----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Hink" To: ; Cc: ; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 8:20 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] locked motor (part 2) > Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release > > This device helps the engine start by holding open one exhaust valve at very > low rpms. You will hear a clatter in the head if you run your engine slower > than the recommended idle speed. This is this mechanism trying to hold open > an exhaust valve and will kick off once the rpms come up to idle or above. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html
tankbags which one?
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locked motor (part 2)
I have been trying to visualize what can be done to disable the KACR. I see
in the diagram what looks like spinning weights similar to those used to
change timing in a distributor. It looks like there is a spring that
opposes the weights and bringing them back together as RPM decreases. If I
am correct, would simply removing the spring prevent the compression release
from actuating? If the system were disabled by removing the spring, would
the rotating parts still present the potential for failure and damage? It
seems like the weights would simply spin unopposed at their wide-open
position. Thus whatever linkage would normally open a valve with the engine
running at very low RPM would not do that.
Because the proof is in the pudding and all the theory in the world is
rendered null and void by actual experience, has anyone here actually
disabled their KACR by removing the spring or some other non-surgical method
that does not need removal of the cam?
How does one gain access to the KACR components?
-Jim in AZ
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locked motor (part 2)
jwalsh21@... wrote:
The KACR is accessed by removing the valve cover, like when doing a valve clearance check. I guess you could remove the spring, and safety-wire the mechanism with the weights in the flung-out position. This way the KACR wouldn't hit anything, it would just sit and spin. It seems like the KACR whacks the right-hand exhaust shim every time it actuates, it's definitely not a smoothly functioning design. Devon>I have been trying to visualize what can be done to disable the KACR. I see >in the diagram what looks like spinning weights similar to those used to >change timing in a distributor. It looks like there is a spring that >opposes the weights and bringing them back together as RPM decreases. If I >am correct, would simply removing the spring prevent the compression release >from actuating? If the system were disabled by removing the spring, would >the rotating parts still present the potential for failure and damage? It >seems like the weights would simply spin unopposed at their wide-open >position. Thus whatever linkage would normally open a valve with the engine >running at very low RPM would not do that. >Because the proof is in the pudding and all the theory in the world is >rendered null and void by actual experience, has anyone here actually >disabled their KACR by removing the spring or some other non-surgical method >that does not need removal of the cam? >How does one gain access to the KACR components? >-Jim in AZ >
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locked motor (part 2)
On Tue, 2003-11-25 at 13:42, Devon wrote:
Ack... I don't think I'd trust anything short of welding the KACR closed. The common failure mode is when the pin holding on the weighted arm fails and even with the arm wired shut, the pin could still fail. I would bet most wear on the pin occurs at low rpms where KACR disengages/engages... IIRC, the KACR lobe rides directly on the camshaft, transferring the force of opening the valve to the camshaft. Within the enable/disable rpm (quite wide according to the service manual) for the KACR, that pin must get hammered by the weighted arm. I can't imagine getting knocked about 8x second does anything for the pins lifespan. Z DC A5X A12X> The KACR is accessed by removing the valve cover, like when doing a > valve clearance check. > > I guess you could remove the spring, and safety-wire the mechanism with > the weights in the flung-out position. This way the KACR wouldn't hit > anything, it would just sit and spin. > > It seems like the KACR whacks the right-hand exhaust shim every time it > actuates, it's definitely not a smoothly functioning design. > > Devon
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locked motor (part 2)
----- Original Message ----- From: "Devon" > > It seems like the KACR whacks the right-hand exhaust shim every time it > actuates, it's definitely not a smoothly functioning design. > > Yea, when I removed mine at 79,000 miles, I was surprised how much wear was on the pin that hits the shim. It's not that bad to remove the cam shaft, just put it at TDC with the arrows on the cams pointing forward, and remove the cam chain adjuster, not just the spring. Hardest part is not dropping the screws down into the motor when you remove the top chain guide. Allan A14
locked motor (part 2)
the service> Ack... I don't think I'd trust anything short of welding the KACR > closed. ...Within the enable/disable rpm (quite wide according to
arm. I> manual) for the KACR, that pin must get hammered by the weighted
pins> can't imagine getting knocked about 8x second does anything for the
I think the KACR has earned a fuller treatment in the FAQ. What do you think Krokko? Paul A16L 01 M750 'G' SF, CA> lifespan.
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tankbags which one?
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, ktamcm@a... wrote:
Session=touratech%3A057236> looking at these 2 models any comments? > > http://www.touratech-usa.com/shop/search_sku.lasso?-
Christmas> 7A7985605A400287960AAA13BD&SKU=055-1068+ > > and > > http://wolfmanluggage.com/03Tank/Explorer.html > > Both about same price. My wife is looking to get this maybe for
I had the wolfan tank bag, but now I have the Dual Star bag. The Wolfman is a good bag, if you get it you will be happy with it. But for the money the Dual Star bag is way better. It has more room. it's made from heavier Material. It has a rubber bottom so your contents wont smell like gas if you spill a little during a fill up. It also fits the KLR better and doesn't flop around like the Wolfman. It's harness is made for the stock steal fuel tank, but I made it fit my plastic IMS tank. I have not bought the rain cover yet, but plan to Dual Star tank bag click below http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/K ... 650%20Tank% 20Bag.htm> for me? > > Kurt Thomas >
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