adjusting steering bearing tension

[n4098k]

Hi All - I was hoping to aquire some input on who would be best ($ and quality) for the improved shaft lever, spring and associated tools (one wrench near as I can figure). Thus far I've heard of Eagle and Jake. My 1994 just clicked 16,000 and has been on Mobil 1 since 6,000. After reading some of these articles about shaft lever/chain failures at speed - I ride with my hand on the clutch....Just in case. I'd like to perform the "surgery" as soon as I can be sent the parts/tools. While she's ripped-down I plan to check valve clearances. I'm positive it's never been adjusted. Is it sinful to be a 16K w/o care? Shifting gears here - the color is killing me. What a rugged bike - why the pink and electric blue?? Geez. I see that dualstar has a black tank and seat. Good start. What about the plastic? Has anyone had success with paint on the blue/white plastic. Rocks, vibs and flexing would seem to thwart this effort. I've been told to save my sheckles as far as performance enhancements are concerned, but mine gets along pretty well - I've even seen 50mpg and commute in rain and have logged some snow time. It goes on the ferryboat two times/day - so a center stand is in order. Actually back in 1999 it fell over on the boat due to an inept crew. Glad they don't let these people touch airplanes. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience(s). It's nice to be connected to such a robust group of people. 648cc

[klr6501995]

I have a Jake Doohickey. Fairly certain that stainless steel is not needed in a oil bath. But then again I'm not a metalluralist. I just know that in my maintenance work I really never have seen a bunch of internal parts that are stainless. W/ the exception of chemical pumps. And now days ceramic or plastics are even better. Buy what you want to spend. Buy the one that you are willing to wait for. Pretty sure we'll hear from somebody on this topic. Maybe Iam Killing Enterest...???\ I always liked the percieved underdog.... Adjust your valves! Ran into a klr rider at a shop who said " I don't believe in adjusting shim over valve". He was a older Fla. farmer. He had a bit over 50,000 mi. on a 97-99( blue green) klr650. Who was I to argue ? 50,000+ mi and it started good and ran good( was a warm motor) Been on many a airplane and boat. I'm way certain a centerstand on a klr would not have preventented my bike from falling over,,,,,,,

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "n4098k" wrote: > Hi All - > > I was hoping to aquire some input on who would be best ($ and quality) > for the improved shaft lever, spring and associated tools (one wrench > near as I can figure). Thus far I've heard of Eagle and Jake. My 1994 > just clicked 16,000 and has been on Mobil 1 since 6,000. After reading > some of these articles about shaft lever/chain failures at speed - I > ride with my hand on the clutch....Just in case. I'd like to perform > the "surgery" as soon as I can be sent the parts/tools. While she's > ripped-down I plan to check valve clearances. I'm positive it's never > been adjusted. Is it sinful to be a 16K w/o care? > Shifting gears here - the color is killing me. What a rugged bike - > why the pink and electric blue?? Geez. I see that dualstar has a black > tank and seat. Good start. What about the plastic? Has anyone had > success with paint on the blue/white plastic. Rocks, vibs and flexing > would seem to thwart this effort. I've been told to save my sheckles > as far as performance enhancements are concerned, but mine gets along > pretty well - I've even seen 50mpg and commute in rain and have logged > some snow time. It goes on the ferryboat two times/day - so a center > stand is in order. Actually back in 1999 it fell over on the boat due > to an inept crew. Glad they don't let these people touch airplanes. > Thanks for taking the time to share your experience(s). It's nice to > be connected to such a robust group of people. > 648cc

[wannabsmooth1]

I've said this before........... I chose the material 17-4ph (which is considered a stainless steel) for it's mechanical properites. It has excellent toughness, and strength. It's commonly used in parts requiring high strength and toughness, such as springs, valves, and aircraft fittings. The strongest steel I know of is the maraging family, also considered a stainless steel - can be heat treated to 360KSI. You can find detailed info from material handbooks on Fred's site www.arrowheadmotorsports.com about my particular choice. You don't have to be a metallurgist, just need to know how find the right info. Parts and special tools are stocked by Arrowhead and Happy Trails. Perceived underdogs...hmmmm....we're both one man shops, unless Sagebrush has grown......... Mike Eagle Mfg & Eng since 1990 San Diego, Ca.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "klr6501995" wrote: > I have a Jake Doohickey. > Fairly certain that stainless steel is not needed in a oil bath. > But then again I'm not a metalluralist. > I just know that in my maintenance work I really never have seen a > bunch of internal parts that are stainless. W/ the exception of > chemical pumps. And now days ceramic or plastics are even better. > > Buy what you want to spend. Buy the one that you are willing to wait > for. > > Pretty sure we'll hear from somebody on this topic. Maybe Iam Killing > Enterest...???\ > > > I always liked the percieved underdog.... > > Adjust your valves! > > Ran into a klr rider at a shop who said " I don't believe in > adjusting shim over valve". He was a older Fla. farmer. He had a bit > over 50,000 mi. on a 97-99( blue green) klr650. > Who was I to argue ? 50,000+ mi and it started good and ran good( was > a warm motor) > > > > Been on many a airplane and boat. > I'm way certain a centerstand on a klr would not have preventented my > bike from falling over,,,,,,, > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "n4098k" wrote: > > Hi All - > > > > I was hoping to aquire some input on who would be best ($ and > quality) > > for the improved shaft lever, spring and associated tools (one > wrench > > near as I can figure). Thus far I've heard of Eagle and Jake. My > 1994 > > just clicked 16,000 and has been on Mobil 1 since 6,000. After > reading > > some of these articles about shaft lever/chain failures at speed - > I > > ride with my hand on the clutch....Just in case. I'd like to > perform > > the "surgery" as soon as I can be sent the parts/tools. While she's > > ripped-down I plan to check valve clearances. I'm positive it's > never > > been adjusted. Is it sinful to be a 16K w/o care? > > Shifting gears here - the color is killing me. What a rugged bike - > > why the pink and electric blue?? Geez. I see that dualstar has a > black > > tank and seat. Good start. What about the plastic? Has anyone had > > success with paint on the blue/white plastic. Rocks, vibs and > flexing > > would seem to thwart this effort. I've been told to save my > sheckles > > as far as performance enhancements are concerned, but mine gets > along > > pretty well - I've even seen 50mpg and commute in rain and have > logged > > some snow time. It goes on the ferryboat two times/day - so a > center > > stand is in order. Actually back in 1999 it fell over on the boat > due > > to an inept crew. Glad they don't let these people touch airplanes. > > Thanks for taking the time to share your experience(s). It's nice > to > > be connected to such a robust group of people. > > 648cc

[klr6501995]

And gotta bite on the hook baited by a troll(myself). Thought I was pretty evenly positive about the two products. Read between the lines. and I quote" Maybe Iam

> Killing > > Enterest...???"

Take the first letter wich is capilized. MIKE MIKE bit. Maybe this is one of the things Jake has griped about ? Vendor friday vs vendor anyday ??? I'm certain either product is 100 percent better than stock. Go flip a coin and then choose. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "wannabsmooth1" wrote:

> I've said this before........... I chose the material 17-4ph (which > is considered a stainless steel) for it's mechanical properites. It > has excellent toughness, and strength. It's commonly used in parts > requiring high strength and toughness, such as springs, valves, and > aircraft fittings. The strongest steel I know of is the maraging > family, also considered a stainless steel - can be heat treated to > 360KSI. You can find detailed info from material handbooks on

Fred's

> site www.arrowheadmotorsports.com about my particular choice. You > don't have to be a metallurgist, just need to know how find the > right info. > > Parts and special tools are stocked by Arrowhead and Happy Trails. > > Perceived underdogs...hmmmm....we're both one man shops, unless > Sagebrush has grown......... > > Mike > Eagle Mfg & Eng since 1990 > San Diego, Ca. > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "klr6501995" wrote: > > I have a Jake Doohickey. > > Fairly certain that stainless steel is not needed in a oil bath. > > But then again I'm not a metalluralist. > > I just know that in my maintenance work I really never have seen

a

> > bunch of internal parts that are stainless. W/ the exception of > > chemical pumps. And now days ceramic or plastics are even better. > > > > Buy what you want to spend. Buy the one that you are willing to > wait > > for. > > > > Pretty sure we'll hear from somebody on this topic. Maybe Iam > Killing > > Enterest...???\ > > > > > > I always liked the percieved underdog.... > > > > Adjust your valves! > > > > Ran into a klr rider at a shop who said " I don't believe in > > adjusting shim over valve". He was a older Fla. farmer. He had a > bit > > over 50,000 mi. on a 97-99( blue green) klr650. > > Who was I to argue ? 50,000+ mi and it started good and ran good( > was > > a warm motor) > > > > > > > > Been on many a airplane and boat. > > I'm way certain a centerstand on a klr would not have

preventented

> my > > bike from falling over,,,,,,, > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "n4098k" wrote: > > > Hi All - > > > > > > I was hoping to aquire some input on who would be best ($ and > > quality) > > > for the improved shaft lever, spring and associated tools (one > > wrench > > > near as I can figure). Thus far I've heard of Eagle and Jake.

My

> > 1994 > > > just clicked 16,000 and has been on Mobil 1 since 6,000. After > > reading > > > some of these articles about shaft lever/chain failures at > speed - > > I > > > ride with my hand on the clutch....Just in case. I'd like to > > perform > > > the "surgery" as soon as I can be sent the parts/tools. While > she's > > > ripped-down I plan to check valve clearances. I'm positive it's > > never > > > been adjusted. Is it sinful to be a 16K w/o care? > > > Shifting gears here - the color is killing me. What a rugged > bike - > > > why the pink and electric blue?? Geez. I see that dualstar has

a

> > black > > > tank and seat. Good start. What about the plastic? Has anyone > had > > > success with paint on the blue/white plastic. Rocks, vibs and > > flexing > > > would seem to thwart this effort. I've been told to save my > > sheckles > > > as far as performance enhancements are concerned, but mine gets > > along > > > pretty well - I've even seen 50mpg and commute in rain and have > > logged > > > some snow time. It goes on the ferryboat two times/day - so a > > center > > > stand is in order. Actually back in 1999 it fell over on the > boat > > due > > > to an inept crew. Glad they don't let these people touch > airplanes. > > > Thanks for taking the time to share your experience(s). It's > nice > > to > > > be connected to such a robust group of people. > > > 648cc

[Eric L. Green]

On Fri, 10 Sep 2004, Alan L Henderson wrote:

> > Well, like I said, we'll see what happens once I have time for a good > > freeway blast... the steering head bearings, BTW, *were* tensioned > > properly already according to what the Clymer manual said (the factory > > manual is the one that has the "too loose" and "too tight" stuff), but > > obviously needed to be tighter than that. > > > > -E > > > You might want to consider that you just over tightened your steering > head bearings and turned them into a steering damper thus stopping the > shake but not solving the problem that causes the shake.

I considered that. However, the amount of friction in the bars is just enough to keep them from flopping, not enough to add a significant damper. -E