tennessee dohicky

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2004-01-19 11:57:00 PM Pacific Standard Time, z89101@... writes:

> > Oh, you are such a bitch J > > > > Pat, your travels in my old grounds gets me going. I am so wanting for the > central/ northern sierras. You have got me.! > > > > Following Technique - my ass- doing a full dry rebuild of the forks is a > NON-issue. A jam nut for the damper rod and the rest is easy. Why would anyone > leave old stuff in place? I mean. Rebuild it~! NO old lube in the tubes. > > > > Mike T. > > >

Now I don't go about just leaving the gunk in the bottom. One or two fillings with kerosene, lots of pumping so my solvent picks up the gunk and then drain. BTW, my new favorite trick tool is a 27 pound, plastic Tidy Cat tube. At one of the narrow ends I've cut a notch that lets me slip it over the bottom of the fork, the notch being the spot for the axle. Then when I drain fork oil, no mess. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2004-01-20 6:10:25 AM Pacific Standard Time, ttcarey1@... writes:

> > Yeah Pat, this is the way nearly all of Marzocchi's modern MTB > forks do their oil servicing, and it's an important tuning issue for > bottom-out. They make great MTB forks. > Thad Carey > A15 (wearing Barbie's stuff) > >

Are the newer Marzocchis still doing the rebound dampening in one leg and compression in the other? That's one of the things I liked about the set I have. Back in the early 90s one the trick XC setups was to get a set of these Marzooks off a Cagiva MX ad graft them to the front of your Japanese MXer. Mine were so sensitive to tuning by oil that I would change oil weights from winter to summer. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]