1998 klr650 for sale, dallas tx

[Guest]

Hey fellow Listers Just in the middle of my first Doohickey replacement on my A1 The old one hadn't yet reached the end of its rope, however for peace of mind after 16 years I decided it needed replacing. I was a little surprised to find it was different than many have described on the list [as being held together with a weld]. The original is machined to fit an held in place with a circlip My query is ----- 1. Is it OK to replace the original with one from Jake? The problem being that I cannot install the circlip. 2. Will the Doohickey stay in place without this clip?? 3. Is just using the adjuster bolt enough to hold it in place and keep it from coming of the shaft, or should I put the old one back on? 4. Are the doohickey's on the later model KLR's held in place with a clip or just with the adjusting bolt? Thanks for any help you can give me, Wayne A1 Nfld, Canada

[wannabsmooth1]

Wayne, The new lever goes on without the circlip, and is held by the bolt. That is also how the later models are. No problem. You have the earlier stamped one piece lever. No problem. Those don't break, but the slotted hole does oval out, and then does not properly tension the chain. Your idler shaft is also shorter. Unless you are willing to take apart your engine, and machine the cases, you will not be able to upgrade the idler sprocket, it's bearing, and install the longer idler shaft. If I were you, I would carefully check the counterbalance weights, and the pins and springs that drive them. They have been known to come apart, and send pieces through the engine. You would also lose the waterpump drive if this happens. You can upgrade to the later factory parts for about $100, US. These parts changed in '97, so that the counterweights had the drive splines built in. Mike Eagle Mfg & Eng San Diego, Ca.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "piker650" wrote: > Hey fellow Listers > Just in the middle of my first Doohickey replacement on my A1 The old > one hadn't yet reached the end of its rope, however for peace of mind > after 16 years I decided it needed replacing. I was a little > surprised to find it was different than many have described on the > list [as being held together with a weld]. The original is machined > to fit an held in place with a circlip > My query is ----- > 1. Is it OK to replace the original with one from Jake? The problem > being that I cannot install the circlip. > 2. Will the Doohickey stay in place without this clip?? > 3. Is just using the adjuster bolt enough to hold it in place and > keep it from coming of the shaft, or should I put the old one back on? > 4. Are the doohickey's on the later model KLR's held in place with a > clip or just with the adjusting bolt? > Thanks for any help you can give me, > Wayne A1 > Nfld, Canada

[jimr37663]

Early model KLRs like your A1 have stamped steel doohickey. According to Jake himself, they are not subject to fracture like the later model welded ones. When I called to order his replacement and he told me there's no advantage to be gained by replacing the stock unit on the models having the earlier design. Jim

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "piker650" wrote: > Hey fellow Listers > Just in the middle of my first Doohickey replacement on my A1 The old > one hadn't yet reached the end of its rope, however for peace of mind > after 16 years I decided it needed replacing. I was a little > surprised to find it was different than many have described on the > list [as being held together with a weld]. The original is machined > to fit an held in place with a circlip > My query is ----- > 1. Is it OK to replace the original with one from Jake? The problem > being that I cannot install the circlip. > 2. Will the Doohickey stay in place without this clip?? > 3. Is just using the adjuster bolt enough to hold it in place and > keep it from coming of the shaft, or should I put the old one back on? > 4. Are the doohickey's on the later model KLR's held in place with a > clip or just with the adjusting bolt? > Thanks for any help you can give me, > Wayne A1 > Nfld, Canada

[wannabsmooth1]

Jim, This is a case where I will disagree. The lever may not break, but the chain will not be properly tensioned, either. I've seen early levers crimped into the case, and around the bolt so much there is NO WAY they will adjust. Also, the double D slot for the shaft will oval out, and allow the shaft to rotate a great deal. This early lever is very soft, and thin. It was not heat treated after forming, and if you see the shape, you can tell it had the be soft to take that form. I've also hardness tested them. I agree that the lever is unlikely to fail catastrophically, but the odds are at least 50-50 that it is not tensioning the balancer chain. I've taken apart 3 of the early bikes with this lever, and not one would tension the chain. This is also due in part to the legendary Kawasaki spring quality. I'm not saying this because I make these parts - it's an objective observation. I've helped fit (without charge) a couple of levers that were not made by me, in the interest of helping the guy get his bike fixed. Mike Eagle Mfg & Eng San Diego, Ca.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "jimr37663" wrote: > Early model KLRs like your A1 have stamped steel doohickey. According > to Jake himself, they are not subject to fracture like the later > model welded ones. When I called to order his replacement and he told > me there's no advantage to be gained by replacing the stock unit on > the models having the earlier design. > > Jim > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "piker650" wrote: > > Hey fellow Listers > > Just in the middle of my first Doohickey replacement on my A1 The > old > > one hadn't yet reached the end of its rope, however for peace of > mind > > after 16 years I decided it needed replacing. I was a little > > surprised to find it was different than many have described on the > > list [as being held together with a weld]. The original is machined > > to fit an held in place with a circlip > > My query is ----- > > 1. Is it OK to replace the original with one from Jake? The problem > > being that I cannot install the circlip. > > 2. Will the Doohickey stay in place without this clip?? > > 3. Is just using the adjuster bolt enough to hold it in place and > > keep it from coming of the shaft, or should I put the old one back > on? > > 4. Are the doohickey's on the later model KLR's held in place with > a > > clip or just with the adjusting bolt? > > Thanks for any help you can give me, > > Wayne A1 > > Nfld, Canada

[Richard Knipe]

I bought the bike last year from a guy in alabama. Once I bought it, I went to work on it in anticipation of some serious miles. Things done to the bike: 1) new fork seals, bushings, sliders, gators 2) new sprokets, chain 3) new trailwing tires 4) total teardown of swingarm and lubricate 5) valves adjusted 6) new brake pads, new brake fluid 7) new battery 8) Installation of a Jake's balance shaft tensioner and tensioner spring (new engine gaskets used) Add-ons to the bike: 1) Cee Baileys windshield (+10) 2) Cee Baileys head light protector 3) Happy trails bash plate 4) Kawasaki tail bag Things that come with it: 1) K&N filter 2) stock bash plate 3) new front kobby 4) stock windshield 5) Owners manual and service guide 6) Jake's flywheel removal tool Two weeks ago, I bought a 1150GS thus I'm selling the KLR. Pictures of the klr can be found at http://home.texoma.net/~rknipe/goldwing/goldwing.html at the bottom of the page. The cosmetic shape of the bike is good (a few nicks, scratches) and the mechanicals are excellent. 14k miles. $2300 email rknipe@... or call 214-567-7623 Regards, Richard