more fork'n round

[kusst]

I am a home grown Minnesotan, and have about 500 miles on the A16 already this year. I broke down and installed "hotgrips" this year and have only good things to say about the product and its' performance on the klr. I found an older version on Ebay for cheap so I couldn't psss it up, and it it still available on the Hotgrips website. I think the heat output is not what the newer versions are, but on high it is more than plenty IMHO. I thought the newer versions were a bit pricey, but as I said the older version is still available (I think) and it costs less. see hotgrips.com I am not a big time wrencher, but I can build a hell of a deer stand given some lumber and deck screws and I manage an electro-mechanical project now and then on the klr or on the sleds. If you have a soldering iron, you are more than equiped to tackle the installation of hotgrips. The two wires behaind the fairing for the european running lights work just fine for a power source, and the wiring diagram was pretty dirt simple, even I could do it. Perhaps the biggest challenge was removing the oem grips. But even that went ok with a few tools. there are probably posts still on the list regarding this, you may try searching. If you want more guidance or info feel free to email me. Todd Chaska MN A16 02ZR800EFI tkuss@...

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> A spark plug wrench from some old unidentified motorcycle tool kit > I had laying around made a perfect damper rod holder.

Replying to my own post... is that like talking to myself? Anyhoo, just for future reference, a damper rod holder for a KLR 250 ('91 in this case, probably all the same) can be made out of a 22mm nut welded on the end of a metal rod, or as in my case, a hokey old spark plug wrench (stamped steel) with a 22mm OD, a socket on the other end, some duct tape to keep it in place, and a long extension. The key piece of info here is that the top of the damper rod on a '91 KLR 250 requires a 22mm 'tool' to hold it (for those unfamiliar with what I'm talking about, picture a 22mm socket facing up as the top of the damper rod). Thought that might be helpful for someone down the line. Craig