grip heaters & batteries

[John]

Happy Easter... Have a slight problem that is driving me insane and hope that a few of you might have seen or experienced similar. Bike: A11 (650 miles), No CA emissions (removed). Problem: Engine will idle for approximately 1 minute then die. Hard starting (thumb starter switch and approx. 3/4 throttle) and a small poof of black smoke. The bike used to start right up. Choke on, push switch, vroom. City riding was not a problem as it idled just as it should around 1200-1300 rpm. Needless to say some twisties (Seven Springs Road, AZ) were a pain in the ass as the bike would die when pulling in the clutch and not getting on the throttle soon enough while trying to use the front brake. HA! The bike seems to run fine at speed (60-65 mph). I had just changed the oil and filter after checking valve clearances after the 500 mile mark (ok 539 miles, but who's counting?). No changes were made. The bike idled just fine immediately afterward, as I let the oil circulate for a few minutes before checking the level again. Thanks in advance for your time. John

[kcuf_oohay_666]

sounds flodded. when you put the tank back on after the valve adjustment did you connect the fuel line and the vacuum line in the right spot? Other than that you may have gotten dirt in the fuel line when you had it disconected and its holding the float needle open

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "John" wrote: > Happy Easter... > > Have a slight problem that is driving me insane and hope that a few of > you might have seen or experienced similar. > > Bike: A11 (650 miles), No CA emissions (removed). > Problem: Engine will idle for approximately 1 minute then die. Hard > starting (thumb starter switch and approx. 3/4 throttle) and a small > poof of black smoke. > > The bike used to start right up. Choke on, push switch, vroom. City > riding was not a problem as it idled just as it should around > 1200-1300 rpm. > > Needless to say some twisties (Seven Springs Road, AZ) were a pain in > the ass as the bike would die when pulling in the clutch and not > getting on the throttle soon enough while trying to use the front > brake. HA! The bike seems to run fine at speed (60-65 mph). > > I had just changed the oil and filter after checking valve clearances > after the 500 mile mark (ok 539 miles, but who's counting?). No > changes were made. The bike idled just fine immediately afterward, as > I let the oil circulate for a few minutes before checking the level again. > > Thanks in advance for your time. > > John

[Judson D. Jones]

Check that the carb vent hose is unobstructed, and that fuel line and petcock vacuum are properly routed and not kinked. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "John" wrote:

> Happy Easter... > > Have a slight problem that is driving me insane and hope that

a few of

> you might have seen or experienced similar. > > Bike: A11 (650 miles), No CA emissions (removed). > Problem: Engine will idle for approximately 1 minute then die.

Hard

> starting (thumb starter switch and approx. 3/4 throttle) and a

small

> poof of black smoke. > > The bike used to start right up. Choke on, push switch, vroom.

City

> riding was not a problem as it idled just as it should around > 1200-1300 rpm. > > Needless to say some twisties (Seven Springs Road, AZ) were

a pain in

> the ass as the bike would die when pulling in the clutch and

not

> getting on the throttle soon enough while trying to use the front > brake. HA! The bike seems to run fine at speed (60-65 mph). > > I had just changed the oil and filter after checking valve

clearances

> after the 500 mile mark (ok 539 miles, but who's counting?).

No

> changes were made. The bike idled just fine immediately

afterward, as

> I let the oil circulate for a few minutes before checking the level

again.

> > Thanks in advance for your time. > > John

[dirtallday]

My bike is acting funny when idling...it sometimes runs really high like 3,000 RPMs while other times barely makes it over 1,000. It is a pain because it suddenly can stall at intersections. The idle RPMs fluctuate even when the bike is warm or cold. Any ideas what this could be?

[rm@richardmay.net]

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 klrdon@... wrote:

>Let's say I got the grip heaters blazing, the high beam on and the >lectric vest running, too. Will a voltmeter drop below 12.5V indicate >more load than the alternator can support? Prolly an old discussion but >I'm a newbie with KLR650s. What is the wattage typically available over >that which is needed for system life support?

The battery's no-load voltage is roughly 12.9 volts. Anything less than this during operation indicates a discharge condition. At what RPM are you seeing this voltage? RM