any 250 owners out there?

[greenmachine_a13]

Looking for an economical way to improve the front suspension. I know replacing the fork springs is the right way to do it, but can't do expense right now. As anyone found the right setup in oil weight, oil level or adding spacers that will improve the stock front suspension? Currently it seems OK on the street, but when I take it on the trail the front end bottoms out occasionally with my 190lbs bod & gear. Also the factory manual calls out for SAE 10W20 (motor oil?) set to 190mm with the forks fully compressed. Should I first try going to a 10W30 motor oil or go with one of those pricey fork oils that is only available in a single weight? Mark a13

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> Also the factory manual calls out for SAE 10W20 (motor oil?) set to > 190mm with the forks fully compressed. Should I first try going to a > 10W30 motor oil or go with one of those pricey fork oils that is only > available in a single weight?

*I* would suggest that you NOT use motor oil, save your money somewhere else! I replaced my fork oil with PJ1 15 weight, and found it had made the front suspension stiffer than it was with the stock oil. I think Just experiment with the weight to see what works best for you... I've got a fork oil change procedure at: http://klr6500.tripod.com/forkoil.htm if that helps any, Mark Glitter is coined to meet the moment's rage; Genuine lives on from age to age. - Goethe's "Faust" KLR650 Motorcycle Pages: http://klr6500.tripod.com/ HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html My Adelphia Email can be "iffy." If you don't get a response, please try: KLR6500@...

[david gay]

DO NOT USE MOTOR OIL. Go to 20w fork oil, and you should notice a significant difference, at least until you can afford new spring. Also install spaces to preload the fork, and get the recommeded sag within specs, or use air pressure for the same reason since they are air forks. But use a low pressure pump, the seals can be easily blown with too high a pressure. Also check smaller shop, some sell fork a lot cheaper. Hope this helps, Dave greenmachine_a13 wrote:Looking for an economical way to improve the front suspension. I know replacing the fork springs is the right way to do it, but can't do expense right now. As anyone found the right setup in oil weight, oil level or adding spacers that will improve the stock front suspension? Currently it seems OK on the street, but when I take it on the trail the front end bottoms out occasionally with my 190lbs bod & gear. Also the factory manual calls out for SAE 10W20 (motor oil?) set to 190mm with the forks fully compressed. Should I first try going to a 10W30 motor oil or go with one of those pricey fork oils that is only available in a single weight? Mark a13 List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more faith.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Zachariah Mully]

On Sun, 6 Oct 2002, greenmachine_a13 wrote:

> Looking for an economical way to improve the front suspension. I know > replacing the fork springs is the right way to do it, but can't do > expense right now. As anyone found the right setup in oil weight, oil > level or adding spacers that will improve the stock front suspension? > Currently it seems OK on the street, but when I take it on the trail > the front end bottoms out occasionally with my 190lbs bod & gear.

More preload (cut new spacers from sch40 PVC), and heavier oil are the only two things you have control over.

> > Also the factory manual calls out for SAE 10W20 (motor oil?) set to > 190mm with the forks fully compressed. Should I first try going to a > 10W30 motor oil or go with one of those pricey fork oils that is only > available in a single weight?

Funny you should mention this, I torn down the front end on my Concours today, and drained the oil from them before I remembered that I had no fork oil and being Sunday, that I wasn't going to get any. Big K specs the same for the Concours (SAE 10W20), so I figured WTF? and I dumped in 10W30 motor oil. Works great, a bit heavier, but then again I was bottoming out on the potholes in the city, so that's all good. You could try ATF, but ATF isn't spec'ed by weight, so I am sure that it differs between brands and formulas, but I think it's around 7.5 (which is probably lighter than you want it).

> > Mark > a13

Z DC A2 (for parts) A5 (in pieces) A11 (on it's way!!!)

[Lawrence Risley]

Hey Mark, I had a quick look at the manual regarding fork oil, then looked at your website for comparison. Why do you recommend removing the caliper, wheel and forks from the bike? I had pretty good results following the manual, seems a lot easier. When you list the folks that contributed to your procedure, you credit Bogdan, Devon, Mr. T, Fred, RM and Ted Palmer. Given that these folks have forgotten more about KLRs than I will ever know, I have to ask myself this question, What am I missing here? Alohas, Larry

> Also the factory manual calls out for SAE 10W20 (motor oil?) set to > 190mm with the forks fully compressed. Should I first try going to a > 10W30 motor oil or go with one of those pricey fork oils that is only > available in a single weight?

*I* would suggest that you NOT use motor oil, save your money somewhere else! I replaced my fork oil with PJ1 15 weight, and found it had made the front suspension stiffer than it was with the stock oil. I think Just experiment with the weight to see what works best for you... I've got a fork oil change procedure at: http://klr6500.tripod.com/forkoil.htm if that helps any, Mark [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> Hey Mark, I had a quick look at the manual regarding fork oil, then looked > at your website for comparison. Why do you recommend removing the

caliper,

> wheel and forks from the bike? I had pretty good results following the

manual,

> seems a lot easier. When you list the folks that contributed to your

procedure,

> you credit Bogdan, Devon, Mr. T, Fred, RM and Ted Palmer. Given that these > folks have forgotten more about KLRs than I will ever know, I have to ask

myself

> this question, What am I missing here? > > I've got a fork oil change procedure at: > http://klr6500.tripod.com/forkoil.htm if that helps any

You're not really missing anything - (I assume you going by the manual's procedure of using the fork oil drain bolts near the bottom of the tubes?) I admit to being a bit of an anal retentive, and I just didn't see how using those drain holes could possibly do a thorough job of getting out all the old oil. In a nutshell, my suggestion is to pull the tubes off the bike, dump the oil, flush with clean oil a couple times, and turn them upside down overnight to completely drain. If you can live with just unscrewing the drain bolts, that's fine, but like many listers, I found a fair amount of sludge in there that I doubt would have come through the drain holes... Mark Glitter is coined to meet the moment's rage; Genuine lives on from age to age. - Goethe's "Faust" KLR650 Motorcycle Pages: http://klr6500.tripod.com/ HomePage: http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/index.html My Adelphia Email can be "iffy." If you don't get a response, please try: KLR6500@...

[Lawrence Risley]

You're not really missing anything - (I assume you going by the manual's procedure of using the fork oil drain bolts near the bottom of the tubes?) I admit to being a bit of an anal retentive, and I just didn't see how using those drain holes could possibly do a thorough job of getting out all the old oil. In a nutshell, my suggestion is to pull the tubes off the bike, dump the oil, flush with clean oil a couple times, and turn them upside down overnight to completely drain. If you can live with just unscrewing the drain bolts, that's fine, but like many listers, I found a fair amount of sludge in there that I doubt would have come through the drain holes... Mark Mark The internals of a fork are a mystery to me. If the sludge buildup is resting quietly, I will let it be. If the sludge is pumping through, and wearing out, some damping gizmos I will find the time to properly drain it. I was planning on waiting for a seal or a boot to wear out before draining the fork, but... Do the old farts think it is a good idea to drain them out every so often? Alohas, Larry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

I'm kinda a old fart, and after a year still have the OEM Fish Oil in my forks. Reckon if you got the time,energy & resources to pull them apart. Go for it, it wont hurt them, unless you drop a tube or nick it. I know on anything I change oil on, I always search out a 1/2 qt leftover from something and pour it in with the drain plug out, to flush top to bottom and out into pan. Is that "anal retentive" ? Of course some folk lube there chain everyday too, I managed to use a hose and wash off most of the mud off mine the other day, might even hit it with some WD40 one of these days. Will my chain last as long as others, kinda doubt it. Heck my bike needs a oil change, anybody want to come over and change that for me ? Dooden

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Lawrence Risley" wrote: > > > > You're not really missing anything - (I assume you going by the manual's > procedure of using the fork oil drain bolts near the bottom of the tubes?) > > I admit to being a bit of an anal retentive, and I just didn't see how using > those drain holes could possibly do a thorough job of getting out all the > old oil. In a nutshell, my suggestion is to pull the tubes off the bike, > dump the oil, flush with clean oil a couple times, and turn them upside down > overnight to completely drain. If you can live with just unscrewing the > drain bolts, that's fine, but like many listers, I found a fair amount of > sludge in there that I doubt would have come through the drain holes... > > Mark > > Mark > The internals of a fork are a mystery to me. If the sludge buildup is resting quietly, I will let it be. If the sludge is pumping through, and wearing out, some damping gizmos I will find the time to properly drain it. I was planning on waiting for a seal or a boot to wear out before draining the fork, but... Do the old farts think it is a good idea to drain them out every so often? > Alohas, Larry > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[david gay]

Your sure getting lazy dooden. Get off yu massive butt and change your oil. Dave dooden wrote:I'm kinda a old fart, and after a year still have the OEM Fish Oil in my forks. Reckon if you got the time,energy & resources to pull them apart. Go for it, it wont hurt them, unless you drop a tube or nick it. I know on anything I change oil on, I always search out a 1/2 qt leftover from something and pour it in with the drain plug out, to flush top to bottom and out into pan. Is that "anal retentive" ? Of course some folk lube there chain everyday too, I managed to use a hose and wash off most of the mud off mine the other day, might even hit it with some WD40 one of these days. Will my chain last as long as others, kinda doubt it. Heck my bike needs a oil change, anybody want to come over and change that for me ? Dooden

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Lawrence Risley" wrote: > > > > You're not really missing anything - (I assume you going by the manual's > procedure of using the fork oil drain bolts near the bottom of the tubes?) > > I admit to being a bit of an anal retentive, and I just didn't see how using > those drain holes could possibly do a thorough job of getting out all the > old oil. In a nutshell, my suggestion is to pull the tubes off the bike, > dump the oil, flush with clean oil a couple times, and turn them upside down > overnight to completely drain. If you can live with just unscrewing the > drain bolts, that's fine, but like many listers, I found a fair amount of > sludge in there that I doubt would have come through the drain holes... > > Mark > > Mark > The internals of a fork are a mystery to me. If the sludge buildup is resting quietly, I will let it be. If the sludge is pumping through, and wearing out, some damping gizmos I will find the time to properly drain it. I was planning on waiting for a seal or a boot to wear out before draining the fork, but... Do the old farts think it is a good idea to drain them out every so often? > Alohas, Larry > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more faith.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RM]

On Mon, 7 Oct 2002, Zachariah Mully wrote:

>on the potholes in the city, so that's all good. You could try ATF, but >ATF isn't spec'ed by weight, so I am sure that it differs between brands >and formulas, but I think it's around 7.5 (which is probably lighter than >you want it).

Dunno about type-F, but Dexron III has a kinematic viscosity of about 35 cSt @ 40C, which puts it right in with the 10w fork oils. I plan to try it next time I do my forks. Just fer the halibut. RM