help regarding clutch pull comparsion

[Dan Bittner]

Andrew Millerized is truly one of those fortunate individuals who must have a KLR that has been blessed by the man himself to be able to lock the front wheel with any tire combo with the stock front brake. As far as a "practiced rider" stopping as fast with the stock set up compared to a larger rotor equipped bike, MAP or otherwise, that might be possible, which I doubt, at a speed of perhaps 50 mph or less, for ONE hard stop. Are you guys flat landers who have never ridden a loaded stock KLR down a long mountain pass? Are you familiar with the term brake fade? Even with the MAP rotor, stock caliper, steel braided line and Galfer green pads I consider my KLR front brake no more than adequate, but way better than the stock Flintstone brake, not to mention that any professionally written evaluation of the KLR that I've ever read always mentions the weak front brake. Of course, what do they know? For a responsible individual to recommend to someone that they NOT upgrade is a terrible disservice. Dan Bittner Sacramento A16 03 YZF 600R (snipped) Original Message ---- From: "propagandrew" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 7:15 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Oversize Rotor now my rant

> What I think people fail to understand is millerized's argument that > if you are able to lock up your front wheel with your current rotor > size, then there is NO WAY to further decrease your braking distance. > This is fact. Either your brakes are capable of providing more force > than the available traction or they are not. This is not to say that > the way the brake lever pulls does not effect braking. If you are > accustomed to the way your brake lever pulls and can brake with > precision up to the point your tire locks, you will minimize your > braking distance. Millerized says he is like one with his front brake > lever and I'd have to believe him that, for him, the new rotor would > be nothing but a downgrade in braking. > Is this the case for everyone? Probably not. Do I think practiced > rider with a stock rotor and a practiced rider with a larger rotor > (all other things being equal) will stop in the exact same distance? > Indeed. > > Andrew

[bigfatgreenbike]

Well, everyone else has weighed in so why not add my $0.02 to the pile. We might have enough for a 40oz when it's all added together. The stock KLR front brake is crap. If you feel otherwise, you either are blessed with a 1 in 10,000 bike with a front brake system built to perfect tolerance, or have never ridden a bike with really, really good brakes. A stainless line and better pads just about brought it up to "acceptable". If I wasn't using DOT knobbies, I doubt anything else but a big rotor and maybe a four-piston caliper would feel right. As it is, I manage with the DRZ caliper (two piston), a cheap-ass rotor, and whatever pads the local shop has on hand when I finally hit metal on metal. I also just don't really speed much on this bike. "Being able to lock the wheel" is not a reasonable measure of how good the brakes are. You should have linear, powerful brakes with good feedback that don't take a caveman squeeze to stop hard. You should be able to ride twisties or city traffic all day and not get hand cramps, or get arm pump. You should not need four fingers on the brakes, because then you can't cover the lever with two fingers, and you've just given up nearly a half second in reaction time. One finger should be enough offroad. Having a front brake that can't quite lock the front wheel on dry pavement isn't a safety feature- It's great that a panicked grab can't lock the front, but what happens when you have to ride in the rain? If you're not used to modulating the front brake, that same squeeze that howls the front on dry pavement will throw you on your ass in the wet. Not that racing is all that relevant, but given everything else is equal, the bike with the best brakes will win. -- Devon Brooklyn, NY A15-Z '01 KLR650 '81 SR500 cafe racer "The truth's not too popular these days....." Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man

[dooden]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "motopelli" wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "James L. Miller Jr." > wrote: > > I must have the exception to the rule. I can't stand it on the > front > > wheel, but I can lock up every tire I've ever had on this bike, and > > that's normally with just 2 fingers. Kenda Challengers, stock > > Dunlop, and even the K270's. I can put them all to howling if I > > want. > > > Good for you. So with that logic, you shouldn't have to make any > changes at all on the KLR. But maybe, just maybe, a person likes the > feedback and progressive feel the new rotor gives and gives them a > bit more confidence on the bike. Why is that a bad thing? > > What you refer to in your post is widely known as the "Volvo > Syndrome". In a nutshell, when Volvo cars were rated as the safest > cars, people went out, bought them and drove them throwing caution to > the wind and thus, Volvos are involved in more accidents than any > other car. I think this is more true for people who go out and buy > Aerostich riding suits than those who upgrade brakes, but that is > another post. > > If a mod is going to give a rider the slightest edge in safety, do > it. You cannot argue the fact that an oversized rotor on a KLR > enhances its braking. I submit to you that an oversized rotor on a > KLR650 is money well spent. Much better than money spent on dash > boards, highwaypegs, anodized fork legs, loud pipes, etc... > > Gino > Rider Valley Motorcycles

Again, different use equals different application, as Mr Miller pointed out for him the front braking is fine, I have no reason to even consider an oversized rotor, but then again I am not a traveler on my KLR so speed is not much of an issue to me. Just how oversized is this rotor anyway ? Seems too much bigger and the thing would be getting mud baths alot to me and that can not be good for it. Dooden A15 Green Ape

[ART]

My 2003 DR650 has avery light clutch pull.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Tyne" wrote: > I've been interested in dual sports bikes for sometime and have > really enjoyed reading this list for sometime. > > Does anyone have an opinion as to which of the major dualies (KLR650, > Suzuki's DR650, Honda's XR650) has the easiest (lightest) clutch > lever pull? > > I have a left wrist injury that makes hard clutch levers difficult. > I've ridden the KLR 650 and found it pretty stiff. Thanks for the > help. > > > Keith