klr600--->650

[Chris Barnes]

As a new owner of a secondhand machine (for 3 months) I've just had a look in line with List instructions--just a few comments: 99 model (manufactured in 98), with some 3,500 miles on it now: 1. Inlets within spec. and even, but on the tight side. Exhausts on the bottom of spec--a very tight 6 thou, but also even. (all suggests no real "wear") 2. Removing the top engine bracket allows you to swing the wiring harness out of the way--its tight with the top cam chain guide tower! 3. I need to watch the exhaust and will wait for ,say, 3 more thousand to monitor CHANGE (it didn't seem worth disturbing it all for a thou). 4. As the exhausts seem to tighten I wonder how they are set in the factory?--It would appear (as inlets are close also, and exhausts are even) that they are set at the bottom end, with wear expected--not the actual case (valve seat recession/wear seems to be the main parameter, not lobe, shim or cam bearing). As its an old, and potentially well developed/proven design, I'm surprised that Kawa don't set them slack, particularly on the exhaust. I wonder how many bikes out there get a proper check--is valve burn out common?--mine had certainly not been apart at the scheduled 600 mile first service--and with all the fiddle you can understand why. Additionally changing/checking at 600 miles is probably too soon for the "lumps" to have worn off , and for the engine to be thermally "exercised". 5. The valve cover bolts are shouldered--doing them up by hand is just about all the gasket compression you are going to get. The 1/8 turn beyond "nipped" is just to stop them backing off. (You are shearing threads in aluminium rather than stretching the bolt). I wonder how engine dynamics affect real clearance--bearing wear, oil film etc---everything is "settled" during checking. I also have to compare the 4 valve set up with automotive--direct acting cams go on forever without the need for adjustment (pre hydraulic)--what is different as its a relatively low reving engine? I don't have a manual--is there a simple guide to cam position at the timing mark i.e. obvious marks on the sprockets--I forgot to look--it was getting late! Not a 2 hour job--more like 3 to 4, particularly removing the old silicone gasket with care. (but should be easier next time). Regards, Chris Barnes

[Ted Palmer]

guppies04@... wrote:

> Was wondering if anyone would know if the rear wheel is > interchangable between the 600 and 650? I have a line on a wrecked > 650 and woulkd love to add the rear disc brake to my trusty 600. Any > thouights appreciated.

I don't know for sure, but I doubt it. It's not just a matter of putting the wheel in the swingarm, the rear caliper has to connect to the swingarm somehow, and you have to connect a master cylinder to the brake pedal somehow and attach the master cylinder and reservior to the frame somehow. I could be done if are good with tools like welders, but if you were then you probably wouldn't need to ask. Mister_T Melbourne Australia