--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Conall" wrote: > > I agree with Fred, without a " torque stick" you really have no idea > how much torque you are applying with your air wrench. A torque stick > is commonly used by automotive garages when reinstalling wheel lug > nuts/bolts. > > They are rated for different torque ratings, are spring loaded > devices that will automatically stop tightening the bolts once the > torque value is reached. > Problem is torque sticks are not inexpensive. > Maybe a torque stick is an item you may want to be able to supply > Fred. > > Conall > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > Negative consequences? How about that nagging little voice in the > back of > > your head saying "I wonder if that rotor bolt got tight enough and > if the > > flywheel is going to fly off" or "I wonder if that rotor bolt got > tightened > > too much and the rotor bolt breaks, letting the flywheel fly > off?". Since > > you don't know at what torque your electric impact wrench would > tighten this > > bolt, it may be the correct torque, too tight or not tight enough. > There > > lies the problem. If you could find out what torque your impact > wrench will > > work at, this might help silence those voices. > > > > Fred > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Glen" > > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 6:58 AM > > Subject: [DSN_klr650] engine rebuild - rotor removal > > > > > > > > > > > > > hey all, > > > > > > i just took the engine out of the frame for the second time!! it > is > > > a long story as to why but it basically comes down to not being > able > > > to afford a transmission part at the time and therefore > thinking "it > > > will be okay", BUT it isn't okay and i want to fix it when it is > > > cold not when it is sunny in the summer, since the riding season > is > > > so short around here. now to the question: last time i did the > > > rebuild i was sans rotor holder tool and such but what i used was > an > > > electric impact to remove the bolt which i don't see as a problem. > > > i also installed it this way and it ran fine and is still running > > > fine 15,000 kms later so my plan is to do it again this way, > making > > > sure i use a new bolt with some locktite on it, the main reason > for > > > this is as you might have guess lack of money. i know the purists > > > would say to make sure that i use the holder tool and such but i > am > > > just wondering are there any negative consequences to this?? as i > > > said i haven't seen any after 15,000 kms is there anyone out there > > > who has?? > > > > > > glenski - don't worry i already did my doohickey last time!! > > > a14
ncis segment
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engine rebuild - rotor removal
Dunno about his electric impact, but my electric impact went at it for
a long time on the rotor bolt (factory installed) till the socket got
warm and the bolt just sat there giggling at it.
Suppose I could go read what it says but I am guessing its rated for
somewhere between 150~250 ft pounds, and im sure would have been fine
to install the bolt, but the factory must use a 1" drive 300psi@200cfm
to install them... Cause this impact has always gotten lug nugs off
fine and they "should" be torqued to 90~100 ft pounds by spec.
Also have heard the stories of the dealers that just use a impact for
off and the same impact back on. Its not like its a Space Shuttle or
anything, biggest thing is making sure the flywheel is on the shaft
all the way aka: woodrift key not binding
But as per normal.. its your ride, borrow a torque wrench if your
nervious about it, go buy a cheapy Beam type only one I had access to
happen to stop at 120 ft pounds so I borrowed a clicker type, but do
not think I would again, but its my ride.
Dooden
A15 Green Ape
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engine rebuild - rotor removal
It took all my strength to get the rotor off and all my strength to put it
back so I figure its OK.
Dennis A18
The Big Red 1
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engine rebuild - rotor removal
On Tue, Dec 14, 2004 at 02:25:37PM -0500, Krgrife@... wrote:
I must just be missing something. Without a rotor holder wrench -- which the original poster wants to not have to buy -- what keeps everything from wiggling around on each blow from the impact wrench? I can't see how it is any better to use an impact wrench to tighten the bolt *without the rotor holder wrench in place* vs. an ordinary wrench. Can someone please explain this to me? *With* the rotor-holder wrench in place, sure. I know that it's possible to apply reasonably repeatable torque values with an impact wrench, even without a torque limiter (a.k.a. "torque stick). But without it, why would you expect things to work? That's the part I don't get. Thor> > > In a message dated 12/14/2004 11:22:28 AM Pacific Standard Time, >> tls@... writes: >> >> Again, I have to ask how it's actually _possible_ to know the actual torque >> value applied (by an impact wrench or otherwise) when the rotor is not held >> firmly in place. I definitely would not reinstall the rotor this way. > > As I posted, I use a torque wrench to reinstall the rotor. I think the > mechanics who use impact wrenches daily get a pretty good feel for it but I > certainly don't posess that skill level.
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ncis segment
Did you notice that later in the show, they kickstarted it? I think the
kicker bike was a XR Honda.
Bruce-in cold snowy Ohio (Moose, now I know why you left Pittsburgh)
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engine rebuild - rotor removal
the reason this works is because of the way in which an impact works
it bangs and just taps it in little increments. in otherwords it
isn't just a constant steady applied force which is therefor harder
to resist. whereas due to the nature of the impact it only requires
a little bit of resistance in order to resist the short and sudden
impacts. the definition of impact is a large amount of force
applied over an incredibly short period of time ie) ball hitting
bat. so the rotor is only wanting to move in little increments
which are quite easy to resist with very little force. i doubt if i
explained this very well but i am sure if you have seen an impact in
use a couple of times my explaination might help a little.
glenski
a14
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon
wrote:
Time,> On Tue, Dec 14, 2004 at 02:25:37PM -0500, Krgrife@a... wrote: > > > > > > In a message dated 12/14/2004 11:22:28 AM Pacific Standard
actual torque> >> tls@r... writes: > >> > >> Again, I have to ask how it's actually _possible_ to know the
rotor is not held> >> value applied (by an impact wrench or otherwise) when the
this way.> >> firmly in place. I definitely would not reinstall the rotor
think the> > > > As I posted, I use a torque wrench to reinstall the rotor. I
for it but I> > mechanics who use impact wrenches daily get a pretty good feel
which> > certainly don't posess that skill level. > > I must just be missing something. Without a rotor holder wrench --
everything from> the original poster wants to not have to buy -- what keeps
how it> wiggling around on each blow from the impact wrench? I can't see
the> is any better to use an impact wrench to tighten the bolt *without
please> rotor holder wrench in place* vs. an ordinary wrench. Can someone
possible> explain this to me? > > *With* the rotor-holder wrench in place, sure. I know that it's
wrench, even> to apply reasonably repeatable torque values with an impact
why> without a torque limiter (a.k.a. "torque stick). But without it,
> would you expect things to work? That's the part I don't get. > > Thor
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