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Jim
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Komjathy" wrote: > Removing it would be out of the question, but disabling it wouldn't. I've > got a couple K before the next valve check, and I'm willing to give it a > try. Seems to me, holding the fly-wts. in the off position would do it. > Anyone have suggestions?
>Damit, wish someone would help with this question, I'm wonderin too! >Rod,,,pretty sure we can just scrap it if we want to. >As quick as the KLR starts, the starter don't work that hard > > > > >--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Komjathy" wrote: >> Nothing yet. Just wondering how long it will be before it breaks. I >have no >> experience with this part of the bike, other than knowing it's >there, and >> how it works. I have had it stick in cold weather, making a weak >start of >> the engine. >> So, what do you guys think about disabling this part?
I just grabbed a cam from my garage. Merely removing the spring might be sufficient. If not, I think you could TEMPORARILY disable it for testing purposes by manually setting it in the running position and wrapping some safety wire around the cam and the shim lifting pin. Only 1/2 the pin is used for lifting, so if you placed the wire as far away from the end of the pin (closest to the KACR weights) you wouldn't have any clearance problem. Another option could be to tack weld the weight plate to the mounting flange in the running position. Mark>Tom, > >Sounds like a plan. But note that to disable the KACR, you have to >hold the weights *out* (it's a centrifugal device that is inactive at >higher engine speeds). It's not blindingly obvious how to do that (at >least not to me
to> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "scttotis" wrote: > > > > Did you notice that the starter had a more difficult time turning > > the engine over at any point? > > Unfortunately, I can't answer that. I just got the bike and it came
working> me this way. I could query the PO and see if he ever noticed any > change in load on the starter... > > I would kind of agree with Jud's concern about having the KACR
welded> unless one was *certain* not having it was OK. 'Cos the KACR is
of us.> to the end of the camshaft and all the parts very securely riveted > together. Removing it is pretty much a one-way operation - for most
many> > I'm going to scout for a light spring at the hardware store today. > Obviously, getting the wrong spring in there would be a bad thing. > Assuming I've got all parts of the spring, I can guesstimate how
W/o a spring the compression release will almost never work part of the time depending on where the cam stops w/ turning motor off. It will disable easier and sooner at lower rpm w/o the spring. No motor h.p loss. FWIW I would ride as is until a spring came in. if the spring is cheap I'd buy at least 3 and choose the best one. I would not trust the springs bought in a hardware store. These could actually be less quality than stock. And more FWIW a trusted mechanic tells me that w/o compression release activated a backfire at start up has a good chance of motor/case damage. The klr is easy started but can backfire after river crossings/sucking water, and over oiled air filters.> coils it has as well as the diameter of the wire and its tension. > > Does anyone happen to know the free length of the spring coils (not > counting the end loops)? > > I'm less concerned about it not working while starting than I'm > concerned that it disables (releases?) itself at a low enough engine > speed - not affecting engine power. > > Pics of my cleanup and doohickey replacement job below. > > Jim > Fort Collins, CO > > http://www.steinborn.org/jim/klr/
You're right - they're crap. Saved me a lot of time, though - I took one look at the sample board and could tell none of them were anything I'd put in my engine. I guess I'm going to have to order one from the dealer for replacement at a later date. Thanks, Jim> > I would not trust the springs bought in a hardware store. These > could actually be less quality than stock.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Steinborn" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klr6501995" wrote: > > > > I would not trust the springs bought in a hardware store. These > > could actually be less quality than stock. > > You're right - they're crap. Saved me a lot of time, though - I took > one look at the sample board and could tell none of them were anything > I'd put in my engine. I guess I'm going to have to order one from the > dealer for replacement at a later date. > > Thanks, > Jim
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]>Chiming in a bit late, but just yesterday I too discovered that my >compression release spring was roached when I opened up the top end to >swap shims. > >I ordered a new shock spring. ($1.89 at Ron Ayers) Spring was >deformed and broken with little bits of spring here and there. I got >most of the shards out that I could see. > >Paul in DC >90 KLR - 95 VFR > >--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Steinborn" wrote: > > >>--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klr6501995" wrote: >> >> >>>I would not trust the springs bought in a hardware store. These >>>could actually be less quality than stock. >>> >>> >>You're right - they're crap. Saved me a lot of time, though - I took >>one look at the sample board and could tell none of them were anything >>I'd put in my engine. I guess I'm going to have to order one from the >>dealer for replacement at a later date. >> >>Thanks, >>Jim >> >> > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > >
There was some scoring on the cylinder head casting, from the remains of the spring flailing around, I suppose. I'm not thrilled about spring bits in the engine, in various places. I don't think the bike has a magnetic drain plug, but I suppose the strainer might catch 'em. As for disabling the KACR, perhaps mine was disabled for some time, but I just didn't know it. I imagine the starter is sized and geared for the KACR, however, since Kawi kept the KACR in the late models that won't take a kick starter. Starter cranking speed has never been very robust on this bike, but I just wrote that off as the cold temperatures. It always starts right up, regardless of temperature, so I didn't think anything about it. Could be the engine was being started at full compression ever since I got it five months ago. -- Paul in DC - www.wilsonline.org 95 VFR - 90 KLR> > Is the compression release necessary with electric start? If not it > should be safe to remove the compression release, and then not worry > about it. > > Darren Clark > > 2004 KLR650 A18 (Broken Doohickey) >
Didn't Devon or one of the long term listers mention having removed the compression release with no ill effects? Since the compression release is intended to make turning the engine through the compression stroke easier by releasing some of the compression mixture it will also reduce compression pressure and temperature. Reducing compression pressure and temperature will make the engine harder to start (mixture harder to ignite). The compromise of easier kick starting versus lower compression pressure/temperature is needed to make kick starting a large single more palatable to most riders. Try an early 1960's BSA Gold Star- evil is the only word which seems to apply. They would kick back and smack your instep so as to make you fall to the ground and cry! On the flip side the lower compression effects will make for harder starting as anyone who has operated a worn engine will have experienced. Somewhere there is a optimum point of compromise with a single cylinder and I would like someone who has tried the KLR without compression release to qualify that point. It is easy to accept that the KLR doesn't need the compression release but I'm too time challenged to pull mine apart to see. How about some experience? IMO it would be better, because it is simpler, to do away with the compression release during the next valve adjustment and not to have the possibility of a compression release failure. Less is usually better. If it works...... Norm>It always starts right up, regardless of temperature, >so I didn't think anything about it. Could be the engine >was being >started at full compression ever since I got it five months >ago
Didn't Devon or one of the long term listers mention having removed the compression release with no ill effects?>It always starts right up, regardless of temperature, so I didn't think >anything about it. Could be the engine >was being started at full >compression ever since I got it five months >ago
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