wheel bearing follies

[Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed.]

The shims in Fred's kit worked for me. If you knew what you needed ahead of time you could order the exact part(s) you needed, but you don't. The best thing is you don't have to measure and wait with the engine half apart. Measure the clearances, lift the cams and pluck the shims to see what you've got, replace as necessary. Put it back together and you're done. Actually, in my case one shim I swapped around, but needed two from his kit. Highly recommended. Guy At 12:57 AM 4/29/03 -0000, mrmooseisloose wrote:

>Well I just called my friend and he is not even gonna put the key in >the ignition till we do the adjust. So I think I'm gonna put out the >money for the video (I know there is help online but I like videos) >and buy the feeler gauges and shim set. Is $63 for the shim set from >Arrowhead a decent price? I will let you all know just how bad they >are out of adjustment when I get them done. > >MrMoose >A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[Fred Hink]

Check the prices on ONE shim from Kawasaki and get back to me. Mine are $3.99 each. Jay D. has supplied me with both the VHS valve adjust video and the NEW DVD version. Too bad I don't have a DVD player. :-/ Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html

----- Original Message ----- From: "mrmooseisloose" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 6:57 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: A16-5000 miles-no valve adjust yet > Well I just called my friend and he is not even gonna put the key in > the ignition till we do the adjust. So I think I'm gonna put out the > money for the video (I know there is help online but I like videos) > and buy the feeler gauges and shim set. Is $63 for the shim set from > Arrowhead a decent price? I will let you all know just how bad they > are out of adjustment when I get them done. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[mrmooseisloose]

Yea, I guess thats what I'm going to do. I definitely want the set. I think that pulling it all apart and measuring and then having to stop, call in the order, and then wait for who knows how long, and do that every time you have to do the valves, is cruel and unusual punishment. Thanks for the recommendation. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special) --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed." wrote:

> The shims in Fred's kit worked for me. If you knew what you needed

ahead

> of time you could order the exact part(s) you needed, but you

don't. The

> best thing is you don't have to measure and wait with the engine

half

> apart. Measure the clearances, lift the cams and pluck the shims

to see

> what you've got, replace as necessary. Put it back together and

you're

> done. Actually, in my case one shim I swapped around, but needed

two from

> his kit. > > Highly recommended. > > Guy > > > At 12:57 AM 4/29/03 -0000, mrmooseisloose wrote: > > >Well I just called my friend and he is not even gonna put the key

in

> >the ignition till we do the adjust. So I think I'm gonna put out

the

> >money for the video (I know there is help online but I like

videos)

> >and buy the feeler gauges and shim set. Is $63 for the shim set

from

> >Arrowhead a decent price? I will let you all know just how bad

they

> >are out of adjustment when I get them done. > > > >MrMoose > >A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[zrod73026]

If you use Fred's kit to set the valves at the high or loose end of the tolerance, you probably won't have to do it for many, many miles. The valves, if not burnt, have sunken in the seats all they will for a long time, probably another 5000 or so. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mrmooseisloose" wrote:

> Yea, I guess thats what I'm going to do. I definitely want the

set.

> I think that pulling it all apart and measuring and then having to > stop, call in the order, and then wait for who knows how long, and

do

> that every time you have to do the valves, is cruel and unusual > punishment. Thanks for the recommendation. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Guy B. Young II - COG Tech.

Ed."

> wrote: > > The shims in Fred's kit worked for me. If you knew what you

needed

> ahead > > of time you could order the exact part(s) you needed, but you > don't. The > > best thing is you don't have to measure and wait with the engine > half > > apart. Measure the clearances, lift the cams and pluck the

shims

> to see > > what you've got, replace as necessary. Put it back together and > you're > > done. Actually, in my case one shim I swapped around, but

needed

> two from > > his kit. > > > > Highly recommended. > > > > Guy > > > > > > At 12:57 AM 4/29/03 -0000, mrmooseisloose wrote: > > > > >Well I just called my friend and he is not even gonna put the

key

> in > > >the ignition till we do the adjust. So I think I'm gonna put

out

> the > > >money for the video (I know there is help online but I like > videos) > > >and buy the feeler gauges and shim set. Is $63 for the shim set > from > > >Arrowhead a decent price? I will let you all know just how bad > they > > >are out of adjustment when I get them done. > > > > > >MrMoose > > >A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[mrmooseisloose]

Thanks for that info. That was my next question. (How long till next adjustment if I set them on the high end) I have another one though. While looking at Marks pages it says that "when removing the used shim they can be reused, generally" It does not explain "generally". What do I look for to tell if it can or can't be reused. The cam is rubbing on it right? Are the shims made of harder metal than the cams? Also how can I tell if the valves are burnt or if the seats got damaged. Anything that I can do to tell how things are doing while I'm in there would be a plus. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "zrod73026" wrote: > If you use Fred's kit to set the valves at the high or loose end of > the tolerance, you probably won't have to do it for many, many miles. > The valves, if not burnt, have sunken in the seats all they will for > a long time, probably another 5000 or so. > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mrmooseisloose" > wrote: > > Yea, I guess thats what I'm going to do. I definitely want the > set. > > I think that pulling it all apart and measuring and then having to > > stop, call in the order, and then wait for who knows how long, and > do > > that every time you have to do the valves, is cruel and unusual > > punishment. Thanks for the recommendation. > > > > MrMoose > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. > Ed." > > wrote: > > > The shims in Fred's kit worked for me. If you knew what you > needed > > ahead > > > of time you could order the exact part(s) you needed, but you > > don't. The > > > best thing is you don't have to measure and wait with the engine > > half > > > apart. Measure the clearances, lift the cams and pluck the > shims > > to see > > > what you've got, replace as necessary. Put it back together and > > you're > > > done. Actually, in my case one shim I swapped around, but > needed > > two from > > > his kit. > > > > > > Highly recommended. > > > > > > Guy > > > > > > > > > At 12:57 AM 4/29/03 -0000, mrmooseisloose wrote: > > > > > > >Well I just called my friend and he is not even gonna put the > key > > in > > > >the ignition till we do the adjust. So I think I'm gonna put > out > > the > > > >money for the video (I know there is help online but I like > > videos) > > > >and buy the feeler gauges and shim set. Is $63 for the shim set > > from > > > >Arrowhead a decent price? I will let you all know just how bad > > they > > > >are out of adjustment when I get them done. > > > > > > > >MrMoose > > > >A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> though. While looking at Marks pages it says that "when removing the > used shim they can be reused, generally" It does not > explain "generally".

I should have been more specific. By "generally," I meant as long as the shims weren't previously installed wrong, with the number stamp facing up. If they WERE, there probably aren't numbers any more, and you're in for some hassle which you'd want to avoid again in the future by tossing it / them out. (You could measure the shim(s) with a micrometer, but I don't know how you'd mark them - engraving tool? I don't know, *I* wouldn't bother.) I assume that a number stamp UP installation wouldn't be the case with factory-installed shims, but you know what they say about assuming anything. *I* can't think of any other reason why the shim couldn't be reused, so you should almost certainly be able to reuse them again. You almost as certainly won't be using them again THIS time, I'd bet you're going to need to gain a significant amount of clearance... Best of luck, Mark KLR650 Motorcycle Pages: http://klr6500.tripod.com/ HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html My Adelphia Email can be "iffy." If you don't get a response, please try: KLR6500@...

[zrod73026]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mrmooseisloose" wrote:

> Thanks for that info. That was my next question. (How long till

next

> adjustment if I set them on the high end) I have another one > though. While looking at Marks pages it says that "when removing

the

> used shim they can be reused, generally" It does not > explain "generally". What do I look for to tell if it can or can't > be reused. The cam is rubbing on it right? Are the shims made of > harder metal than the cams?

If the motor hasn't been run without oil the shims should be fine and you won't see any visable wear. I think most dealers use shims out of a bucket of used ones when they do a valve adjustment, that is if they really do it. Also how can I tell if the valves are

> burnt or if the seats got damaged.

Is it a backfiring dog yet? If you measure any clearance at all, you are probably ok. I fainted when my smallest feeler .005, wouldn't slide in one of mine and when I came to I took a Post-it off the pad and it slid in, whew! I realized that I needed a set of feelers that go down to about .002. You may have to ask yourself, (Do I feel lucky?) Anything that I can do to tell

> how things are doing while I'm in there would be a plus. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "zrod73026" wrote: > > If you use Fred's kit to set the valves at the high or loose end

of

> > the tolerance, you probably won't have to do it for many, many > miles. > > The valves, if not burnt, have sunken in the seats all they will > for > > a long time, probably another 5000 or so. > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mrmooseisloose"

> > wrote: > > > Yea, I guess thats what I'm going to do. I definitely want the > > set. > > > I think that pulling it all apart and measuring and then having > to > > > stop, call in the order, and then wait for who knows how long, > and > > do > > > that every time you have to do the valves, is cruel and unusual > > > punishment. Thanks for the recommendation. > > > > > > MrMoose > > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. > > Ed." > > > wrote: > > > > The shims in Fred's kit worked for me. If you knew what you > > needed > > > ahead > > > > of time you could order the exact part(s) you needed, but you > > > don't. The > > > > best thing is you don't have to measure and wait with the > engine > > > half > > > > apart. Measure the clearances, lift the cams and pluck the > > shims > > > to see > > > > what you've got, replace as necessary. Put it back together > and > > > you're > > > > done. Actually, in my case one shim I swapped around, but > > needed > > > two from > > > > his kit. > > > > > > > > Highly recommended. > > > > > > > > Guy > > > > > > > > > > > > At 12:57 AM 4/29/03 -0000, mrmooseisloose wrote: > > > > > > > > >Well I just called my friend and he is not even gonna put

the

> > key > > > in > > > > >the ignition till we do the adjust. So I think I'm gonna

put

> > out > > > the > > > > >money for the video (I know there is help online but I like > > > videos) > > > > >and buy the feeler gauges and shim set. Is $63 for the shim > set > > > from > > > > >Arrowhead a decent price? I will let you all know just how > bad > > > they > > > > >are out of adjustment when I get them done. > > > > > > > > > >MrMoose > > > > >A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[Devon Jarvis]

> --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "zrod73026" wrote: > > If you use Fred's kit to set the valves at the high or loose end of > > the tolerance, you probably won't have to do it for many, many > miles. > > The valves, if not burnt, have sunken in the seats all they will > for > > a long time, probably another 5000 or so.

At LEAST 5000. I set my valves at 750mi, to the outside of spec. At 6,000mi they had closed up a thousandth or two each. At 16,000 they had opened back up slightly, but all were still inside the spec. I'm checking them again at 26,000. Devon A15

[mrmooseisloose]

Thanks everyone! I think I have covered everything now and your information has givin me all the details I need to do this thing. It's not that I haven't done valve jobs before, I have done them on most of my bikes. I just haven't done them on the KLR yet and have never done shim types. Its time for me to shut up and get to work. I'm going to get a nice set of feeler gauges right now and start tearing down to see what we've got. Thanks again. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "zrod73026" wrote: > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mrmooseisloose" > wrote: > > Thanks for that info. That was my next question. (How long till > next > > adjustment if I set them on the high end) I have another one > > though. While looking at Marks pages it says that "when removing > the > > used shim they can be reused, generally" It does not > > explain "generally". What do I look for to tell if it can or can't > > be reused. The cam is rubbing on it right? Are the shims made of > > harder metal than the cams? > > > > If the motor hasn't been run without oil the shims should be fine and > you won't see any visable wear. > I think most dealers use shims out of a bucket of used ones when they > do a valve adjustment, that is if they really do it. > > > Also how can I tell if the valves are > > burnt or if the seats got damaged. > > > Is it a backfiring dog yet? > If you measure any clearance at all, you are probably ok. > I fainted when my smallest feeler .005, wouldn't slide in one of mine > and when I came to I took a Post-it off the pad and it slid in, whew! > I realized that I needed a set of feelers that go down to about .002. > You may have to ask yourself, (Do I feel lucky?) > > > > Anything that I can do to tell > > how things are doing while I'm in there would be a plus. > > > > MrMoose > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "zrod73026" wrote: > > > If you use Fred's kit to set the valves at the high or loose end > of > > > the tolerance, you probably won't have to do it for many, many > > miles. > > > The valves, if not burnt, have sunken in the seats all they will > > for > > > a long time, probably another 5000 or so. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mrmooseisloose" > > > > wrote: > > > > Yea, I guess thats what I'm going to do. I definitely want the > > > set. > > > > I think that pulling it all apart and measuring and then having > > to > > > > stop, call in the order, and then wait for who knows how long, > > and > > > do > > > > that every time you have to do the valves, is cruel and unusual > > > > punishment. Thanks for the recommendation. > > > > > > > > MrMoose > > > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. > > > Ed." > > > > wrote: > > > > > The shims in Fred's kit worked for me. If you knew what you > > > needed > > > > ahead > > > > > of time you could order the exact part(s) you needed, but you > > > > don't. The > > > > > best thing is you don't have to measure and wait with the > > engine > > > > half > > > > > apart. Measure the clearances, lift the cams and pluck the > > > shims > > > > to see > > > > > what you've got, replace as necessary. Put it back together > > and > > > > you're > > > > > done. Actually, in my case one shim I swapped around, but > > > needed > > > > two from > > > > > his kit. > > > > > > > > > > Highly recommended. > > > > > > > > > > Guy > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > At 12:57 AM 4/29/03 -0000, mrmooseisloose wrote: > > > > > > > > > > >Well I just called my friend and he is not even gonna put > the > > > key > > > > in > > > > > >the ignition till we do the adjust. So I think I'm gonna > put > > > out > > > > the > > > > > >money for the video (I know there is help online but I like > > > > videos) > > > > > >and buy the feeler gauges and shim set. Is $63 for the shim > > set > > > > from > > > > > >Arrowhead a decent price? I will let you all know just how > > bad > > > > they > > > > > >are out of adjustment when I get them done. > > > > > > > > > > > >MrMoose > > > > > >A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[The Mule]

Let us know what you find when you get in there Mr. Moose, ung-Kai? This could be very educational, class......... The Mule ----- Original Message ----- From: "mrmooseisloose" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 11:28 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: A16-5000 miles-no valve adjust yet > Thanks everyone! I think I have covered everything now and your > information has givin me all the details I need to do this thing. > It's not that I haven't done valve jobs before, I have done them on > most of my bikes. I just haven't done them on the KLR yet and have > never done shim types. Its time for me to shut up and get to work. > I'm going to get a nice set of feeler gauges right now and start > tearing down to see what we've got. Thanks again. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > >