately. It shifts fine through the first 4 gears all > the way to red line, but when I get to 5th, it really > takes some effort going over 4,000 rpms, and max > speeds on a slight incline is 65-70 indicated. It > will get up to 80 on the flat, but it just takes a > while. It is almost like my old honda spree that > would max out at 30mph! The throttle is pegged and > nothing is happening. Valves have been adjusted > recently, and the carb cleaned. I have heard that > this might be caused from a tear in the diaphram, so I > pulled the carb last weekend, and it looked fine. I > have ridden with the gas cap open and it does the same > thing and all the vacuum hoses look fine. The only > thing that might be suspect is I did some hammering to > kill tweaty and the exaust has a rattle now. It looks > ok, but I am wondering if it is possible to restrict > airflow enough to cause the problem? > > Any one have any ideas. > > -Brock > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site > http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ > > > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Alan L Henderson]

Brock wrote:

> > thing and all the vacuum hoses look fine. The only > thing that might be suspect is I did some hammering to > kill tweaty and the exaust has a rattle now. It looks > ok, but I am wondering if it is possible to restrict > airflow enough to cause the problem?

If your worried about tweety you could do a tweetyectomy as I have been documenting in the "caption contest". Make a bushing from broom handle to fit into the end of the muffler. Drill a hole with the bushing out of the muffler to insure the hole is centered. Use a 1 1/4 inch hole saw, for metal, and cut around the end of the exhaust using the bushing to keep it centered. The baffle may still be fastened at the front, wiggle it vigorously to break the welds. Pull tweety out. Don't open the front where tweety was welded as the front is part of the particle separator for the spark arrestor. I made a 4 inch extension to get the heat past the fender. If you don't protect the fender you will melt the edge. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[scttotis]

Alan, once you pull tweety out, do you weld the 4 inch extension on at the hole saw hole, and leave tweety out all together? Do you clean out all the stuffing? is the result loud or different sounding?

> If your worried about tweety you could do a tweetyectomy as I have been > documenting in the "caption contest". Make a bushing from broom handle > to fit into the end of the muffler. Drill a hole with the bushing

out of

> the muffler to insure the hole is centered. Use a 1 1/4 inch hole saw, > for metal, and cut around the end of the exhaust using the bushing to > keep it centered. The baffle may still be fastened at the front, wiggle > it vigorously to break the welds. Pull tweety out. Don't open the front > where tweety was welded as the front is part of the particle separator > for the spark arrestor. I made a 4 inch extension to get the heat past > the fender. If you don't protect the fender you will melt the edge. > > Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[Eric L. Green]

On Wed, 25 May 2005, Blake Sobiloff wrote:

> On 5/25/05, Dooden wrote: >> But I am wondering what folks are using to flush the forks with, that >> can be mixed with new fork oil, say if all somebody wanted to do was >> to drain and refill with say a bit thicker fork oil. > > Do you really have to flush? I just removed the drain screw at the > bottom of each fork, pumped the fork until no more fluid came out, > > Yeah, there was probably some crud in the very bottom of the fork that > didn't come out, but I didn't have to hassle with removing the front > wheel, loosening the triple clamps, etc. I'll just change the oil > again in another 3,000 miles anyway. I know it's not perfect, but > it's convenient as hell and I'm all about convenience these days.

nAnd realistically speaking, the KLR shock isn't exactly the kind of precision high-tech instrument that cares, anyhow. We're talking about early 1980's dirt bike technology here, not some kinda space-age high-tech Eye-talian hardware the breaks if you sneeze at it wrong. -E