charging system problems

[mikesupon]

I'm a new owner of a used 2001 KLR. It now has 7000 mi, and I've decided to go over the bike and inspect & lube all the usual places. Mark's KLR site has been an invaluable tool, as well as this group. Upon inspecting the rear brake pads, I've discovered that the outside pad is completely gone...only the steel backing is left. Of course I then ran my finger over the rear rotor to find some pretty serious gouges. I guess that's the problem with buying used, although for the price, some minor maintenance is a small trade-off. I obviously am going to replace the pads...any advice there...I read the galfer "green" are a good choice. I will probably have to replace the disk as well...no sense buying great pads only to wear them out on a scored disk. I've tried to remove the allen head screws holding the disk to the hub, but they are extremely stubborn. I've used penetrating fluids, but it doesn't seem to help. I do not want to round out the allens, so does anyone have any advice on how to loosen these??? Thanks, and any comments on the pad selection or the disk replacement in general would be appreciated. Has anyone turned the discs with success. The feel of the scoring says the rotor would have to be turned quite a bit. Mike A15

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Thu, Mar 31, 2005 at 03:33:58AM -0000, mikesupon wrote:

> > I obviously am going to replace the pads...any advice there...I read > the galfer "green" are a good choice.

Not for the rear -- they're way, way too grabby for the rear, which locks up all too easily even with the stock pads. I have never seen a recommendation of the galfer green pads for the rear (and I don't know if they're even made) -- galfer black pads or Dunlopads are the usual recommendation, and the stock pads are okay too. I have Dunlopads on the back of my bike now and I expect that I will replace them with another set when they're done. I have Galfer green pads on the front and I will probably replace them with the new HH Dunlopads when the time comes. I was persuaded by the recent discussion here that the HH Dunlopads are A Good Thing on the front. Thor

[Guy B. Young II]

Mike, I'd replace the rotor, as it sounds beyond repair and will need gound down too far and would be well beyond the service limit. As far as your Allen head bolts go.... You're at the point that you shouldn't worry about rounding them out. Your primary concern now is just getting them out of there. IMHO - they're cheesy soft and the socket-pockets aren't deep enough for the bit to gain good purchase on them to break them free; they just round out. The only way I've been able to get crappy/rounded-out Allen head bolts free is to use an impact wrench (type you hit with a hammer), and good quality Torx bits. Find a bit that's slightly oversize and will just begin to fit in the bolt pocket, then drive it in the rest of the way with a hammer. Then use the impact wrench to break the bolt free and drive/turn it out until it's loose. Once loose, replace the impace with a (ratchet) wrench to take it the rest of the way out. I had to go through this very exercise on one of my rotor bolts on a spare wheel when changing tires. Hope this helps. Guy I obviously am going to replace the pads...any advice there...I read the galfer "green" are a good choice. I will probably have to replace the disk as well...no sense buying great pads only to wear them out on a scored disk. I've tried to remove the allen head screws holding the disk to the hub, but they are extremely stubborn. I've used penetrating fluids, but it doesn't seem to help. I do not want to round out the allens, so does anyone have any advice on how to loosen these??? Thanks, and any comments on the pad selection or the disk replacement in general would be appreciated. Has anyone turned the discs with success. The feel of the scoring says the rotor would have to be turned quite a bit. Mike A15 Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links

[dooden]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Guy B. Young II" wrote:

> Mike, > > I'd replace the rotor, as it sounds beyond repair and will need

snip

> The only way I've been able to get crappy/rounded-out Allen head

bolts free is to use an impact wrench (type you hit with a hammer), and good quality Torx bits. Find a bit that's slightly oversize and will just begin to fit in the bolt pocket, then drive it in the rest of the way with a hammer. Then use the impact wrench to break the bolt free and drive/turn it out until it's loose. Once loose, replace the impace with a (ratchet) wrench to take it the rest of the way out.

> > I had to go through this very exercise on one of my rotor bolts on a

spare wheel when changing tires.

> > Hope this helps. > > Guy

Guy pretty funny, thats exactly how I got one of mine out, but also put it back in since I did'nt have a replacement bolt at the time, just not at extreme torque values like it came to me under. Any good place to buy replacement bolts for the calipers ? Dooden A15 Green Ape

[Guy B. Young II]

Dooden, Ditto that, 'cause I didn't have a replacement then either (do now!). I haven't had a chance to look around to try and find a sholdered bolt with a shallow head (for clearance), so I just went back to the OEMs from Ron Ayers, for now. I found out a long time ago that the rotor bolts on the Concours has a similar issue when first removed and began using Never-Seize on the threads during re-installation; haven't had a problem since. This was the first time the ones on my original rear wheel were out since the spare wheel didn't come with a rotor, so I had to make the swap. I used Never-Seize when I mounted the rotor and will see how it's worked since I think it's 'safe' to pull off the studded tires now. FWIW - the front rotor bolts came out fine when I swapped rotors a couple of years ago. I suspect that things corroded over time and that's what added to the problem of getting them out. The Never-Seize should prevent that from happening again. X (crossed fingers) Guy -----Original Message----- From: Dooden --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Guy B. Young II" wrote:

> I had to go through this very exercise on one of my rotor bolts on a

spare wheel when changing tires. snip myself Guy pretty funny, thats exactly how I got one of mine out, but also put it back in since I did'nt have a replacement bolt at the time, just not at extreme torque values like it came to me under. Any good place to buy replacement bolts for the calipers ?

[anti-js]

This is really good Norm, Even I undastood it... Gonna keep this post cause I've never been able to splain it to lucy... ...cleaning connectors is still a PITA though... js on 3/29/05 8:10 PM, April Neave & Norm Keller at normkeller@... wrote:

> > Let's list some definitions: > > 1) Connection: the point where two electrical circuits (paths) join.

...SNIP good stuff...

> > Time has run out, hope this is sufficient to be of value. > > Norm

[Stuart Mumford]

> -----Original Message----- > As far as your Allen head bolts go.... > > You're at the point that you shouldn't worry about rounding them > out. Your primary concern now is just getting them out of there. > IMHO - they're cheesy soft and the socket-pockets aren't deep > enough for the bit to gain good purchase on them to break them > free; they just round out. > > The only way I've been able to get crappy/rounded-out Allen head > bolts free is to use an impact wrench (type you hit with a > hammer),

Great post, but the tool you're describing is called an "impact driver", impact wrenches are air or electric. Cheers CA Stu