1st annual eastern sierra klrista rendezvous is a wrap

[klrjeffb]

I have been working with (and teaching) electromagnetics for awhile now, especially proximity sensors. I have found (at least in MN)that to get the biggest mass of metal over the loop, it works best to center the mass of your bike over the part of the loop that runs parallel to your direction of travel, thereby placing a larger mass along the sensor wire as opposed to across it. Since all sides of this loop are equally energized, it makes sense to place your bike over the greatest length of the loop you can. I have been doing this for a awhile now and there are only a couple of lights that will not trip. I have also been using this method when putting to the store on my 50cc Zuma scooter and it trips just about all of the lights as well. Try it! --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" wrote:

> The best way to trip the lights while on a bike, is to: > > 1. Be sure that you are in the center of the lane when approaching > the intersection so as to hit all of the loops right in the center, > catching both the bottom line and the top line of each and every > loop. (you of course will need to be more careful when doing this > because this is also where most of the oil/grease from the cagers

is

> too, ESPECIALLY FIRST RAIN) > > 2. Go slowly over the last one or two, and when you stop, put the > biggest mass of metal (your engine and frame) right over top of the > first or last line in the last loop, like the small line in the > letter Q, not in the middle of the loop where the tires and very > little metal will be over the wires. The closer the metal is to

the

> ground, the better, because you don't have the metal mass of a car. > > 3. If you wear steel toe or steel shank boots (like I do), when you > stop as described above, just put your toe or arch of your foot, on > one of the wires to the left or right of you. > > > Hope this helps you guys better understand how those things work,

and

> how to get them to work for you. I have had very little problems > with lights since working on them. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[Keith Saltzer]

I have thought of that, and tried it as well, but did not mention it because for one thing, as you mentioned, the loop is equally energized, and so you can "break" the field anywhere. The other thing is that in order to center the mass of your bike over the lines running parallel, you have to pay more attention to the ground to both see the line, and line up your bike with the line, and then do a balancing act on that line as you ride up to the intersection. It's just harder to do, and you risk missing the line and loop altogether if your not right on the tight rope line. You also cannot put a steel toe/shank boot down on the line, which gets metal right ontop of the wires, (works really well) because you are ontop of one of them, and the other is too far away to reach. Just somemore thoughts. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "klrjeffb" wrote: > I have been working with (and teaching) electromagnetics for awhile > now, especially proximity sensors. > > I have found (at least in MN)that to get the biggest mass of metal > over the loop, it works best to center the mass of your bike over the > part of the loop that runs parallel to your direction of travel, > thereby placing a larger mass along the sensor wire as opposed to > across it. > > Since all sides of this loop are equally energized, it makes sense to > place your bike over the greatest length of the loop you can. > > I have been doing this for a awhile now and there are only a couple > of lights that will not trip. > > I have also been using this method when putting to the store on my > 50cc Zuma scooter and it trips just about all of the lights as well. > > Try it! > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" > wrote: > > > > The best way to trip the lights while on a bike, is to: > > > > 1. Be sure that you are in the center of the lane when approaching > > the intersection so as to hit all of the loops right in the center, > > catching both the bottom line and the top line of each and every > > loop. (you of course will need to be more careful when doing this > > because this is also where most of the oil/grease from the cagers > is > > too, ESPECIALLY FIRST RAIN) > > > > 2. Go slowly over the last one or two, and when you stop, put the > > biggest mass of metal (your engine and frame) right over top of the > > first or last line in the last loop, like the small line in the > > letter Q, not in the middle of the loop where the tires and very > > little metal will be over the wires. The closer the metal is to > the > > ground, the better, because you don't have the metal mass of a car. > > > > 3. If you wear steel toe or steel shank boots (like I do), when you > > stop as described above, just put your toe or arch of your foot, on > > one of the wires to the left or right of you. > > > > > > Hope this helps you guys better understand how those things work, > and > > how to get them to work for you. I have had very little problems > > with lights since working on them. > > > > MrMoose > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[Alan L Henderson]

At 07:18 PM 9/17/2003 -0000, you wrote:

>I have thought of that, and tried it as well, but did not mention it >because for one thing, as you mentioned, the loop is equally >energized, and so you can "break" the field anywhere. The other >thing is that in order to center the mass of your bike over the lines >running parallel, you have to pay more attention to the ground to >both see the line, and line up your bike with the line, and then do a >balancing act on that line as you ride up to the intersection. It's >just harder to do, and you risk missing the line and loop altogether >if your not right on the tight rope line. > >You also cannot put a steel toe/shank boot down on the line, which >gets metal right ontop of the wires, (works really well) because you >are ontop of one of them, and the other is too far away to reach. > >Just somemore thoughts. > >MrMoose >A8 (Barbie and Ken special) >

Ok, now what do you do if the intersection your waiting at uses a microwave sensor or cameras used for sensing vehicles? Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[Keith Saltzer]

Well I don't know what you do, but I smile and wave at the camera, as I'm putting my pizza flavored Hot Pockets in the Microwave. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special) --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Alan L Henderson wrote:

> At 07:18 PM 9/17/2003 -0000, you wrote: > >I have thought of that, and tried it as well, but did not mention

it

> >because for one thing, as you mentioned, the loop is equally > >energized, and so you can "break" the field anywhere. The other > >thing is that in order to center the mass of your bike over the

lines

> >running parallel, you have to pay more attention to the ground to > >both see the line, and line up your bike with the line, and then

do a

> >balancing act on that line as you ride up to the intersection.

It's

> >just harder to do, and you risk missing the line and loop

altogether

> >if your not right on the tight rope line. > > > >You also cannot put a steel toe/shank boot down on the line, which > >gets metal right ontop of the wires, (works really well) because

you

> >are ontop of one of them, and the other is too far away to reach. > > > >Just somemore thoughts. > > > >MrMoose > >A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > Ok, now what do you do if the intersection your waiting at uses a

microwave

> sensor or cameras used for sensing vehicles? > Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2003-09-16 12:04:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time, mah78@... writes:

> > In the still of the night very early Sunday, long after the camp fire > burnded down to coals and after our epic dinner of NY steak, fried > onions, camp biscuts, cucumber and tomato salad and cold beer, > somewere between sleep and awake with the full moon overhead there was > the haunting sounds of three owls perched within our camp. Hearing > their calls in the still night, whooitt, hoo, hooo, hoooo one sounded > small another slightly larger and the one with the deep chesty hoooo > must have been large enough to carry off someones pet or even small > children. This was there home and were were just guests laying still, > tired dusty and happy. >

Based on the note of that studly whooitt hoo hoooooooo I think the big one could have picked a Ford Focus! I thought his hoot kinda had a 'I don't care if Elvis is in the building there is a new sheriff in town' tone to it. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]