the $#%&^$%^ front sprocket

[Matthew]

Hey all, While doing my valve job last week (thanks for help Rich!) I noticed that my main nut holding heaset in is loose. Its the big nut that to get to you must loosen handle bars. Anyway Rich gave it a little snug for the road, But soon i need to Tighten it all the way down (was as tight as we could get it with vise grip). Is there a torqe setting for it. Any chance there may be Damaged bearings in there? Any tips suggestions would be appriciated :0) Btw I use peanut butter in muffler (more oil than a dry old peanut) no flying fire balls either! One more thing.. SLIME! what up with that stuff. I cant get it in tire for nothin. took valave out. even had tire inflated without valve core in??? I used the papper clip to try and unglog it. I dont think its because of a clog. its like theres a little "extra" valve in there. What do ya'all think about that? Thanks to all for everything im learning here. Matthew ===== Matthew A14 Tucson AZ ----------------------------------------------------------- For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. john 3:16 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! http://auctions.yahoo.com

[jake_sagebrush]

There's a lot of frustration/anger/skinned knuckles out there re: the '96 and later front sprocket. If I had a later KLR, here's how I'd attack it: From MSC Supply 800-645-7270, Get the appropriate sized impact socket in 6-point; 1/2 inch drive. Rent an electric or air impact tool: 1/2 inch. With a pin punch, say 1/4" dia. thoroughly flatten the ersatz washer against the sprocket in the area where it was bent up around the nut flats. Run the engine for a minute to get oil up around the piston rings. You'll be working against the compression stroke, and best to use top gear, for best mechanical advantage, and I suspect more equal gearset diameter: more strength per tooth. Impact action should be equally distributed around the shaft centerline; lest you bend or break the threaded portion of the shaft, or damage the bushing/seal. I'd avoid the "jam the chain" method, up to you. Eldon or Fred could confirm whether this method produces a risk to engine or gearbox components; I would defer to them. After removal, see Fred for part numbers for a standard socket to carry on a trip; also a 1/2 inch L-wrench, and you should be able to remove/replace Jake's Right Nut (as opposed to the WRONG nut) and change the c/chaft sprocket as easily as us pre-'96ers.