shopping for new bike

[Mark]

At 7:48 AM -0600 3/22/01, Andrus Chesley wrote:

>A substance called NOLOCK is the best I've encountered for aluminum. As >was said early, Neversieze and salt water conditions, etc. doesn't work >very well. NOLOCK is an anti seize compound made for aluminum. In the >Offshore environment I work in, Neversieze an aluminum screw type cover >to it's box and in a year you have to break it apart to get in it.

We use AquaLube for our offshore applications for fasteners and electrical connections. The stuff is like blue chewing gum dissolved in gear oil. After year-long instrument deployments on the bottom, the goo is still there on recovery. Mark B2 A2

[Bogdan Swider]

> . > > Be careful where you apply Never-Seeze or other lubricants that contain > metal > derivitives. Under adverse conditions ( salt water, acid rain, dog piss) > they > can become involved in electrolysis with dissimilar metals resulting in a > white crumbly form of metal salt concrete that will lock everything up > permanently. > -- > bierdo >

Now that's news to me. Here I have anti-seize all over my bike to PREVENT electrolysis. It'll happen on the valve cover bolts if you DON'T put anti-seize on them. It didn't lock up anything permanently instead it destroyed the threads. So far after anti-seize I haven't seen any corrosion. Hmmm.... . I do live in a dry climate but I have taken the bike to Baja a couple of times with no problems. Bogdan

[Dan Oaks]

I mistakenly applied Never-Seeze to a prop on my Yamaha 225 outboard so it would come off easier the next time. Had to cut and grind every bit of it off the stainless spline. Took hours and hours. Won't make that mistake again! I only use Never-Seeze on machinery that is inside my shop and dry. (I wouldn't even trust coolant with that shit) My advice to you is to watch out for tall dogs whenever you park you bike! But then, I'm superstitious. -- bierdo Bogdan Swider wrote:

> > . > > > > Be careful where you apply Never-Seeze or other lubricants that contain > > metal > > derivitives. Under adverse conditions ( salt water, acid rain, dog piss) > > they > > can become involved in electrolysis with dissimilar metals resulting in a > > white crumbly form of metal salt concrete that will lock everything up > > permanently. > > -- > > bierdo > > > Now that's news to me. Here I have anti-seize all over my bike to > PREVENT electrolysis. It'll happen on the valve cover bolts if you DON'T put > anti-seize on them. It didn't lock up anything permanently instead it > destroyed the threads. So far after anti-seize I haven't seen any corrosion. > Hmmm.... . I do live in a dry climate but I have taken the bike to Baja a > couple of times with no problems. Bogdan

[Ted Palmer]

Dan Oaks (bierdo) wrote:

> I mistakenly applied Never-Seeze to a prop on my Yamaha 225 outboard so it > would come off easier the next time. Had to cut and grind every bit of it off > the stainless spline. Took hours and hours. Won't make that mistake again!

[...] Hmmm. Back when I worked in a shop that reconditioned car clutches and heads, we used Never-Seez to lube the diaphragms on the reco'd pressure plates. I guess Never-Seez might be ok where the materials covered are ferrous. Another grease I've heard of that can be used an antiseize is good old graphite grease. Interesting how so-called antisieze products seem to contain components that on their own might be conductive, like the cuprous "aviation" style antiseize, Never-Seez and graphited grease I wonder where galvanic corrosion fits into their formulations. Also interesting is the lack of proliferation of synthetic greases, considering the abundance of synthetic oils these days. Mister_T

[steve pye]

-----Original Message----- From: Peter Alonso To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, March 26, 2001 9:24 PM

>Thanks thats very helpful, what are the significant differences between >these models, if any. > >Thanks again

87' thru 95' ( A1- A9)..... identical 96' thru 01' ( A10- A15).......some changes to the counterbalancer gear, clutch, camshafts. Everything else identical to the earlier A's The 'C' is the European model sold in Canada and Australia ( I think) Check out www.kawasakicanada.com to see the differences between the A and C model. Cheers, Steve Pye