nice riding gear cheap. nklr

[steve_rolfeca]

I'm getting ready to finally install the Sagebrush doohickey that I bought last year. My dealer's parts guy happily sold me the gaskets, bolt and a puller, but suggested that the (expensive) rotor holder was unecessary. The service manager agreed. He recommended that I just have a friend stand on the back brake pedal, while I crank on the puller bolt with a breaker bar. Has anyone else done a doohickey job this way? Is there risk of damage to anything in doing so? Steve Rolfe. '02 A16, 8,000km on stock doohickey, no weird noises just yet...

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> The service manager agreed. He recommended that I just have a friend > stand on the back brake pedal, while I crank on the puller bolt with > a breaker bar.

I have to wonder what in the world the service manager was thinking when he suggested that standing on the rear brake pedal would somehow prevent the rotor from turning. I think that it's a VERY good thing you're planning on doing the work yourself! Following is a link to my webpage which walks you through the procedure, and starts with a link to Devon's page - also on doohickey replacement. Take a look, and see if you can figure out the mysterious relationship between the rotor and rear brake. (Grinning) (You need a wrench.) http://klr6500.tripod.com/doohickey.htm A 1 1/4" wrench is the correct fit, or you can get the official wrench for the job from Arrowhead Motorsports or Sagebrush Machine Shop: (Arrowhead) http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html (Sagebrush) http://sagebrushmachine.netfirms.com/ Mark My KLR650 Motorcycle Website: http://klr6500.tripod.com/ Our HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html

[Allan Patton]

Use an impact wrench to pull the rotor. If you don't have one, borrow one and an air bubble. It pops off very easy this way. If you think you must use a breaker bar, tighten a little, then tap on the puller with a hammer, tighten a little more and tap. Just pulling with a breaker bar could cause the puller to strip the threads. Where are you? Bet someone in your area would loan the tool if you ask. I' ve loaned mine to local KLR riders. Allan A14

----- Original Message ----- From: "steve_rolfeca" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 12:10 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Rotor removal without holder tool? > I'm getting ready to finally install the Sagebrush doohickey that I > bought last year. > > My dealer's parts guy happily sold me the gaskets, bolt and a puller, > but suggested that the (expensive) rotor holder was unecessary. > > The service manager agreed. He recommended that I just have a friend > stand on the back brake pedal, while I crank on the puller bolt with > a breaker bar. > > Has anyone else done a doohickey job this way? Is there risk of > damage to anything in doing so? > > Steve Rolfe. > '02 A16, 8,000km on stock doohickey, no weird noises just yet... > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Jim The Canoeist]

There is linkage between the crankshaft (read flywheel) and the rear brake through an engaged clutch, in-gear (higher gear more likely to not overpower), chain-to-rear wheel & brake. I don't think there would be much wrong with that method except that perhaps it won't work somehow because of all the torque needed to remove the bolt and apply the puller. Is the service manager wrong? If so, why? Anyone close to Mark and can run a loaner wrench over to him? Where is he at? -Jim in AZ

----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark St.Hilaire, Sr" To: "1 - KLR650 List" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>; "steve_rolfeca" Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 11:35 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Rotor removal without holder tool? > > The service manager agreed. He recommended that I just have a friend > > stand on the back brake pedal, while I crank on the puller bolt with > > a breaker bar. > > I have to wonder what in the world the service manager was thinking when he > suggested that standing on the rear brake pedal would somehow prevent the > rotor from turning. I think that it's a VERY good thing you're planning on > doing the work yourself! > > Following is a link to my webpage which walks you through the procedure, and > starts with a link to Devon's page - also on doohickey replacement. Take a > look, and see if you can figure out the mysterious relationship between the > rotor and rear brake. (Grinning) (You need a wrench.) > http://klr6500.tripod.com/doohickey.htm > > A 1 1/4" wrench is the correct fit, or you can get the official wrench for > the job from Arrowhead Motorsports or Sagebrush Machine Shop: > > (Arrowhead) > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html > > (Sagebrush) > http://sagebrushmachine.netfirms.com/ > > Mark

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 12:36 PM -0600 10/27/03, Allan Patton wrote:

>Use an impact wrench to pull the rotor. If you don't have one, borrow one >and an air bubble. It pops off very easy this way.

Before I had air tools and the rotor wrench, this is what I did when I swapped balancer gears: 1. mark the position of the retaining bolt on both the bolt and rotor 2. put a 1/2" drive socket & ratchet on the bolt 3. whack with a 2 lb mini-sledge 4. use the socket/sledge combo on the puller bolt as well 5. on reassembly, whack the retaining bolt 1/16 to 1/12 of a turn past the original position This technique worked just fine and everything held together for three years until I went back in to upgrade the doohickey. Mark

[PauL M. Bober]

Whack .. is that the technical term .. lol ! Thanks .. it worked me! PauL M. Bober -----Original Message----- From: Tengai Mark Van Horn [mailto:Tengai650@...] Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 1:00 PM To: Allan Patton Cc: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com; steve_rolfeca Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Rotor removal without holder tool? At 12:36 PM -0600 10/27/03, Allan Patton wrote:

>Use an impact wrench to pull the rotor. If you don't have one, borrow one >and an air bubble. It pops off very easy this way.

Before I had air tools and the rotor wrench, this is what I did when I swapped balancer gears: 1. mark the position of the retaining bolt on both the bolt and rotor 2. put a 1/2" drive socket & ratchet on the bolt 3. whack with a 2 lb mini-sledge 4. use the socket/sledge combo on the puller bolt as well 5. on reassembly, whack the retaining bolt 1/16 to 1/12 of a turn past the original position This technique worked just fine and everything held together for three years until I went back in to upgrade the doohickey. Mark List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Mon, Oct 27, 2003 at 12:14:50PM -0700, Jim The Canoeist wrote:

> There is linkage between the crankshaft (read flywheel) and the rear brake > through an engaged clutch, in-gear (higher gear more likely to not > overpower), chain-to-rear wheel & brake. I don't think there would be much > wrong with that method except that perhaps it won't work somehow because of > all the torque needed to remove the bolt and apply the puller. Is the > service manager wrong? If so, why?

I'd be more concerned about applying the correct measured torque to re-seat the rotor. Breaking the rotor free requires significantly less effort, and there's no critical torque value involved.

[steve_rolfeca]

Yep, I should have been more clear in my original message. The dealer was expecting that I would kick 'er into gear, thus making the required connection between crank and rear wheel... Like Jim, I was sort of wondering whether I would overpower the rear brake as I hauled on the breaker bar. Perhaps I'm over-estimating my strength, as usual! Anyway, if anyone who lives near Ottawa, Ontario, Canada feels like loaning me a rotor holder tool, I certainly wouldn't kick. Hmm. I wonder if this represents a New Tool Opportunity: "Honey, I'm just running out to Home Depot for an air compressor"... Steve Rolfe '02 A16 --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim The Canoeist" wrote:

> There is linkage between the crankshaft (read flywheel) and the

rear brake

> through an engaged clutch, in-gear (higher gear more likely to not > overpower), chain-to-rear wheel & brake. I don't think there would

be much

> wrong with that method except that perhaps it won't work somehow

because of

> all the torque needed to remove the bolt and apply the puller. Is

the

> service manager wrong? If so, why? > Anyone close to Mark and can run a loaner wrench over to him?

Where is he

> at? > -Jim in AZ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark St.Hilaire, Sr" > To: "1 - KLR650 List" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>; "steve_rolfeca" > > Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 11:35 AM > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Rotor removal without holder tool? > > > > > The service manager agreed. He recommended that I just have a > > > friend stand on the back brake pedal, while I crank on the > > > puller bolt with a breaker bar. > > > > I have to wonder what in the world the service manager was > > thinking when he suggested that standing on the rear brake > > pedal would somehow prevent the rotor from turning. I think > > that it's a VERY good thing you're planning on > > doing the work yourself! > > > > Following is a link to my webpage which walks you through the > > procedure, and starts with a link to Devon's page - also on > > doohickey replacement. Take a look, and see if you can figure > > out the mysterious relationship between the > > rotor and rear brake. (Grinning) (You need a wrench.) > > http://klr6500.tripod.com/doohickey.htm > > > > A 1 1/4" wrench is the correct fit, or you can get the official > > wrench for > > the job from Arrowhead Motorsports or Sagebrush Machine Shop: > > > > (Arrowhead) > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html > > > > (Sagebrush) > > http://sagebrushmachine.netfirms.com/ > > > > Mark

[dooden]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

> On Mon, Oct 27, 2003 at 12:14:50PM -0700, Jim The Canoeist wrote: > > There is linkage between the crankshaft (read flywheel) and the

rear brake

> > through an engaged clutch, in-gear (higher gear more likely to not > > overpower), chain-to-rear wheel & brake. I don't think there

would be much

> > wrong with that method except that perhaps it won't work somehow

because of

> > all the torque needed to remove the bolt and apply the puller. Is the > > service manager wrong? If so, why? > > I'd be more concerned about applying the correct measured torque to

re-seat

> the rotor. Breaking the rotor free requires significantly less

effort, and

> there's no critical torque value involved.

"Breaking the rotor free requires significantly less effort " Huh ? I thought it was the other way around, 130 ft lbs is not that much torque, at least it sure did'nt seem like it to me, heck I broke it loose and redid it to check then set the wrench to 140 just to make sure I had to pull it harder. If I did'nt have the wrench when I did mine, I would have went and bought a crows foot attachment or made something to work. Dooden A15 Green Ape

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Mon, Oct 27, 2003 at 10:24:36PM -0000, Dooden wrote:

> > "Breaking the rotor free requires significantly less effort " > > Huh ? I thought it was the other way around, 130 ft lbs is not that > much torque, at least it sure did'nt seem like it to me, heck I broke > it loose and redid it to check then set the wrench to 140 just to make > sure I had to pull it harder.

Generally, I'm pretty sure that in the absence of corrosion, less torque is required to loosen than to tighten a fastener. The elastic properties of the bolt are helping you rather than working against you when you loosen the bolt. Certainly I've found it much easier to loosen than to tighten the rotor holder bolt each of the 4 times I've removed the rotor on my bike. 130, applied not-quite-square, was enough to break one of Zach's sockets the first time I did it...

> If I did'nt have the wrench when I did mine, I would have went and > bought a crows foot attachment or made something to work.

I thought of using a crow's foot. Mike strongly recommended against it because he said that it was really too much torque for a crow's foot, extension, and straight wrench. Someone on the list did bend a straight wrench with a welder to make it fit, which seemed pretty clever to me. I'd basically just worry that, given that what's ultimately holding everything from turning is the friction of the tire to the ground, and that the tire is definitely quite elastic, I couldn't trust a torque value I obtained with the rotor held static that way. On the other hand, it's how I tighten lug nuts on cars, and I've never had a problem... Thor