bits for sale

[clutz003]

I am in the process of adding an electrical accessory fuse kit and after removing the positive battery screw without any apparent issues it does not seem to want to "bite" into the lead in order to reinstall. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. (Maybe I should just stick to accounting). Thanks, Craig A18

[Doug Herr]

On Sat, 10 Jul 2004, clutz003 wrote:

> I am in the process of adding an electrical accessory fuse kit and > after removing the positive battery screw without any apparent > issues it does not seem to want to "bite" into the lead in order to > reinstall. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. (Maybe I > should just stick to accounting).

If it is the stock battery and you are trying to "bite" the bolt into the lead then you have lost the little nut that the bolt is supposed to hold on to. This is easy to do since it can fall right out once you have the bolt off. Take a look around and I get you find it. -- Doug Herr doug@...

[Greg Roberts]

Craig, Virtually every motorcycle battery I have ever dealt with does NOT have threaded terminals. It should consist of a tab (or hoop) with a hole in it, with the cables secured to the terminal with a nut and bolt. You probably just need to use a small screwdriver or knife blade (disconnect the negative terminal so you won't accidentally short circuit the battery ) and lift the nut up so that it will engage with the bolt. ( screw). Greg Roberts

----- Original Message ----- From: "clutz003" Subject: [DSN_klr650] Stripped positive battery connection? > I am in the process of adding an electrical accessory fuse kit and > after removing the positive battery screw without any apparent > issues it does not seem to want to "bite" into the lead in order to > reinstall. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. (Maybe I > should just stick to accounting). > > Thanks, > > Craig > A18 --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

[clutz003]

Thanks, never found a nut for the screw so I cut a small section of wire and put it into the hole and then was able to get a bite into the lead. Craig A18

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote: > On Sat, 10 Jul 2004, clutz003 wrote: > > > I am in the process of adding an electrical accessory fuse kit and > > after removing the positive battery screw without any apparent > > issues it does not seem to want to "bite" into the lead in order to > > reinstall. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. (Maybe I > > should just stick to accounting). > > If it is the stock battery and you are trying to "bite" the bolt > into the lead then you have lost the little nut that the bolt is > supposed to hold on to. This is easy to do since it can fall > right out once you have the bolt off. Take a look around and I > get you find it. > > -- > Doug Herr > doug@w...

[pete88chester]

Sat. 7/10/04 Craig wrote: Thanks, never found a nut for the screw so I cut a small section of wire and put it into the hole and then was able to get a bite into the lead. Craig A18 Craig, that isn't the way to attach the battery wire. In the slot under the hole the bolt holding the battery wire goes through (the one you put the piece of wire in to get a bite) is where you slide in a nut, a 6mm nut measuring 10mm across the flats. It will just fit in there. You then put the bolt through the eye of the battery wire connecter, down through the hole in the top of the battery post, thread it into the nut & tighten it. I am assuming you have the original bolt that held the battery wire. If not, do not replace it with a bolt that is too long. If you do it would go below the nut & try to screw into the base of the battery post damaging the post &/or breaking the post loose from the battery. What you did may be alright for a temporary fix, but not long term. Pete Chester A16

[Greg Roberts]

----- Original Message ----- From: "pete88chester" > Sat. 7/10/04 Craig wrote: > > Thanks, never found a nut for the screw so I cut a small section of > wire and put it into the hole and then was able to get a bite into > the lead. > > Craig > A18 > > Craig, that isn't the way to attach the battery wire. In the slot > under the hole the bolt holding the battery wire goes through (the > one you put the piece of wire in to get a bite) is where you slide in > a nut, a 6mm nut measuring 10mm across the flats. It will just fit > in there. You then put the bolt through the eye of the battery wire > connecter, down through the hole in the top of the battery post, > thread it into the nut & tighten it. I am assuming you have the > original bolt that held the battery wire. If not, do not replace it > with a bolt that is too long. If you do it would go below the nut & > try to screw into the base of the battery post damaging the post &/or > breaking the post loose from the battery. What you did may be > alright for a temporary fix, but not long term. Pete Chester A16 > I strongly agree with Pete here. You really do need to use the correct bolt and nut. What you've done will work for one or two crankings, but with just a little riding it is going to vibrate and loosen up. When it does it will creak a high-resistance connection that will overheat and/or arc, potentially causing an explosion or arcing and melting of the battery terminal (not to mention stranding you!). Greg Roberts --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

[mark93892000]

hi my klr 600 has broke down again and im sick of fixing it so i,m selling off all the parts that are some good i,m going to put them on e-bay but i thought i,d let you guys av a look first if your interested plz e-mail me at mark9389@... or ring me on 07786061314 the prices i put are what i want roughly but i am open to negotiation ( a bit ) -------------------------- newly powdercoated black tank 50 pounds newly coverd black seat 20 pounds polished swing arm 20 pounds rear alloy subframe 20 pounds frame 1984 a1 model with v5 150 pounds brand new hagon rear shock 200 pounds wireing harness 40 pounds front wheel 30 pounds back wheel 40 pounds rear suspention linkage 25 pounds radiators and reserve tank 40 pounds carb including dynojet kit 50 pounds black radiator scoops new 30 pounds header pipe 20 pounds entire engine in peices all in pretty good condition heads a bit nakerd and the engine has seized but most of the bottom end is sound crank cases and gearbox and so on 150 pounds complete but will split