New tire on wheel and back on bike, smooth. Nothing like new rubber.
Question regarding chain tension. Manual says 2.0 - 2.4 inches of
slack while on side stand, is that including the width of the chain?
It appears in the photo that this measurment is from the chain bottom
(while pushed down, to the chain top when pushed up. This would
include the width of the chain, but that seems odd if so. The chain
tightens up a lot when my 200# self is on board but there is some
slack under tension but not much. With only the recommended 1/2 an
inch of leeway in the adjustment tolerance its makes a difference and
I do not want to run it too tight and loose a seal or bearing. How do
you folks determine this adjustment? Thanks.
--Jim
rev's between shifts
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- Posts: 2322
- Joined: Thu May 10, 2001 9:41 am
chain too tight?
Put the bike on the sidestand and make sure the rear suspension is topped. On the bottom run of the chain, push up on the chain
at the spot below the end of the rubber slider underneath the swingarm (about the middle of the run). With a fair bit of thumb
pressure, you should be able to get the chain closer than 1/8" to the end of the slider, just touching is OK too.
This is my method. It's worked for 17,000mi of thrashing and no chain problems so far. Knock on wood.
Devon
A15
Jim wrote:
> New tire on wheel and back on bike, smooth. Nothing like new rubber. > Question regarding chain tension. Manual says 2.0 - 2.4 inches of > slack while on side stand, is that including the width of the chain? > It appears in the photo that this measurment is from the chain bottom > (while pushed down, to the chain top when pushed up. This would > include the width of the chain, but that seems odd if so. The chain > tightens up a lot when my 200# self is on board but there is some > slack under tension but not much. With only the recommended 1/2 an > inch of leeway in the adjustment tolerance its makes a difference and > I do not want to run it too tight and loose a seal or bearing. How do > you folks determine this adjustment? Thanks. > > --Jim
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2002 10:27 am
rev's between shifts
Had a similar problem with my A1 which sat for
a few years before I got it...
In my case, the whole carb was seriously shellacked (sp?)
and there was much black goo clogging up virtually every port.
In particular the Idle jets and air pre-mix jets were clogged,
which required the idle (butterfly) to be opened more to
sustain an idle, and since it couldn't close between shifts,
the engine would surge and take an eternity for the slider
to drop. (the slider was also sticking a bit due to the shellac
and also a slight mfg defect/bur.
I spent an ungodly amount of time soaking, polishing and pushing
tiny gauge copper wires through the ports/jets to get it all cleared
out but it runs perfectly now.
Of course, as others have pointed out, check for any obvious
externals first...
This DSN link is useful for the carb stuff.
http://dualsportnews.com/klr/CVK40.htm
Let us know what you find out...
Scottez
OH
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