emergency off switch

[Bogdan Swider]

> OK........... > I'll change the rubber guides at 30,000, too! > > Again, my didn't need to be changed at 40,000; inspect them first > before buying new ones. >

Bogdan

[s2mumford]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "richard6121" wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@y..., Jim Hyman wrote: > > >1/32", there is too much room for error. If you remove the "outer" > >(rear) balancer chain guide, you can use 16 or 17 links for your > >measurement, cutting down any error factor. You've gone this far, > >it's not much more work to remove the chain & measure it properly. > > The inner left engine cover is still in place. How much extra work > is necessary to remove the chain at this point?

Not much. 8 (or 10) bolts for the cover and then some snap rings for the sprockets. I took off the inner cover, I think you have to to replace your idler shaft tensioner lever.

> How many of the > balancers will need to come out? I guess I'll need external snap- > ring pliers for the circlips that hold the balancer weights on

their

> shafts?

I suggest getting a set of brand name Channellock 4 way snap ring pliers. I have a set and there is no comparison. Internal, external, straight , 45 and 90 degree tips. Top quality, and never met a snap ring they couldn't remove easily.

> I'm confident that the new part, when installed, will be near the

end

> of its adjustment range. Any ballpark idea as to how much chain

the

> chain guides cost? > > RM

I suggest just putting in the new part and buttoning it up. I think you're heading towards replacing the piston and connecting rod because you got a flat tire, if you catch my drift... Rotsa ruck CA Stu

[rm@richardmay.net]

Quoting Bogdan Swider :

>>Since the spring doesn't have significant tension, doing >>the balancer adjust procedure cannot possibly accomplish anything >>worthwhile. >I suppose I should believe you and not my own lying ears.

Bogdan, I was referring to MY bike. I'm not adjusting MY tensioner anymore since the spring no longer has tension. I'm not advising anyone else to do this. Actually, I think I'm going to investigate further, and maybe replace the chain guides. It would be nice if I could get some tension again. RM

[Bogdan Swider]

> >I suppose I should believe you and not my own lying ears. > > Bogdan, I was referring to MY bike. I'm not adjusting MY tensioner > anymore > since the spring no longer has tension. I'm not advising anyone else to > do > this. > > Actually, I think I'm going to investigate further, and maybe replace the > chain > guides. It would be nice if I could get some tension again. > > RM > >

Now I get it. Sorry. Is it your spring that no longer has tension or......is it the slotted lever that's at the end of its' range ? I know Elden was thinking of manufacturing a lever that starts its' life on the left side of the slot or to put it another way, doesn't' start in the middle, like many do, and thus will compensate for more chain stretch. When I get my engine back I may look into this too. Bogdan

[Krgrife@aol.com]

In a message dated 12/12/01 2:10:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, bSwider@... writes: The rubber guides are doing most of the wearing and are the biggest

> contributor to chain slack. Those are good for ~30,000 miles. > Everything else can go 60K in my opinion. >>

We've had some discussion of this in the past, the balancer chain guides are not rubber (or whatever kind of plastic) like we are used to seeing for cam chain guides. They are metal with a partial coating of a quite hard bakelite sort of material in strategic places. On the motors that I have taken apart (three of them) I haven't seen wear on these guides that would contribute to chain slack. Kurt Grife

[Tengai650]

At 7:17 PM -0500 12/12/01, Krgrife@... wrote:

>In a message dated 12/12/01 2:10:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, >bSwider@... writes: > > The rubber guides are doing most of the wearing and are the biggest > > contributor to chain slack. Those are good for ~30,000 miles. > > Everything else can go 60K in my opinion. >> > >We've had some discussion of this in the past, the balancer chain guides are >not rubber (or whatever kind of plastic) like we are used to seeing for cam >chain guides. They are metal with a partial coating of a quite hard bakelite >sort of material in strategic places.

Bakelite is a plastic. Regardless of what it is, the chain does not contact any metal on the guides and the guide material is softer than the metal of the chain. Mark B2 A2 A3

[RM]

On Wed, 12 Dec 2001, Bogdan Swider wrote:

> Now I get it. Sorry. Is it your spring that no longer has tension >or......is it the slotted lever that's at the end of its' range?

The spring seems healthy. I don't have an intact lever to install yet, so I don't know how close to the end of the adjustment range it will be. My problem is that I have so much chain slack that the chain becomes taut just as the spring reaches full contraction. My preliminary measurement suggests that the chain is not worn. I think I'm going to remove it and use a dial caliper over as many links as possible for more accuracy. I used a ruler the first time around... I'm also going to inspect the guides. RM

[Krgrife@aol.com]

In a message dated 12/12/01 4:31:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, Tengai650@... writes: << Bakelite is a plastic. Regardless of what it is, the chain does not contact any metal on the guides and the guide material is softer than the metal of the chain. >> Yes, I know that Bakelite is a plastic, my point was that the balancer guides are mostly metal and I have not seen the type of wear on them that I see on cam chain slippers. When I say that I haven't seen much wear on these guides I am only reporting my observations. Kurt

[Tengai650]

>At 7:47 PM -0500 12/12/01, Krgrife@... wrote: >Yes, I know that Bakelite is a plastic, my point was that the balancer guides >are mostly metal and I have not seen the type of wear on them that I see on >cam chain slippers. When I say that I haven't seen much wear on these guides >I am only reporting my observations. >Kurt

OK, got it. Anyway, just to set the record straight on the guide material, I just went out to the garage to get a set of balancer guides. I washed them off in the kitchen sink under warm water and they are indeed rubber moulded over a metal support. Mark B2 A2 A3

[Jimmy James]

Solder a penny to it? James

> > Help, > > > > The red finger toggle cap came off of my Emergency OFF switch and is

lost.

> > > > The dealer indicated that I had to buy an entirely new switch assembly > > module for $45. > > > > I suspect that if I had the cap, I could snap-fit it into the existing > > housing, and all would work well as all it appears to do is make an > > electrical ground. > > > > Anyone have a low price solution? > > > > Thanks > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >