carb leaking gasoline

DSN_KLR650
Eric L. Green
Posts: 837
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 1:41 pm

chain and sprocket life?

Post by Eric L. Green » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:13 pm

On Wed, 13 Apr 2005, klr6501995 wrote:
> A guru should say wd-40 and chain(wax?!) is crap
What do gurus know about motorcycles anyhow? Gurus ought to just sit around going "Ooohm!" and giving cryptic advice that could mean anything.
> As any lister who has actually used a wd-40 and 90 wt gear > oil regimentl could and should attest to the loooong chain > life.
I once pooh-poohed those who used only wd-40 on their chains, saying "Oh come on, WD-40 is a rust protectant, not a lubricant!". But you can't argue with results. People have been getting pretty good results with wd-40 alone. -E

Chaz Cooper - Hotmail
Posts: 34
Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 1:34 pm

chain and sprocket life?

Post by Chaz Cooper - Hotmail » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:33 pm

I've heard that you can dip a chain in a 50/50 mix of heated gear oil and paraffin. Allegedly when you take the chain out and let it cool, the mix semi-solidifies and keeps the chain lubricated. Has anyone tried this?
----- Original Message ----- From: klr6501995 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 3:43 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Chain and Sprocket Life? A guru should say wd-40 and chain(wax?!) is crap As any lister who has actually used a wd-40 and 90 wt gear oil regimentl could and should attest to the loooong chain life. I use one rear stocker and 3 fronts 14 and 16 use up fast after running a 15 t c.s then back to the 15. first set 20K. now at 18K mi additional on the the second set and expect to get maayybe 10K mi more. I live in Jacksonville Fla, so get a lot of sand ,salt, and water in my chains, bike is stored in the open under cover. Daily commuter. Ihit the chain with wd-40 every two -four days and gear oil when it looks dry or when it squeaks. I do know the rear stock sprocket is GOOD quality from the adjustments needed. Maybe every 2-3Kmi or at oil changes. highway extended times need gear oil at least every tankfull if not 100 miles.That is where I see the most wear. When I ride in sand offroad I lube/ clean with wd-40 and then gear oil on a cold chain and use the short highway run to fling the gear oil off and get the right wetness of the chain. Mo better is wd-40 on cold chain, then gear oil on warm chain. Them o'rings aint grease tight. YMMV and JMHO. I preach wd-40, gear oil. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Ron Criswell wrote: > Me neither on chain maintenance, that's why I buy the best chain and > don't screw with it much. Mine is way loose now after a 1600 mile trip. > But am using Bel Ray lube after my Guru said Chain Wax and WD 40 is > crap. > > Criswell > On Tuesday, April 12, 2005, at 06:15 PM, CA Stu wrote: > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dan N1GXC" wrote: > >> > >> > >> Hi group. I was wondering how many miles can be expected from the > > OEM > >> chain and sprockets. > > > > I think the simple answer is "until it needs replacing". > > > > Lots of factors there, but a simple test should tell you whether you > > need to replace it. > > I bet it's a different amount of miles for each of us. > > > > > > Mine last about 10-12000 miles until they get a tight link or worn > > down so I can pull the back part of the chain far enough away from the > > rear sprocket to see the whole tooth. > > > > Obviously, I'm not the Prince of Chain Maintenance, you've obviously > > done way better than my average. > > > > Thanks > > CA Stu > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Blake Sobiloff
Posts: 1077
Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:29 pm

chain and sprocket life?

Post by Blake Sobiloff » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:58 pm

On 4/13/05, clint lee jin yew wrote:
> wd40 is carosine based if i'm not mistaken.
Actually, its not--see http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html>: "What does WD-40 contain? While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents. " -- Blake Sobiloff San Mateo, CA (USA)

GMac999
Posts: 152
Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2004 10:21 pm

chain and sprocket life?

Post by GMac999 » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:52 pm

Dooden, I went to a 14/47 sprocket configuration. I works much better off road, but I wish I could get it lower still. Where I ride there's lots of trees and little open trail, so I'm still slipping the clutch, just not near as much as with the 14/43. I did have to go to a 110 link chain to offset the larger rear sprocket. I tried it with the stock length, the tire cleared the swingarm, but it acted like a big scraper. There was only 1/8" clearance between the tire and the swingarm. I picked up the rear at http://www.throttlehead.com/catalog/dirt/ and it's part number JT48747. I keep a 16T front for on road riding. Greg '95 A9 -----Original Message----- From: Dooden [mailto:dooden@...] Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 6:20 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Chain and Sprocket Life?
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "CA Stu" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dan N1GXC" wrote: > > > > > > Hi group. I was wondering how many miles can be expected from the > OEM > > chain and sprockets. > > I think the simple answer is "until it needs replacing". > > Lots of factors there, but a simple test should tell you whether you > need to replace it. > I bet it's a different amount of miles for each of us. > > > Mine last about 10-12000 miles until they get a tight link or worn > down so I can pull the back part of the chain far enough away from the > rear sprocket to see the whole tooth. > > Obviously, I'm not the Prince of Chain Maintenance, you've obviously > done way better than my average. > > Thanks > CA Stu Pffffft 10-12,000 miles... hahahaha I wish.. about 4,500 miles, new rear bearings (Got um Fred. thanks) going in tonight or tomarrow removing rear sprocket its now a emergency spare, got about 3000 miles out of the Sprocket Specialist Steel 45T w/ Mud Sluts, chain well its not ringing yet, but has a few really tight spots. Will go back to the OEM sprocket which I hear wears like.. please do not say Steel.. ;-) To be fair, I am not a big chain maintence person, WD-40 baths and oil when I know I will be on the road for a while, but that appears not very often eh... Bearings are a long story, but lets say that shortly after regreasing the whole back end and swingarm I went riding and got stuck, leaving the whole back end of the bike underwater for a few hours till a much larger tow rope could be brought in to the bike. Tugging on the chain will not preduce a view of a whole tooth, but the slots are also not round either, more like radius corners, both leading and trailing, just assume the sprocket was not up to the hardness level everybody says the OEM is at. Besides 14/45 is just too short of gearing, I have reached for 6th and 7th gear within a short distance of hitting the highway. Will try the 14/43 and see how bad I have to slip the clutch offroad to know if it will work for me. Dooden A15 Green Ape Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/

Alan L Henderson
Posts: 712
Joined: Sun Apr 09, 2000 9:10 am

chain and sprocket life?

Post by Alan L Henderson » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:53 pm

Chaz Cooper - Hotmail wrote:
> I've heard that you can dip a chain in a 50/50 mix of heated gear oil and
paraffin. Allegedly when you take the chain out and let it cool, the mix semi-solidifies and keeps the chain lubricated. Has anyone tried this? Very, very old school. I used to do that when I ran non oring chain back in the 70's. I'm not sure what it would do for a oring chain. Very messy stinky and will irritate your spouse to no end. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

John Kokola
Posts: 332
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2004 9:46 pm

chain and sprocket life?

Post by John Kokola » Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:40 pm

Me too. --John Kokola yea, verily -----Original Message----- From: klr6501995 I preach wd-40, gear oil.

Eric L. Green
Posts: 837
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 1:41 pm

carb leaking gasoline

Post by Eric L. Green » Wed Apr 13, 2005 9:06 pm

On Thu, 14 Apr 2005, codyblake0 wrote:
> Well I just got back from a trip where I purchased a KLR and rode it > home. It seems pretty solid although I have a little problem now. On > the way home I noticed that it wasnt getting its normal 50mpg or close, > but only 33 or 34. I found this out after almost running out of gas in > the arizona desert. So now I am home and I fired the bike up in the > garage but it wont start with the choke. In fact the only way to get > it going and keep it going is to gas it manually and hold it on or else > it wont idle at all, but die. At that time I noticed that the clear > tube coming from the carburetor, for excess fuel I assume, is leaking > gas all over the floor of my garage. What is up with that? If anyone > can help I would appreciate much.
Float valve is stuck. Probably some dirt in the line got stuck in the float valve and is holding it open. Correct by removing the float bowl, remove the floats by pushing out the pin that holds their pivot (CAREFUL! These are fragile, and the float valve will fall out when you do this!), catch the float valve when it falls out (NOTE WHAT END FALLS OUT! The sorta triangular end will go up, the springy end is what will touch the tab on the float valve), then clean everything with carb cleaner. Squirt carb cleaner into a small glass container and, wearing nitrile gloves and wielding a worn-out toothbrush, scrub any corrosion gently off the float valve (WARNING, these cleaners contain ether so do this in a well ventilated area!). Squirt carb cleaner up in the hole that the float valve came out of, and run a toothpick around it to scrub off any corrosion then squirt again. Re-assemble everything, and I bet you'll be fine. -E

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