I've got the fever to try the dual-sport bikes, but none of the Dallas
area dealers has a KLR650 in stock. I'd read so much about the KLR on
the internet, I had to see one, so I struck up a conversation with a
total stranger just so I could see how KLR650 would fit me. I'm 6'1' -
190, and although it was a little hard to get my leg over, the
suspension sank a couple of inches as I sat down and my feet were flat
on the ground while my knees were slightly bent. It felt lighter than
any bike I'd been on except for my old Honda 150.
I've never been on a real dirt bike, and I'm looking for a 99% urban
commuter street bike with the occasional dirt/gravel road, stream
crossing, and/or cow pasture
The local BWM dealer has an immaculate '95 R100GS with bags. 55k miles.
Asking $5k. Strangely enough, the blue book for that model is even less
than $5k.
I test drove the GS for 15 minutes on broad, low-traffic streets. This
is a big, powerful bike. Seems even taller than the KLR.
Which would you rather have for about the same money: a new KLR650 or a
like-new R100GS?
Thanks,
Artie
so now where? (was: where to put the number plate ?)
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- Posts: 25
- Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2002 7:48 pm
new klr650 vs used r100gs : which would you choose?
Artie,
I have both. A '92 R100GS and a KLR650 A9. I have to say they are
both great bikes. They each have their place. The BMW is MUCH
heavier, about 200lbs I believe. It also has more raw power 67bhp
stock. I find the BMW more comfortable on long rides (200 miles +)
and it has a better feel in the twisties (paved). The KLR is a much
better bike as a shorter distance commuter and definitely better when
the pavement ends. I have a 35 mile one way commute to work and 10
miles of that is on dirt/gravel. I find myself making that ride more
on the KLR than the BMW. I have done long distances on both bikes
(1000 + miles per trip) and they are both wonderful. The KLR is
definitely more dirt oriented and handles better off pavement than
the BMW. The BMW has slightly, but only slightly, better gearing for
the highway.
The BMW is somewhat more expensive to maintain mostly because of
parts costs, but if you treat it right the boxer twin is bullet
proof. It is common to get 100,000 + miles out of those engines. I
have a friend with a '91 that has 79,000 miles on his with only
regular maintenance and a new set of pushrod seals.
It really is going to come down to how you will be riding. I think
you will be happy with either bike. Something to note, both bikes
suffer from weak charging systems. This means you are limited in
accessories you can run, such as aux lights, heated clothing etc.
They both also suffer from soft suspensions. I would highly
recommend the Progressive upgrade to the front suspension and a rear
upgrade might benefit you as well. The front can be done for under
$100 and is well worth it. I have done both my bikes. The rear is
more expensive, but worth considering after you have ridden the bike
for a while.
If you are truly going to be 99% street and plan on any distances I
would go with the BMW. If you plan on mostly short (under 200 or so
miles) trips and there is the possibility of anything more rugged
than a gravel road in your plans I would get the KLR.
In my opinion, you really can't go wrong with either one.
BTW, I am 6' and 175lbs.
Dave
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Artie Turner wrote: > I've got the fever to try the dual-sport bikes, but none of the Dallas > area dealers has a KLR650 in stock. I'd read so much about the KLR on > the internet, I had to see one, so I struck up a conversation with a > total stranger just so I could see how KLR650 would fit me. I'm 6'1' - > 190, and although it was a little hard to get my leg over, the > suspension sank a couple of inches as I sat down and my feet were flat > on the ground while my knees were slightly bent. It felt lighter than > any bike I'd been on except for my old Honda 150. > > I've never been on a real dirt bike, and I'm looking for a 99% urban > commuter street bike with the occasional dirt/gravel road, stream > crossing, and/or cow pasture > > The local BWM dealer has an immaculate '95 R100GS with bags. 55k miles. > Asking $5k. Strangely enough, the blue book for that model is even less > than $5k. > > I test drove the GS for 15 minutes on broad, low-traffic streets. This > is a big, powerful bike. Seems even taller than the KLR. > > Which would you rather have for about the same money: a new KLR650 or a > like-new R100GS? > > Thanks, > > Artie
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- Posts: 236
- Joined: Fri May 12, 2000 10:41 am
new klr650 vs used r100gs : which would you choose?
Artie, you'll get numerous opinions just based on New vs. Used anything. Personally, for the same money, I prefer the new KLR, which is under warranty for at least a year, aftermarket parts are readily available, parts are readily available, parts are far less expensive,and service is nowhere near as expensive for a Kawi as it would be for the BMW.
My .02..
Paul
A13
Frisco, Tx
Artie Turner wrote:
>The local BWM dealer has an immaculate '95 R100GS with bags. 55k miles. >Asking $5k. Strangely enough, the blue book for that model is even less >than $5k. > >I test drove the GS for 15 minutes on broad, low-traffic streets. This >is a big, powerful bike. Seems even taller than the KLR. > >Which would you rather have for about the same money: a new KLR650 or a >like-new R100GS? > >Thanks, > >Artie >
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- Posts: 102
- Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2002 5:15 pm
new klr650 vs used r100gs : which would you choose?
I agree the KLR will be much cheaper in the long run.
Trev
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., PRBKLR@c... wrote: > Artie, you'll get numerous opinions just based on New vs. Used anything. Personally, for the same money, I prefer the new KLR, which is under warranty for at least a year, aftermarket parts are readily available, parts are readily available, parts are far less expensive,and service is nowhere near as expensive for a Kawi as it would be for the BMW. > > My .02.. > > Paul > A13 > Frisco, Tx > > Artie Turner wrote: > > >The local BWM dealer has an immaculate '95 R100GS with bags. 55k miles. > >Asking $5k. Strangely enough, the blue book for that model is even less > >than $5k. > > > >I test drove the GS for 15 minutes on broad, low-traffic streets. This > >is a big, powerful bike. Seems even taller than the KLR. > > > >Which would you rather have for about the same money: a new KLR650 or a > >like-new R100GS? > > > >Thanks, > > > >Artie > >
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- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Dec 14, 2000 9:12 pm
new klr650 vs used r100gs : which would you choose?
Artie,
One other bike you might look at is the Cagiva Gran Canyon. I'm looking to
buy one soon myself. For the type and speed of riding I like to do I'm
finding the KLR just a bit lacking. I really like my '98 KLR, great for
around town and the occaisional squirt down gravel roads and such, but out
on the highway if I encounter winds that are not directly in front or
behind me I'm tending to get blown around a bit. But maintenance wise,
availability of parts and accessories, general knowledge (like this list)
the KLR is great. When on the hiway I tend to ride in the 70+ mph range,
YMMV at a more sedate speed.
A downside to the Cagiva is the lack of dealer support, Cagiva was bought
out my Piaggio and is in a bit of a turmoil right now. The upside is the
motor is a Ducati 900cc so parts and knowledge availability for it is quite
plentiful. I believe there are a couple of 'New' '99 and '00 Gran Canyons
up in the Dallas area ( I live in Austin so I have been looking there as
well). Pricing is around the $6500 to $7000 range for the 'New' bikes. But
that is getting you a bigger, more powerful fuel injected motor and
typically hard luggage as well.
Don't get me wrong, I have nothing but praise for the KLR and my highway
riding style is a bit out of the intent for the KLR.
If you are going to be putting a lot of miles on at higher hiway speeds, or
doing a lot of longer distance touring (on the road) I would look at the
big trailies like the Beemer, the Cagiva and possibly the Triumph Tiger.
For anything else you are going to be hard pressed to beat the KLR.
Just a little something to throw into the mix and only my $.02 worth.
good luck on your decision,
woode
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 08:14:43 -0500
From: Artie Turner
Subject: New KLR650 vs used R100GS : which would you choose?
I've got the fever to try the dual-sport bikes, but none of the Dallas
area dealers has a KLR650 in stock. I'd read so much about the KLR on
the internet, I had to see one, so I struck up a conversation with a
total stranger just so I could see how KLR650 would fit me. I'm 6'1' -
190, and although it was a little hard to get my leg over, the
suspension sank a couple of inches as I sat down and my feet were flat
on the ground while my knees were slightly bent. It felt lighter than
any bike I'd been on except for my old Honda 150.
I've never been on a real dirt bike, and I'm looking for a 99% urban
commuter street bike with the occasional dirt/gravel road, stream
crossing, and/or cow pasture
The local BWM dealer has an immaculate '95 R100GS with bags. 55k miles.
Asking $5k. Strangely enough, the blue book for that model is even less
than $5k.
I test drove the GS for 15 minutes on broad, low-traffic streets. This
is a big, powerful bike. Seems even taller than the KLR.
Which would you rather have for about the same money: a new KLR650 or a
like-new R100GS?
Thanks,
Artie
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- Posts: 233
- Joined: Sun Apr 21, 2002 11:33 am
so now where? (was: where to put the number plate ?)
I relocated mine onto the bottom holes, just as you suggest,
after the tire started to chew up the dealer's nameplate and bend
my license plate. Worked fine - for a while. However, a week of
forest roads in the Big Horns and Wind River did a number on
the inner fender. The last 1/14" of the inner fender , to which the
license bracket bolts, is now hanging by a shred of plastic. I'm
thinking the inner fender has outlived its usefulness, and the
plate will have to move to the outer fender, under the taillight.
One obvious bodge is to bolt the stock bracket to the fender;
which seems simple but inelegant. Drilling the fender for tie
wraps has more pose value, undermined perhaps by the
presence of actual turn signals, and a VIN that matches up with
the plate. So, any ideas? And what about the inner fender?
Dremel and tin snips to excise the visible parts, or is it worth the
trouble to disassemble everything back there and extract it
properly?
I may have asked a similar question a few months ago, but now I
have to do something, so any suggestion is gratefully received.
-- In DSN_klr650@y..., "jayhummm" wrote:
plate> I just slid the license plate up on the bracket, using the bottom > holes instead of the top ones. You have to bend the top of the
inside of> a little bit so that it clears the light. > > Jay in PA > A15 > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "kfali" wrote: > > Ok, I have successfully bent my number plate towards the
happened> > the rear tire, it has acquired a nice smooth curve. This
actually!> > while I jumped off of a sidewalk, and yes in Manhattan
is it> > Devon I have seen your numberplate on top of ur rear fender,
even> > screwed in or something else. > > What would be a good place to mount it so I can jump from
jumping off> higher > > sidewalks.> > > > Kfali > > > > * I got a head shake from a cop on a horse while I was
> > the sidewalk. Between 58 st and 5th ave.
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