[dsn_klr650] bored carby

[Kurt Simpson]

> I have a quick question that I hope someone will be able to help me

with. Is there some secret trick to removing the front sprocket? I've checked in the service manuals and they refered to older style of sprocket.

> Am I missing something or do I need to just get after it and reef on

it?

> Hope that everyone had a blast on the 4th!

well, yes and no...there is a safety washer just underneath the 27mm nut...you have to use a heavy screwdriver or dull chisel to bend the tabs perfectly flat before reefing on it...the second part is the reefing...w/o an air wrench...you pretty much have to have a partner stepping on the rear brake while you reef with a cheater bar... Kurt

[ATO137528@aol.com]

I change my c/s sprocket on a regular basis. I want to kick the of the ass of the engineer who decided that the two small bolts holding the sprocket to a bracket (as on the older KLR's) be replaced with a TAPERED nut attaching directly onto the shaft from the transmission. The first time I tried to change the sprocket, I had to take the bike to a Kawasaki shop to break the bolt loose. Two guys, a crowbar (to hold the chain), an impact gun, and a bid screwdriver wrestled and sweat for about 30 minutes to get it loose. Subsequently, I have acquired a 1/2" drive ratchet and 27mm socket to change it myself. As I type this, I can see no less than 5 places on my hands where I lost a battle to the nut just yesterday, breaking my ratchet and bleeding all over the right side of the bike. Also ruined a perfectly good screwdriver by using it to hold the rear wheel while I pulled for all I was worth trying to break the bolt. There is NO excuse for making a simple change of sprockets so damn difficult! I won't even discuss the fact that the chain has no master link and requires removal of the chain the "labor intensive" way! I'm on my way to Sears to replace the broken Craftsman 1/2" ratchet, and to Ace Hardware (my source for metric nuts/bolts when things break or fall off) to get a NON-TAPERED nut to replace that crap that came with the bike. Hopefully, my chain will need replacement soon and I can get a replacement with a master-link too. Lamar A14

[Rich Kickbush]

Guys, Use HEAT when you've got a stuck nut like the sprocket nut. A little butune torch is perfect, you'll have it hot enough in about 20 seconds - 1 min. While its hot, spray your favourite lube (I swear by Optipro) on it and watch it disappear up into the threads. Why this works is for the engineers on the list, but my guess is that the different rates of expansion and cooling between the nut and the shaft 'crack' the bond that forms between the two (stopping now, way over my head...) Anyway, from memory, I use a 3/8 wrench after the heat treatment, it's still a sphincter-clencher, but very possible to remove. An impact driver may also help. Good luck! Rich ATO137528@... wrote:

> I change my c/s sprocket on a regular basis. I want to kick the of the ass > of the engineer who decided that the two small bolts holding the sprocket to > a bracket (as on the older KLR's) be replaced with a TAPERED nut attaching > directly onto the shaft from the transmission. The first time I tried to > change the sprocket, I had to take the bike to a Kawasaki shop to break the > bolt loose. Two guys, a crowbar (to hold the chain), an impact gun, and a > bid screwdriver wrestled and sweat for about 30 minutes to get it loose. > Subsequently, I have acquired a 1/2" drive ratchet and 27mm socket to change > it myself. As I type this, I can see no less than 5 places on my hands where > I lost a battle to the nut just yesterday, breaking my ratchet and bleeding > all over the right side of the bike. Also ruined a perfectly good > screwdriver by using it to hold the rear wheel while I pulled for all I was > worth trying to break the bolt. > > There is NO excuse for making a simple change of sprockets so damn difficult! > I won't even discuss the fact that the chain has no master link and requires > removal of the chain the "labor intensive" way! > > I'm on my way to Sears to replace the broken Craftsman 1/2" ratchet, and to > Ace Hardware (my source for metric nuts/bolts when things break or fall off) > to get a NON-TAPERED nut to replace that crap that came with the bike. > Hopefully, my chain will need replacement soon and I can get a replacement > with a master-link too. > > Lamar > A14 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Need a credit card? > Instant Approval and 0% intro APR with Aria! > http://click.egroups.com/1/6034/6/_/911801/_/962805786/ > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

[Dash Weeks]

> > >Dash, you`re right in you needing a larger bore carb for your altitude. If >power is what your after, then you need more air. A really free-breathing >intake would be the first step. If that`s not enough, then go to a larger >bore carb. > If you do a little head shaving, remember, you might condemn your bike to >a diet of premium fuel only, limiting your options when traveling, >especially in the mid-west, which is loaded with methanol at the pumps. and >not always labeled. > >Skip

There's a lot to be learned from my Father In Law..... I just wish he'd visit more often. He's lived in Santa Fe and Albuquerque for a long time.... (meaning at altitude). He's owned many bikes, and like me has to tinker with nearly everything. I told him of my plans to bore the carb. Turns out that he's done dozens of them, off various bikes. For just the reason that I want to... more air. He said that the largest bore diameter that I can get is the diameter of the slide, not quite line to line so perhaps a smidge smaller. He also said that so long as there was nothing in the way (as far as jets go), there is no requirement that the bore be round. HHMM so long as the sides match the diameter of the slide, I can have a "big belly" on the bottom. He said that he's bored carbs 3-4 mm over with no fuel feed problems whatsoever. Can't wait for that carb to come now..... I do plan on porting and polishing the head but that will have to come AFTER my bored carb, as one is easier to do and won't require my bike be in pieces again during the beautiful weather. Perhaps I won't see as big a difference with the stock porting, but.... well...... 10 steps at a time ya know..... LaterZ Dash

[Weaver, Mark]

may i respectfully suggest that you don't tighten the nut up so much next time. then your ratchet is less likely to break. i had fred and his assistant help me get it off the first time, and ever since, i've tightened it firmly, but not excessively. with that lockwasher on there, i think kawi's torque spec is a little on the ridiculous side. that bolt isn't going anywhere if it's reasonably snug and the washer is bent properly. it now takes me about 10 mins to change the sprocket. mw

> -----Original Message----- > From: ATO137528@... [mailto:ATO137528@...] > Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 7:03 AM > To: DAN@...; dSN_klr650@egroups.com > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Front sprocket > > > I change my c/s sprocket on a regular basis. I want to kick > the of the ass > of the engineer who decided that the two small bolts holding > the sprocket to > a bracket (as on the older KLR's) be replaced with a TAPERED > nut attaching > directly onto the shaft from the transmission. The first > time I tried to > change the sprocket, I had to take the bike to a Kawasaki > shop to break the > bolt loose. Two guys, a crowbar (to hold the chain), an > impact gun, and a > bid screwdriver wrestled and sweat for about 30 minutes to > get it loose. > Subsequently, I have acquired a 1/2" drive ratchet and 27mm > socket to change > it myself. As I type this, I can see no less than 5 places > on my hands where > I lost a battle to the nut just yesterday, breaking my > ratchet and bleeding > all over the right side of the bike. Also ruined a perfectly good > screwdriver by using it to hold the rear wheel while I pulled > for all I was > worth trying to break the bolt. > > There is NO excuse for making a simple change of sprockets so > damn difficult! > I won't even discuss the fact that the chain has no master > link and requires > removal of the chain the "labor intensive" way! > > I'm on my way to Sears to replace the broken Craftsman 1/2" > ratchet, and to > Ace Hardware (my source for metric nuts/bolts when things > break or fall off) > to get a NON-TAPERED nut to replace that crap that came with > the bike. > Hopefully, my chain will need replacement soon and I can get > a replacement > with a master-link too. > > Lamar > A14 > > -------------------------------------------------------------- > ---------- > Need a credit card? > Instant Approval and 0% intro APR with Aria! > http://click.egroups.com/1/6034/6/_/911801/_/962805786/ > -------------------------------------------------------------- > ---------- > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > >

[ATO137528@aol.com]

In a message dated 7/5/00 11:05:49 AM Central Daylight Time, richardk@... writes: << An impact driver may also help. >> The "impact" is absorbed by the chain and rubber pads in the read hub. It WILL work, but is not perfect. Don't run out and buy a gun and compressor. LOL Lamar A14

[Peter Dahlheimer, MD]

i dunno if it's recommended or not, but what works for me is to use a socket (1/2" drive) and a LARGE (about 5 feet or so) breaker bar. i sit on the bike, put it in gear, apply the rear brake with my foot and crank the sucker. _pete