"in Texas, you don't need to present proof of coverage in order to renew
your registration or plates..."
This is required here in Houston, Texas.
-----Original Message-----
From:
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 2:04 PM
To:
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_klr650] Digest Number 1483
Visit the KLR650 archives at
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Newby questions
From: "Mark St.Hilaire, Sr"
2. Re: Tires & Wind Screens.
From: fireball@...
3. re: Getting the KLR off the Ground
From: "John J Fisher"
4. Progressive front springs
From: tllee@...
5. Re: Tires & Wind Screens (and my trip this weekend).
From: "Eric Knight Holbrook"
6. Got a bolt problem on my hands
From: "Eric Knight Holbrook"
7. Re: Hello from new subscriber NKLR
From: Dan Oaks
8. Re: Digest Number 1478
From: "Marc Illsley Clarke"
9. NKLR Need DR 650 parts!!
From: "Glenn"
10. Re: Progressive front springs
From: squidwannabe@...
11. Re: Re: New '01 KLR 650 mod questions - NKLR
From: RM
12. Re: All about SEX and RTVs
From: RM
13. Re: Whiz pan was mod questions NKLR
From: RM
14. A seat question?
From: ricbon@...
15. Re: Re: Joe Rocket Pheonix jacket - NKLR
From: RM
16. Re: KLR Insurance, Multiple Bikes
From: debbie@...
17. Re: Digest Number 1477
From: RM
18. Re: A seat question?
From: k650dsn@...
19. Results of Insurance Poll
From: "Barry Levine"
20. Abnormal Idle - Thoughts?
From: Jason Lutz - ISDX
21. Re: Digest Number 1477
From: "Barry Levine"
22. Gear Ratio Chart
From: KLR650@...
23. Re: Digest Number 1477
From: "Jim Jackson"
24. NKLR - DR200se or XT225?
From: "Charles MacKarness"
25. Clutch slipping - Long
From: "Dale Johnson"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 06:18:55 -0400
From: "Mark St.Hilaire, Sr"
Subject: Re: Newby questions
> Who makes a decent shop manual?
I recently checked when I bought a KLR and found that nobody but Kawasaki
has shop manuals for the bike; Haynes and Clymer didn't, at least. You'll
actually need 2, the base manual and the supplemental manual. You can get
the manuals from a Kawasaki dealer, or Fred at:
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
A good alternative to the shop manuals is to search the message archives
here, and:
http://www.dualsportnews.com/toc.htm (Procedures, including valve
adjustment)
http://www.finishlinewest.com/klr_650_valve_adjustment.htm (A lot of valve
adj. pictures)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_klr650/files/ (More procedures from this
list)
http://www.ironjungle.com/ (ShimCalc tells you what shims to use to get
correct clearance)
> What is a good source for a stainless steel front brake line?
Installation
> pretty straightforward?
> A replacement for the plastic bash plate?
Again, Fred at
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com is the best choice for all this
stuff, and will make recommendations if you're not sure about something -
responds VERY fast to Email, and does what he says he's going to.
> Any non-obvious things to look out for, upgrade, etc.?
This greatly depends on the type of riding you do. *I* don't do much, if
any, trail riding - mostly pavement and dirt/gravel roads, so don't see the
need at this point for suspension work. I ordered this stuff from Fred as
it seems rather basic "must have" equipment, and might be something for you
to think about:
shims (I got the 16 shim set)
Moose bash plate
stainless brake lines front & back
guard for the rear brake "junction," (just behind brake pedal)
Xeon 55/100 headlamp
gel grips
I also ordered basic tuneup stuff - plugs, filters, etc. There are a number
of mods that you can do that won't cost much and should help, such as the
carb. "T" mod found at the list files section. (See the link above)
Good luck, enjoy your new ride!
Mark St.Hilaire, Sr
A15
HomePage:
http://home.adelphia.net/~msaint/
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:33:01 -0000
From: fireball@...
Subject: Re: Tires & Wind Screens.
I'm happy with the Gripster (with tube) and the Clearview heavy-duty
shield. The Clearview seems to deflect most of the blast at speed,
say on an extended trip. A short shield, or no shield at all works
if you're riding offroad at slower speeds.
Stuart
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 07:56:27 -0400
From: "John J Fisher"
Subject: re: Getting the KLR off the Ground
If you got a garage or workshed, here is another idea for a bike stand. A
guy on
a local Ducati club built an inexpensive
home made bike stand. I didn't have the room in my garage but put the
support
system for my hoist thru the
ceiling of my garage. It runs about $20-$30 and works like a champ. I have
yet
to drop down one more, so I can lift the
entire bike.
Here is my version and on this page you can link to the home made bike
stand.
http://ducati.reliacom.com/Technical/FrontStand/JFisher/FS.html
John
I know the list is always talking about the virtues or vices of
having a center stand on the bike to perform maintenance, etc. Well I
thought I would share my little method that I came up with yesterday,
and I'll be damned, it worked.
Jim Sherlock
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:34:10 -0000
From: tllee@...
Subject: Progressive front springs
I installled the progressive front fork springs this weekend and
after abour a 20 mile ride would like to "soften" them a bit. I feel
they are too stiff now though the dipping when I brake is WAY
improved. Will removing some oil improve matters? How much at a time?
Thanks for your imput.
Rod
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 13:05:56 -0000
From: "Eric Knight Holbrook"
Subject: Re: Tires & Wind Screens (and my trip this weekend).
> Now, a question for you engineer types. I have tried the Kawasaki
> tall windscreen, the stock windscreen, and no windscreen and so far
I > like now windscreen at all. What happens is with the windscreens
I > get tubulance somewhere above my head, maybe top of my helmet it
it
> wants to shake my fillings out of my teeth and scramble my
eyeballs.
> I am 5'6" so fairly shorter than most people. > deast@v...
> Concord, NC
I am 5'10.5"
I use the Kawasaki Windscreen and I took the bike this past weekend
on a 400+ mile, mostly highway trip up to Lake George NY and back (up
240 miles one day, back 240 miles the next). 90% of the ride was as
85mph+ in very heavy traffic. Add to that there were many side winds
across various valleys and open farmlands and that it was raining on
and off most of the way.
But I was able to sit completely upright (or for that matter any
position I wanted and even so far as to ride one handed for a few
moments when my left arm got tired) with next to zero buffeting and
was passed by about 3 cars (2 audi's and a porche) the whole trip (I
was racing the thunderstorms behind me). The Screen... and the
bike... performed waaaaay above my expectations for such a long trip.
The vibration after-effect was minimal and I was not tired or sore.
Things to consider on my own bike... some having to do with the
buffeting, some just my trip:
1. I have a lowered fender which I installed recently and while I was
worried about it vibrating off or worse, it didn't move a millimeter
on the frame and most likely cut down on alot of the buffeting I
would normally have felt in the bike's ride. The bike was rock solid
everywhere except when about 50 yards behind a Semi, or a large van.
Then it got a little buffety until I pulled closer and passed them.
2. I started out with a heavy (and sort of tight) leather jacket but
switched after 50 miles to a tight nylon weatherproof thing and this
cut down alot of the buffeting. Strange, but true. The leather seemed
to catch the wind much more and made going above 70mph much more
wobbly when behind a car at highspeeds. I would rather have leather
on for protection, but it was a choice I had to make.
3. I have a 16tooth front sprocket making those higher speeds much
less buzzy and allowing me to pass cars going 80mph with relative
ease.
4. I was disappointed in how fast the rear tire wore out, is wearing
out. I'm at 3100 miles after 6 months, but up until this trip the
wear was minimal. When I checked it after I reached my destination I
swear it lost about a centimeter of it's center tread, and the tread
itself was squishy and felt like... well soft rubber. Scary.
5. Chain wax. I swear by this stuff now. The chain was perfect and
slippery but most of all, the crap doesn't spew off onto the rear rim
like everything else I've tried. This stuff relly sticks.
6. Oil. I had to put in 1/2 a quart on the way down. That seems a
little high to me.
7. I have a supertrapp ISDII (IDS? - whatever) quiet series with 8
disks, no rejetting. Anyway... 1,500 miles after installation,
despite others claims that it sucks, mine is working perfectly still.
No loose bolts or welds, not any louder. So far so good (famous last
words)
So all in all the bike was a great success and performed far beyond
what I was expecting (I had a KLR650 10 years ago and long highway
trips wore the hell out of me on it). Much much different experience
this time/bike around.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 13:20:00 -0000
From: "Eric Knight Holbrook"
Subject: Got a bolt problem on my hands
Well, I made the mistake of using the KLR stock tools to try to get
off the bolts on the footpegs.
3 Went fine... the 4th just wouldn't come out the wrench's mouth
started bending or opening and like an idiot I made the mistake of
persisting until the bolt was getting worn on the edges. I don't know
the name of the other tool that comes with the kit, but the round one
that fits over the bolt "might" work, but I can get any leverage
because there's no cross-hole to slide in a rod to allow you to twist
it.
Any have a good suggestion for the type of wrench or tool to get this
this friggin bolt off? I'm now stuck with a bike with one footpeg
with one bolt on it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 09:41:04 -0400
From: Dan Oaks
Subject: Re: Hello from new subscriber NKLR
Anyone who starts his first post with "Hell!" is OK with me.
Welcome to the fucking KLR list, Jonathan!
--
bierdo
jonathan wrote:
> Hell!
>
> Am new to this list.
>
> Am considering purchasing a new KLR650 and wonder if anyone could would
> like to share their comments good or bad about the bike. Anything I
> should be aware of as a possible new owner?
>
> I'm into getting a UK model in last years metallic red/black colours...
>
> thanks in advance
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 8:57:00 -0600
From: "Marc Illsley Clarke"
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1478
Jim,
Most interesting post. I have my lowest two discs severely damaged
and my cocyx (sp?) is broken off. My sacrum rotates painfully. The stock
KLR650 saddle is an implement of torture for me.
Thanks for the heads-up on the discomfort of the dished Corbin.
Are you not concerned about the wings on the Russel impeding your
ability to slide back on the seat for steep descents or going off ledges?
So a Russel is comfortable for you -- you closely match my lower
spinal condition. I bought my KLR because of its upright seating position
-- I can't even sit on a race style bike in a dealet's showroom.
For now, I find that a sheepskin fleece pad I got from Whitehorse
Press really helps atop my stock saddle.
-- Marc, KLR650 A12, Loveland, Colorado, USA
Jsherlockholmz@... wrote:
__________
KlistRs
>okay with the stock seat?
>
> Barry
> >>
>
>Not this lister. I hated the stock seat, got a Corbin. Now I hate the
Corbin
>cuz it has a lump right where your tailbone is. Allegedly to allow your
>cheeks to spread over the seat. With the KLR's vibrations, all that occurs
is
>*monkey butt*. I even tried covering the frame under the seat with pipe
>insulation foam to separate me from those vibrations. Not enough. As soon
as
>I can afford it, I am getting a Russell Day Long Saddle. I sat on one at a
>vendor booth for a bike race, and I'm sold. I have two bad lumbar discs and
a
>sacrum (tailbone) that doesn't want to stay correctly oriented due to the
>lumbar disc ruptures. The stock seat sucks. That thing ought to be listed
as
>a modern day torture device. I know some iron-butts around here have
learned
>to live with it. But, if you aren't an iron butt, turn it into a Russell or
>take your chances with a Corbin. Apparently the gel seats offered out there
>don't work worth a darn. (Just going by listers comments)
>
>Jim Sherlock
>Austin, Texas
-- Marc
Marc Illsley Clarke
mailto:marcclarke@...
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 08:39:23 -0700
From: "Glenn"
Subject: NKLR Need DR 650 parts!!
Hi list, can anyone out there point me in the direction to find a gas
tank for a 93 DR 650? Must be in good to very good shape, decals do not
matter. Thanks!!
--glenn
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:53:12 -0000
From: squidwannabe@...
Subject: Re: Progressive front springs
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., tllee@s... wrote:
> I installled the progressive front fork springs this weekend and
> after abour a 20 mile ride would like to "soften" them a bit. I
feel
> they are too stiff now though the dipping when I brake is WAY
> improved. Will removing some oil improve matters? How much at a
time?
> Thanks for your imput.
> Rod
I wouldn't remove oil, but I would go to a thinner oil. like 10Wt.
What weight oil do you have in it ?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:17:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: RM
Subject: Re: Re: New '01 KLR 650 mod questions - NKLR
On Sat, 23 Jun 2001, Mark St.Hilaire, Sr wrote:
>, Yeah, that's the one *I* use all the time, and am getting
>ready to again when my order from Fred comes next week. You have to
>also include, of course, a "what are you, blind?" look on your face to
>be fully effective.
It's just one more argument for keeping your bike as dirty as possible.
New shiny bits and OEM dull bits all look the same when they're covered
with dried mud.
RM
Subject: Re: All about SEX and RTVs
On Sat, 23 Jun 2001, Rich Kickbush wrote:
>including engine components and gaskets and stuff. For example, I'm
>thinking of sealing all the ends to the connectors in my wiring harness, to
>prevent corrosion and lossy connections.
Goop on some Vaseline, maybe? Vaseline is non-corrosive, repels water,
and doesn't go anywhere unless you wipe it off or hit it with soapy water.
You don't wash your bike, do you?
RM
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:36:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: RM
Subject: Re: Whiz pan was mod questions NKLR
On Sat, 23 Jun 2001, John Irvine wrote:
>I had not heard the term before, are there other descriptor that are in
>common use? I just piss on a bush.
I live in an apartment complex. The neighbors don't really like it when I
expose myself in the parking lot. They also don't think that "nude" is
the default condition for relaxing in the jacuzzi. They get irritated
when I pour old brake fluid on the flower-bed and dump my old oil down the
storm-drain marked "No dumping - Drains directly to ocean."
They also don't care too much for my wheelie skills development sessions
in the parking lot at 11PM. There aren't any kids around to run over at
11PM so they *should* be OK with it.
You are fortunate if you have a house. Us renters have to soil up our
commodes with the dirty oil!
RM
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:46:42 -0000
From: ricbon@...
Subject: A seat question?
Hello group,
When I got my used KLR650-1998-..it came with a corbin seat..great I
thought..but after two days of riding and sliding around on it..put
the stock one back on. Heres my question, is it just me or do you guys
like the corbin...I find it very slippery and kind of a odd shape to
sit on....thanks R.J.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:52:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: RM
Subject: Re: Re: Joe Rocket Pheonix jacket - NKLR
On Sun, 24 Jun 2001 guymanbro@... wrote:
>Hell, If Andy can get me one for free I promise to get a good rolling
>start on my skateboard and belly-flop on the pavement (give me a good
>size hill and I can probably get up to 25mph.
Have a friend named "Johnny Knoxville" by some chance?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 16:54:21 -0000
From: debbie@...
Subject: Re: KLR Insurance, Multiple Bikes
Add the 4th bike, your premium will drop, Progressive offers a 10%
discount for 2 bikes, 25% for 3 and a whopping 50% for 4. If I could
find a small bike to add to my existing policy my premium would go
down $300 a year!
What a country
John
01 KLR 650
01 R1100SLA
81 R100S
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Tom Witt" wrote:
> Just added my KLR as my 3RD bike on my Progressive Policy. Don't
ask
> why I haven't done it prior to now, that's a discussion we don't
want
> to get into. Anyway, adding the KLR to my existing policy which
> includes my Triumph Trophy and the ZR1100 caused my yearly Premium
to
> jump by a drastic $2/year. I asked her twice on the phone, just to
be
> sure. Maybe I should add a fourth bike and see if my rates drop.
> Hehe....
>
> Tom (Southwestern Ohio)
> 2000 Kawasaki KLR650
> 1996 Triumph Trophy 900
> 1993 Kawasaki ZR1100
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:15:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: RM
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1477
On Sun, 24 Jun 2001 Jsherlockholmz@... wrote:
>and the hard carcass of the steel lines will increase brake performance.
>Look at it this way. With the stock line, you have soft rubber, so some
>of the energy that you created when you depressed the brake lever is
>used up flexing and expanding the rubber lines. When you change to
>Teflon/steel lines, that flex is reduced to an immeasurable amount. This
>allows almost all the energy that you created when depressing the brake
>lever to be spent on pressing the brake piston against the pads/disc
>instead.
I'm not a fluid engineer, but my line of thinking is that "x" lever force
will produce "y" line pressure which results in "z" braking force. The
expansion of the OEM brake line will affect the *volume* of fluid used,
but not the line pressure for a given lever force. The only way that a
line could change the relationship is if you can squeeze hard enough to
bottom the lever out against the grip.
RM
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:22:54 -0000
From: k650dsn@...
Subject: Re: A seat question?
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., ricbon@m... wrote:
> Hello group,
> When I got my used KLR650-1998-..it came with a corbin seat..great I
> thought..but after two days of riding and sliding around on it..put
> the stock one back on. Heres my question, is it just me or do you
guys
> like the corbin...I find it very slippery and kind of a odd shape to
> sit on....thanks R.J.
Yep, it is a strange seat. I sent mine back to have it straightened
out and widened. Now it is perfect.
Gino
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:45:32 -0000
From: "Barry Levine"
Subject: Results of Insurance Poll
Early last week I asked the list to eMail me answers to a number of
insurance questions I had asked. I did not get many responses but here are
the Q's & A's. Hopefully, this will assist someone.
Insurance Company: 2 - Progressive, 2 - Dairyland, 1 - State Farm
Cost/year:
Progressive - $286 (full coverage, West Virginia)
Progressive - $50 (liabililty only, no location given)
Dairyland - $160 (full coverage, Dallas County)
Dairyland - $57 (full coverage, Salt Lake City)
State Farm - $247 (full coverage, no location given)
MSF discount - very little for older (more experienced) riders - $4, "5%
allegedly", etc.)
You can see a broad swing of costs here, especially for that gent in Salt
Lake City - $57/year full coverage is astounding!
I just received a quote from Progressive for just under $300/year (full
coverage with very high limits of liability, etc.). I live in El Paso, Texas
where insurance rates are very high due to uninsured/underinsured motorists
- lots of cars from Juarez and New Mexico with no insurance and Texas cars
with none, as well. How is the latter possible? Well, in Texas, you don't
need to present proof of coverage in order to renew your registration or
plates; you only need to present it when you are actually involved in an
accident...and, of course, by that time... Oops! Too bad. I don't understand
why Texas doesn't mandate proof of insurance during the registration process
(like NY)....don't get me started......
Anyway, Progressive's discount for the MSF course would be only $4. They
indicated that younger riders (who would pay considerably more for liability
and collision) get a higher discount.
The mail just arrived along with a quote from Dairyland (with coverage
similar to but slightly less than Progressive's quote). The cost was over
$450/yr.
I haven't gotten a quote from my current insurance company (for auto) yet
but one could hope for something reasonable....
Let me know if this is helpful.
Regards,
Barry
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 10:53:33 -0700
From: Jason Lutz - ISDX
Subject: Abnormal Idle - Thoughts?
Okay, I have yet to start actually delving into this problem, but I figured
that I'm stuck at work so I will shoot the symptoms by you guys and see what
you come up with.
Bike idles normally around 1250. Once in a while I will come to a stop,
holding the clutch and the RPMS will remain at the point where I pulled the
clutch in.
For example: I'm coming to a stop and I pull the clutch in while the bike
was @3000. It remains @3000.
So I starting thinking that maybe the throttle cables were not pulling the
carb blade to idle position. I gave it a bit o' juice to see if the idle
drops...it them remains at the higher RPM. In the example, let's say 3400.
I get off the bike and look at the throttle position on the carb and made
sure it is back to idle, yup it is.
So let's say the bike is sitting there at 3400 RPM's I put it into neutral
and release the clutch. No change. I then put it into first gear, clutch
in. No change. I then start releasing the clutch and the idle drops when a
load is being applied.
Any ideas?
Only happens now and then...only outside varible I can think of is maybe hot
weather. Maybe a factor?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:53:57 -0000
From: "Barry Levine"
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1477
"X" lever force will produce "Y" line pressure which will produce "Z"
braking force. Well, that would be true if the volume of fluid "in the line"
did not increase. Look at it in this manner:
Assume you had a child's balloon with two open ends. Connect one end to the
master cylinder and the other end to the disc brake. Now squeeze the lever
and watch the balloon expand. Do you really think the brakes are being
applied with -any- measurable force at all? All the pressure on the lever is
being used to expand the balloon with brake fluid. Why? Because the balloon
is the part of the system with the least resistance to the pressure.
Accordingly, substitute steel-braided lines that do not expand and all the
pressure in the system goes to the caliper. *Presto*
Hope this helps.
Barry
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., RM wrote:
>
> On Sun, 24 Jun 2001 Jsherlockholmz@a... wrote:
>
> I'm not a fluid engineer, but my line of thinking is that "x" lever force
> will produce "y" line pressure which results in "z" braking force. The
> expansion of the OEM brake line will affect the *volume* of fluid used,
> but not the line pressure for a given lever force. The only way that a
> line could change the relationship is if you can squeeze hard enough to
> bottom the lever out against the grip.
>
> RM
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:55:35 -0000
From: KLR650@...
Subject: Gear Ratio Chart
Renthal has a very comprehensive chart of gear ratios at
http://www.renthal.com/resources/ratios.htm
and an excellent explanation at
http://www.renthal.com/resources/guide.htm
Gerret
DoD#839
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:10:47
From: "Jim Jackson"
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1477
I'm not an engineer at all but it seems to me there is a 'feel' and time
factor here as well. If you pull the lever in till you reach your desired
braking force, the line will still be expanding and therefore decreasing the
volume/pressure inside so that in order to keep the same braking force you
must pull the lever in farther thus applying more pressure, expanding the
line more and so forth in a decreasing curve. Does this make any sense?
Jim Jackson II
A13 "Gonzo" (still no takers?)
Baltimore MD
----Original Message Follows----
From: RM
CC: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Digest Number 1477
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 12:15:02 -0500 (CDT)
I'm not a fluid engineer, but my line of thinking is that "x" lever force
will produce "y" line pressure which results in "z" braking force. The
expansion of the OEM brake line will affect the *volume* of fluid used,
but not the line pressure for a given lever force. The only way that a
line could change the relationship is if you can squeeze hard enough to
bottom the lever out against the grip.
RM
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:20:32 -0000
From: "Charles MacKarness"
Subject: NKLR - DR200se or XT225?
In the quest to replace the stolen EX500 for Mrs. Rev. I am at a wye
in the road... Both bikes are somewhat similar in many aspects, but.
The XT225 is only $100.00 more, but 1 gallon less in the tank
department. The DR200se is a well spoke of ride... Which path do you
choose grasshopper?
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 19:03:58 -0000
From: "Dale Johnson"
Subject: Clutch slipping - Long
OK, I had a bad week as far as my KLR goes last week. I just got my
bearings after a LONG wait. This was because someone lost my order.
OK so I waited over a month for my bike to be working again. Well on
Tuesday the bolt that held the front sprocket came off and the seal
behind it blew and dumped all my oil. I had to push my bike a mile
and a half to a Wal-Mart so I could get a tool and oil to fill it
back up, got home around 10pm, then on Wednesday I was going to go to
work early so I could stop at the bank, I got ready to get on the
bike and the battery was dead I jumped it and off I went, I got off
the freeway near my bank and I had no shift lever it fell off
somewhere on the freeway.. Well when I got off the bike to inspect I
shut it off and the battery was still dead, I got someone to help me
jump it and had to ask him to hold my clutch in while I put my seat
back on and put my backpack on the back. So I rode to the bank in 5th
gear. Then had to get another guy to help me jump it there. Rode to
work in 5th gear. Had the guys in MC charge my battery and rode home
in 5th gear. Put my spare shift lever on at home,.. Well guess what
now. My clutch is slipping. When I am in 5th gear on the freeway and
I open up the throttle, the engine revs but I don't speed up.
SO my question is this. Is this in fact the clutch? And how hard is
it to replace? And how much is it going to cost me?
Dale
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