bad noise was from new doohickey

[klr_a4]

Hi, I need to verify the function of a relay that is behaving intermittently. Buykawasaki.com was kinda vague, and I don't have my manuals on location. The Previous owner never performed the two safety switch bypasses. There is a relay with a 4 wires, a single red/blue wire, a black wire and two yellow/red wires , located to the left of the battery , behind the black cover . The four wires are encased in a white connector that is plugged into the bottom surface of the relay. It's encased in a rubber holder thingy, and hangs on a bracket. I had to remove the black cover over the side stand switch to get my hands on it. My guess is what we all know, but I need to verify this is the relay I think it is. It's been a few years since I have done this process. I would like to defeat the safety switches and wonder if this rework will fix my problem. Symptoms are , no voltage at the battery, 20mv or so, then everything mysteriously comes back to normal. I can hear the relay in question click when it fails. Right now the bike starts, but I want to fix it for good, before I button it back up. I'd like to relocate the main fuse, as there is barely enough room under the seat, but can't do that mod now. I have recently replaced the battery, but feel it's ok. Anybody have this problem before? Please reply to the whole list, as I am reading the messages on the webpage, I'm not recieving any mail. Thanks in advance Conall

[dumbazz650]

Thats the starter circuit relay. It's only there to keep the starter from engaging -inhibit function. Remove the starter circuit relay, and bypass it by inserting a short jumper into the relay socket between the Yellow/Red connection and the Black connection. Tape up very well with black electrical tape and reinsert into rubber relay holder. Bind it down with a zip tie or two. I made the jumper using three inches of 14g RED wire and two crimp on 1/4 inch male spade connectors. Easy to plug in, easy to reset back to stock. Note that the connector has two Yellow/Red connections -use either as these are electrically the same. Use the removed starter circuit relay as a spare for fan relay (both have same part#). The relay only serves an inhibit function -it prevents you from starting, unless .... Mark

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "klr_a4" wrote: > Hi, > > I need to verify the function of a relay that is behaving > intermittently. Buykawasaki.com was kinda vague, and I don't have my > manuals on location. > The Previous owner never performed the two safety switch bypasses. > There is a relay with a 4 wires, a single red/blue wire, a black wire > and two yellow/red wires , located to the left of the battery , > behind the black cover . The four wires are encased in a white > connector that is plugged into the bottom surface of the relay. It's > encased in a rubber holder thingy, and hangs on a bracket. I had to > remove the black cover over the side stand switch to get my hands on > it. > My guess is what we all know, but I need to verify this is the relay > I think it is. It's been a few years since I have done this process. > I would like to defeat the safety switches and wonder if this rework > will fix my problem. Symptoms are , no voltage at the battery, 20mv > or so, then everything mysteriously comes back to normal. I can hear > the relay in question click when it fails. Right now the bike starts, > but I want to fix it for good, before I button it back up. I'd like > to relocate the main fuse, as there is barely enough room under the > seat, but can't do that mod now. > I have recently replaced the battery, but feel it's ok. > Anybody have this problem before? Please reply to the whole list, as > I am reading the messages on the webpage, I'm not recieving any mail. > Thanks in advance > > Conall

[ridinghome@aol.com]

Finally got around to opening up the KLR to see what was causing the "Bad Noise" that had been getting louder. Top end was fine, valves hadn't changed much in the 1700 miles since the 500 mile adjustment, cam caps were tight, compression release ok. Opened up the side and went into the Doohickey, which is where I thought the sound was coming from anyway. Hmmm, everything looks ok, no loose or missing bits. I poke around a bit, and hello, what is this the Doohickey doesn't move at all! Pried it outward off the shaft a smidge and lo and behold the Doohickey will now move side to side and bring slack or tension to the balancer chain. I'd ordered a file-to-fit Doohickey, and opened it up only enough to drive it onto the shaft snugly. Seems I drove it a bit too deep and up against the "wall" behind it where it wouldn't rotate freely. I didn't notice it because I didn't verify correct operation before buttoning it up when I did the installation (actually I remember giving it an "extra" tap after I'd hooked up the spring and was ready to begin closing it up). So the balancer chain got lose enough to hear, and my "adjustments" were having no effect. Moral of the Story - Though it had a happy ending, be sure to check, recheck, and then check again that things are as they should be before you declare it's Miller Time and congratulate yourself on a job well done. Just glad it was my bike, and not someone's who I'd been assisting .. And be sure to ride to work Wednesday! Courtney in Dallas STOC 1052 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~` [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]