best procedure to replace shock boots???

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Wed, Aug 11, 2004 at 11:17:39PM -0000, tdenman wrote:

> > Within seconds I was on my way to the dealer (in my car) to demand a > new bike or my money back. Their immediate response (Motorsport, > Albuquerque, NM) was that I had voided the warranty by doing the 500 > mile service myself (what does this have to do with anything?).

Doing the 500 mile service yourself doesn't void the warranty. This is a matter of Federal law and is not even slightly subject to debate. The dealer asked you to lie to cover their ass -- don't do it. Doon't do any more business with them at all. Call Kawasaki directly and insist on a brand-new bike from a *different* dealership; you can't trust the one you got the bike from now! They probably won't, but Kawasaki should thank you for telling them about a dealership this bad. Thor

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

What you do might depend on your intended outcome. If you are concerned about effects on the engine, I wouldn't sweat that too much as I doubt that there will be any real problem. (Automotive tech w/national certification, marine, motorcycle & small engine tech. 40 years experience.) If, on the other hand, you are pissed and want to punish someone (not an unreasonable position if you feel betrayed by the omission), good luck with that too. If you can arrange to have the right butt kicked there may be a benefit. While on that track however, you might wish to look over some potentially bigger issues while at the dealer. Mine had the lower shock link nut loose on the rear suspension. Loads of others have reported loose frame and suspension fasteners. Those things can get you hurt while the oil filter is small potatoes. (Not to minimize that you have every right to be pissed that it's missing) If it were me (which it isn't so you will have to decide what makes you comfortable) I'd try for some freebies such as accessories, services or such. I can see their position with regards to having the problem detected in their shop versus by you as it will be easier for them to convince Kawi that the problem existed if it was detected by them rather than by someone with unknown competency and unknown motives. (Not trying to ruffle your feathers just attempting to show the other side of the issue). Having seen far worse omissions while working in dealerships a missing filter doesn't surprise me. I also wouldn't get too twisted about it if they are trying to go to bat for you. Keep in mind that they will be sticking their necks out be claiming that the problem was detected in their shop. While their hearts may be in the right place by trying to help you in this manner I would be concerned about whether this consitutes fraud. I'm not a lawyer so can likely be trusted (VBG) however you may wish to consult one before agreeing to go this way.... Again, if it were me, I'd simply put the cover back on, top up the oil and drive it to the shop unless they have some reason to want to tow it. IMO you run more likelihood of having other issues from towing than from riding. The KLR isn't a Formula One machine which is a good thing as well as a bad one. Fit and finish, power output and so on reflect its modest level of technical sophistication but it is also very tough and tolerant of abuse. The KLR engine is far more like a small block Chevy than an Acura. For its application this is good. Good luck with your issue. I hope that it is resolved to your satisfaction. HIH Norm

[arthurcyeh]

When I bought my bike new, I asked about doing my own service. The suggestion was to let a dealer, any dealer, do the first service. I never got full elaboration. My bike is coming up on its 500 mi. mark and I plan to pay the piper. Sometimes it's cheaper to avoid the issues. Arthur Glendale area, Calif

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mike torst" wrote: > In my opinion, it is the owners word against theirs. Hear me out. The owner > can't prove the filter and tube were missing. SO, be flexible. - perhaps a > major extended warranty on the motor for 0 dollars. As to damage - I would > expect that minor metal particles have done some wear and tear, but not > extreme in nature. It IS a roller-bearing crank/rod motor, so the owner > should not get freaked out. Also, Video taping of all maintenance may help. > It would however, be easy to claim that the video was recorded after the > owner did something wrong and tried to video a proper DIY procedure. > > > Mike Torst > A16 > Las Vegas > > > -----Original Message----- > From: klr6501995 [mailto:vansee@n...] > Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 4:54 PM > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: New bike nightmare? > > > You did not void the warranty by doing the service yourself ! Changing oil > is covered in the USERS manual. DIY. > > Do not go along with thier plan about discovery on 1st shop service! That is > dishonest. Lie cheating stealing etc. And will bite you in > the butt later. With dividends. > > Get you a new bike and let them eat the cost. Every shop owner I have > EVER met does pretty well for himself. > > In all honesty; probably no damage was done. The oil screen will > handle most damaging particles. > But you did pay for a new bike. > JMHO. > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "tdenman" wrote: > > Hi Group, > > I'm a new member with a new 2005 KLR650. Being the conservative > > person I am, I changed my oil today at 300 miles. Guess what - I > > removed the oil filter cover and NO OIL FILTER! There was no > filter > > or the tube that pentrates the oil filter - just an empty cavity > > filled with oil! > > > > Within seconds I was on my way to the dealer (in my car) to demand > a > > new bike or my money back. Their immediate response (Motorsport, > > Albuquerque, NM) was that I had voided the warranty by doing the > 500 > > mile service myself (what does this have to do with anything?). > > After I read them the riot act they backed off slightly on that > > attitude. They agreed to have the bike towed to their facility > > to "evaluate the problem". Also, they encouraged me to support a > > story that the defect was found when I had brought the bike in for > > the first service. I'm still waiting for the evaluation - should be > > tomorrow... What a mess! > > > > In reality, how much damage could have been incured by doing the > > first 300 miles of break-in with no oil filter or the supporting > > cylinder in place? Should I take the dealer's word on the > condition > > of my cylider, transmission, etc. or try to get another opinon? I > > believe the dealer to be reputable - they have been in business for > > decades, but the attitude of the service people really ticked me > off. > > > > What would you do? > > > > Tom Denman > > Albuquerque, NM > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by > sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links

[Jim]

Wednesday, August 11, 2004, 10:47:47 PM, arthurcyeh wrote: a> When I bought my bike new, I asked about doing my own service. The suggestion was to a> let a dealer, any dealer, do the first service. I never got full elaboration. My bike is Well if this occurs with any frequency (doubtful but you never know) I can imagine why dealers encourage customers to bring their bikes in for the first service. They would simple pop in a oil filter and you would have no idea your bike ran for 500 miles with no filter. jim - who at this point is somewhat comforted by the knowledge that the only dumbass mechanic working on his bike is himself!

[Mike Torst]

MarkB from Glendale, can you add in some thoughts? Mike Torst Las Vegas -----Original Message----- From: arthurcyeh [mailto:arthurcyeh@...] Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 7:48 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: New bike nightmare? When I bought my bike new, I asked about doing my own service. The suggestion was to let a dealer, any dealer, do the first service. I never got full elaboration. My bike is coming up on its 500 mi. mark and I plan to pay the piper. Sometimes it's cheaper to avoid the issues. Arthur Glendale area, Calif

[Mike Torst]

Jim, make that two owner mech 'dumbasses". My real guess is over 3/4 of this list is populated with guy that do some, if not all, of all of the work on their KLR's. I have met the staff at several local Pacific Rim and Euro dealers - The mechanics could do real work and do it in an acceptable manner, but they are not rewarded for quality work. Speed of completion rules. THAT is my concern. Most of the mechanics I talked to are OK, but put an OK mechanic into a rush to move onto another project w/o the financial incentive to do the current job well - well, most of us can figure it out from there. I'll do my own work. Mike Torst Las Vegas -----Original Message----- From: Jim [mailto:klr650@...] Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 7:57 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: New bike nightmare? Wednesday, August 11, 2004, 10:47:47 PM, arthurcyeh wrote: a> When I bought my bike new, I asked about doing my own service. The a> suggestion was to let a dealer, any dealer, do the first service. I a> never got full elaboration. My bike is Well if this occurs with any frequency (doubtful but you never know) I can imagine why dealers encourage customers to bring their bikes in for the first service. They would simple pop in a oil filter and you would have no idea your bike ran for 500 miles with no filter. jim - who at this point is somewhat comforted by the knowledge that the only dumbass mechanic working on his bike is himself!

[Martin Fletchall]

Thanks MarkB and anyone else... Fletch -----Original Message----- From: dumbazz650 [mailto:MBAKARICH@...] Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 3:53 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Best procedure to replace shock boots??? --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Martin Fletchall" wrote:

> > Been looking through the FAQ and the "usual suspects" for KLR

sites.

> > I can't find any how to's on how to replace my shock boots. i.e. the > simplest easiest way to do it... > > Anyone know where there's a walk through? >

Fletch, Did you mean the fork boots? Standard Disclaimer: Remember, working on your bike puts the responsibility for proper work right where it belongs, on your shoulders. If you screw this up and the bike crashes, you could die, or be horribly maimed. If the shop screw it up, your estate sues them. Better to get it right and stay alive. Your bike, your responsibility. If you accept the responsibility, then for entertainment purposes, I offer the following. It's not perfect, just a draft of that process. 1. Put bike up on stand and secure well to prevent tip-over. 2. Remove front wheel; .. a. remove cotter pin .. b. loosen nut and remove from axle and washers .. c. remove front wheel, being careful of speedo cable and .. . . dive hub on right side of wheel .. d. keep parts separated, labelled, and clean of dirt/debris 3. Remove brake caliper and brake line from side of left fork tube. .. It's held on by two hex key style bolts. .. NOTE: DO NOT remove brake line from caliper or master cylinder! .. Suspend brake caliper with rope or bungee to prevent stress on .. brake line. 4. Remove LEFT fork tube and replace rubber boot .. NOTE: carefully note the postition of the fork tubes -they may heve been installed with 1/8inch to 1.5inch of tube extending above the triple clamp. .. a. loosen the two pinch bolts on top triple clamp .. b. loosen the two pinch bolts on bottom triple clamp .. c. slide the fork tube out of the triple clamp .. d. carefully cut old boot away, do not knick or scrape fork tube. .. e. install the new fork boot into place, aligning it so that the .. . . small drain holes are to the rear. may need lube, I use spit. .. f. reinstall fork tube into triple clamp, aliging it to the same height as was noted above. it should match the right fork tube. .. g. tighten the bottom pinch bolts to spec .. h. recheck the top pinch bolts, they may change when you do the .. . . bottoms .. i. recheck the bottom pinch bolts, they may change when you do the .. . . tops 5. Repeat process for right fork tube & boot. 6. Re-install front wheel, being careful to put spacers and speedo drive together properly. Torque front axle to spec and install new cotter pin. 7. Re-install front brake caliper, careful to get pad into alignment on either side of the front brake rotor. Torque rotor bolts to spec. Verify that pads float freely and are not binding on their mounting pins. 8. Spin wheel to test rotation and abscence of drag. 9. Spin wheel and test front brake to ensure proper working. 10. Take bike for short test drive, and then recheck all bolts and fittings for proper installation and working. That's from memory, you probably want to check the manual for specs on pinch bolts, brake caliper bolts, and the front axle. You do have a manual and a torque wrench don't you? I reinforce the safety aspect for good reason. Test and doublecheck everything, if your front wheel locks-up unexpectedly during rush hour traffic and you get tossed into oncoming traffic, it will spoil your day, and maybe your life. If your forks suddenly collapse onto the front tire, it will lock up, just like instant power brakes. HTH, MarkB List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Yahoo! Groups Links