nklr: suzuki oil/air cooling

[kg4bda650]

Hi Folks, Scoping out the Swingarm Lube Project last night; I was wondering if any of member of the Collective has posted any procedures on this task. My archieve search came back empty. I have purchased Marine Grade Aluminum Complex Grease, (cheap about 2 bucks and change) for this project. Which pivot point gets the juice? all? Which of the pivots is the one giving all th trouble, the swingarm mount pivot or the engine case pivot? Any info will be greatly appreciated! Regards, Peter

[cactus_reese]

There should be info in the archives. Search on Unitrack. There were a number of posts two weeks ago. I had the most trouble getting the lower Unitrack bolt out, not the swingarm. There are lots of bearings in the unitrack system. They should all be lubed, but I must say that all my seals were in place and all my bearings were clean and had lube on them after 10,000 miles. The problem I had was the pivot bolts being rusted to the inner sleeves. That's where some kind of corrosion resistant treatment was most necessary on my A12. The corrosion did not really affect the Unitrack operation, just the ability to take it apart. I used some Permatex Anti-Sieze stuff on the bolts and inner sleeves that seemed to fill-in and adhere to the rusted surfaces. Some have reported a lack of lubrication or missing bearing seals when they pulled theirs apart. The job is pretty straight forward. 1) Support the bike under the skid plate to raise the rear wheel. I used two jackstands. 2)Remove the rear wheel. 3)Remove the front sprocket cover. 4)Clean the Unitrack as much as possible. 5)Remove the lower shock bolt. 6)Remove the links (there is a left and right link that are not interchangeable and make sure you put the bolts in these links the same direction that they came out - head on left). 7)Loosen the lower rear engine mount bolt. 8)Remove the swingarm bolt ( may need to tap it out). 9)Remove the main (lower) Unitrack bolt (may need to beat it out with much travail). 10)Some say clean all old grease off of the bearings with solvent and others (Fred) says just slather more grease in over the old. If you clean with solvent, don't get solvent on the seals. I did a mix. I avoided punching the bearings out by dropping the entire Unitrack knuckle assembly (less seals) in a can of solvent, then blew them out with canned air. Then I just slathered new grease over the old on the Swingarm bearings. 11) Put back together in reverse order, but don't do the final torquing untill its all reassembled. Don't forget to tighten the engine mount. There I did it. A step-by-step procedure someone can post on a website. Feel free to correct as you see fit. -Bryan

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "kg4bda650" wrote: > Hi Folks, > Scoping out the Swingarm Lube Project last night; I was wondering if > any of member of the Collective has posted any procedures on this > task. My archieve search came back empty. I have purchased Marine > Grade Aluminum Complex Grease, (cheap about 2 bucks and change) for > this project. > Which pivot point gets the juice? all? > Which of the pivots is the one giving all th trouble, the swingarm > mount pivot or the engine case pivot? > Any info will be greatly appreciated! > Regards, > Peter

[Guest]

Since it is going to be another rain-drenched weekend its ideal for these types of maintenance projects. Thanks for the advise. I feel pretty confident tackling this project efficiently and effectively with the advise from you and Bryan and others. After I had my bike up on jackstands with help from my wife and my little 4 yr old running around the garage; the whole thing didn't look too secure. To my arsenal of tools, I just added a hydraulic motorcycle jack purchased last night after dinner. It seems a worthwhile tool to have. I'll post any new issues I come across to the list. Thanks again, Best Regards Peter |---------+---------------------------> | | TM1669@... | | | | | | 06/20/2002 04:02| | | PM | | | | |---------+--------------------------->

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| | | To: PEDRO.VALDES@... | | cc: | | Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Swingarm Lube Project - Help |

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I just did mine last weekend. It really wasn't hard at all. I think the main point of concern is the main swingarm pivot with the bolt that goes through the back of the motor. It seems to corrode if left without lube. Also do the suspension linkage while your there. There are needle bearings in all of the pivot points that will need some grease. Just remove the bolts and pack some grease into the bearing. Probably you should remove and clean the bearings but Ive had some bad experiences with needle bearings so I decided to leave them in for now. I just squeezed as much bearing grease in there as I could and replaced the bolt.

[caliphery]

Hi, Just spent about 6 hours running through the procedure for lubing the swingarm and unitrack bearings, including clean-up, and it went reasonably well. All bolts slid out pretty smoothly for me. It was a lot of work and not at all what I'd call easy. Can anyone tell me how this compares (in terms of time, effort, technical competence) with a valve clearance check? (That's what I'm planning on doing next.) The instructions below are good; I thought I'd add a bit more detail. * For novices, to remove the rear wheel, you have to remove the rear brake from its swingarm mounting by removing the two allen bolts holding it in place. * If you have lowering links, you have to remove them first before removing the lower shock bolt. * My links were somewhat tough to remove. A rubber mallet is very useful for working these loose and also for beating on the various bolts you have to remove to get the swingarm and unitrack off. * Loosen the motor mount a lot, or you'll have to loosen it again after removing the swing arm bolt. * Have a lot of clean rags or a roll of paper towels to wipe dirty grease off parts. * Have a good torque wrench which can easily crank out 72ft-lbs. Mine was a bit lame and this made it more troublesome to tighten everything in the end. * While you're doing this procedure, you can take the opportunity to install the improved shift lever you bought but never had time to put on. -C A13 Keillor

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "cactus_reese" wrote: > There should be info in the archives. Search on Unitrack. There were > a number of posts two weeks ago. I had the most trouble getting the > lower Unitrack bolt out, not the swingarm. There are lots of bearings > in the unitrack system. They should all be lubed, but I must say that > all my seals were in place and all my bearings were clean and had lube > on them after 10,000 miles. > > The problem I had was the pivot bolts being rusted to the inner > sleeves. That's where some kind of corrosion resistant treatment was > most necessary on my A12. The corrosion did not really affect the > Unitrack operation, just the ability to take it apart. I used some > Permatex Anti-Sieze stuff on the bolts and inner sleeves that seemed > to fill-in and adhere to the rusted surfaces. > > Some have reported a lack of lubrication or missing bearing seals when > they pulled theirs apart. > > The job is pretty straight forward. > 1) Support the bike under the skid plate to raise the rear wheel. I > used two jackstands. > 2)Remove the rear wheel. > 3)Remove the front sprocket cover. > 4)Clean the Unitrack as much as possible. > 5)Remove the lower shock bolt. > 6)Remove the links (there is a left and right link that are not > interchangeable and make sure you put the bolts in these links the > same direction that they came out - head on left). > 7)Loosen the lower rear engine mount bolt. > 8)Remove the swingarm bolt ( may need to tap it out). > 9)Remove the main (lower) Unitrack bolt (may need to beat it out with > much travail). > 10)Some say clean all old grease off of the bearings with solvent and > others (Fred) says just slather more grease in over the old. If you > clean with solvent, don't get solvent on the seals. I did a mix. I > avoided punching the bearings out by dropping the entire Unitrack > knuckle assembly (less seals) in a can of solvent, then blew them out > with canned air. Then I just slathered new grease over the old on the > Swingarm bearings. > 11) Put back together in reverse order, but don't do the final > torquing untill its all reassembled. Don't forget to tighten the > engine mount. > > There I did it. A step-by-step procedure someone can post on a > website. Feel free to correct as you see fit. > > -Bryan > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "kg4bda650" wrote: > > Hi Folks, > > Scoping out the Swingarm Lube Project last night; I was wondering if > > any of member of the Collective has posted any procedures on this > > task. My archieve search came back empty. I have purchased Marine > > Grade Aluminum Complex Grease, (cheap about 2 bucks and change) for > > this project. > > Which pivot point gets the juice? all? > > Which of the pivots is the one giving all th trouble, the swingarm > > mount pivot or the engine case pivot? > > Any info will be greatly appreciated! > > Regards, > > Peter

[caliphery]

Hi, Just spent about 6 hours running through the procedure for lubing the swingarm and unitrack bearings, including clean-up, and it went reasonably well. All bolts slid out pretty smoothly for me. It was a lot of work and not at all what I'd call easy. Can anyone tell me how this compares (in terms of time, effort, technical competence) with a valve clearance check? (That's what I'm planning on doing next.) The instructions below are good; I thought I'd add a bit more detail. * For novices, to remove the rear wheel, you have to remove the rear brake from its swingarm mounting by removing the two allen bolts holding it in place. * If you have lowering links, you have to remove them first before removing the lower shock bolt. * My links were somewhat tough to remove. A rubber mallet is very useful for working these loose and also for beating on the various bolts you have to remove to get the swingarm and unitrack off. * Loosen the motor mount a lot, or you'll have to loosen it again after removing the swing arm bolt. * Have a lot of clean rags or a roll of paper towels to wipe dirty grease off parts. * Have a good torque wrench which can easily crank out 72ft-lbs. Mine was a bit lame and this made it more troublesome to tighten everything in the end. * While you're doing this procedure, you can take the opportunity to install the improved shift lever you bought but never had time to put on. -C A13 Keillor

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "cactus_reese" wrote: > There should be info in the archives. Search on Unitrack. There were > a number of posts two weeks ago. I had the most trouble getting the > lower Unitrack bolt out, not the swingarm. There are lots of bearings > in the unitrack system. They should all be lubed, but I must say that > all my seals were in place and all my bearings were clean and had lube > on them after 10,000 miles. > > The problem I had was the pivot bolts being rusted to the inner > sleeves. That's where some kind of corrosion resistant treatment was > most necessary on my A12. The corrosion did not really affect the > Unitrack operation, just the ability to take it apart. I used some > Permatex Anti-Sieze stuff on the bolts and inner sleeves that seemed > to fill-in and adhere to the rusted surfaces. > > Some have reported a lack of lubrication or missing bearing seals when > they pulled theirs apart. > > The job is pretty straight forward. > 1) Support the bike under the skid plate to raise the rear wheel. I > used two jackstands. > 2)Remove the rear wheel. > 3)Remove the front sprocket cover. > 4)Clean the Unitrack as much as possible. > 5)Remove the lower shock bolt. > 6)Remove the links (there is a left and right link that are not > interchangeable and make sure you put the bolts in these links the > same direction that they came out - head on left). > 7)Loosen the lower rear engine mount bolt. > 8)Remove the swingarm bolt ( may need to tap it out). > 9)Remove the main (lower) Unitrack bolt (may need to beat it out with > much travail). > 10)Some say clean all old grease off of the bearings with solvent and > others (Fred) says just slather more grease in over the old. If you > clean with solvent, don't get solvent on the seals. I did a mix. I > avoided punching the bearings out by dropping the entire Unitrack > knuckle assembly (less seals) in a can of solvent, then blew them out > with canned air. Then I just slathered new grease over the old on the > Swingarm bearings. > 11) Put back together in reverse order, but don't do the final > torquing untill its all reassembled. Don't forget to tighten the > engine mount. > > There I did it. A step-by-step procedure someone can post on a > website. Feel free to correct as you see fit. > > -Bryan > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "kg4bda650" wrote: > > Hi Folks, > > Scoping out the Swingarm Lube Project last night; I was wondering if > > any of member of the Collective has posted any procedures on this > > task. My archieve search came back empty. I have purchased Marine > > Grade Aluminum Complex Grease, (cheap about 2 bucks and change) for > > this project. > > Which pivot point gets the juice? all? > > Which of the pivots is the one giving all th trouble, the swingarm > > mount pivot or the engine case pivot? > > Any info will be greatly appreciated! > > Regards, > > Peter

[Zachariah Mully]

On Mon, 2002-07-08 at 23:24, caliphery wrote:

> Hi,

> * Loosen the motor mount a lot, or you'll have to loosen it again > after removing the swing arm bolt. > > > -C > > A13 Keillor

C- I'd make one recommendation for the procedure. If you've loosen the rear motor mount to remove the swingarm, then when you're replacing it, you should follow the motor mount tightening sequence as described in the shop manual. If you don't, it might cause the bike to vibrate more. Z DC

[Devon Jarvis]

As someone who habitually lanesplits, I respectfully point out that if you couldn't spot the trooper ahead of time, you weren't paying enough attention to your surroundings to be safely lanesplitting. Though whatever you were doing, you were doing it safely enough or he would have definitely written you a ticket. When it's not legal, lanesplitting is generally enforced at the whim of the local police. I've been warned but never ticketed. Devon InWoods13@... wrote:

> > > Would love to be able to split legally, It'd save Loads of time in the right > situations. Last time I tried a wee minor lane share here, I was immediately > nabbed by a trooper. He ended up being cool about it though, and let me off > with a warning, & a "ride safe". -Scott > > A14 "thunderdog" > Sorrento, Fl >